NEW ROPE decision down to TWO ropes, help me decide!

Lost gear? Selling? Donating? Questions?

Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl

NEW ROPE decision down to TWO ropes, help me decide!

Postby Andrew » Thu May 31, 2007 1:43 pm

I currently have:

Mammut Galaxy 10.0mm 70m SuperDry age ~5yrs, sheath intact, no falls

I prefer a narrow diameter and a mid-stiffness feel to the rope. I also like to get a Dry Finish as I will use it in wet or snowy conditions from time to time. I've decided to go 60m this time as I dont' need the extra 10m length.

My two choices, unless someone has a better idea:

(1) Mammut Galaxy 10.0mm 60m Superdry Duodess (Orange/blue) 185$
(2) Petzl Zephyr 10.3mm 60m Dry Trio-Safe - non-duodess (Blue) ~185$


I read a review on the Petzl Zephyr and they described the feel of the rope to that of the Mammut Galaxy, which I like. I like the color of the Petzl, it's all blue with the trio-safe markers (middle and 6m from each end). I've never had duodess and not found it much use over having a marker at the centre, so that's no big deal. The galaxy says it is orange and blue, which I find to be unattractive for me.

Any thoughts? They both seem similar.

Andrew
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby chossmonkey » Thu May 31, 2007 5:58 pm

Orange and blue is super sexy!


How are you going to be using the rope? If you are going to be leading on gear or otherwise still not falling I'd go with the skinnier one. But if you will be hanging on it or TRing a lot I'd go with the extra beef.

I find the bi-color is nice when sport climbing as I always switch the ends after each go and it makes it easy to remember which end you are using and which one your partner is. I also find marked on middle marks to wear off really quick.
If women ruled the world there would be no wars, just be a bunch of jealous countries not talking to each other.
User avatar
chossmonkey
 
Posts: 1243
Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 4:11 pm
Location: Running a muck.

Postby granitoid » Thu May 31, 2007 6:21 pm

I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.
User avatar
granitoid
 
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 11:59 am

Postby Andrew » Thu May 31, 2007 9:03 pm

Could you take a nice photo of the Galaxy in Orange/blue for me and post it or PM it to me?

Andrew.

granitoid wrote:I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby granite_grrl » Fri Jun 01, 2007 7:09 am

granitoid wrote:I bought a 60 m Mammut Galaxy last summer (orange/blue). My friend AJ was able to get the same rope from MEC in green and blue to avoid confusion. It is my first duodess rope and will definitely get another.

Both of us have noted that the ropes don't seem to have aged that well, with what seems like a lot of fraying of the sheath. I definitely did more climbing last year than usual, so it might just be the extra miles.

I would also say that the rope is a little stiffer than previous ropes I've owned, which can be good or bad, depending on your preference. AJ thinks it is too heavy, but he has little girl arms.


I wish I remember which Mammut rope it was that I bought a couple years ago from MEC. I was looking for a 10mm, enjoyed my last Mammut so picked up another. Got it home and when I opened it and looked at the Mammut tag it was a 10.2mm instead of a 10mm. Minimal use, but the sheath is frayed a lot. It has also seems to have fattened up quite a bit, and is a lot heavier than I like.

I'm not seeing on the MEC website now, but it was the one that came with the free rope bag a couple of years ago (and the rope bag sucks btw).
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Postby Fred » Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:15 am

Andrew,

you should really be buying a rope based on your needs not the color it comes in. Dynamic load, weight, stretch, length, duodess are all far more important. Then you live with the color.

As for the Mammut Galaxy... I am amazed to hear someone say they like the feel of this rope. To me it's like an old hemp cable.

I'd strongly consider the Beal, Edelrid and Maxim ropes Andrew. The Petzel ropes seem to be way over priced.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Richard Eh! » Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:32 am

The Mammut Galaxies do get terrible fuzzy and consequently heavy when wet or snowy or icy after a year or so, but the Mammut Flash 10.5 Duodess Dry (at $210) is an excellent rope that stands up very well over the years and is definitely my favourite. Mine has seen four years of winter and summer use and is still in really good shape and not the least fuzzy. But, then, it always travels in my rope bag and gets a light shampoo once a year.
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
Richard Eh!
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 5:05 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby *Chris* » Fri Jun 01, 2007 9:51 am

Richard Eh! wrote:... and gets a light shampoo once a year

I also recommend giving your hair a light shampoo once a year. As for ropes... the petzl does seem expensive.
User avatar
*Chris*
 
Posts: 848
Joined: Wed Apr 19, 2006 2:32 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby Adam » Fri Jun 01, 2007 10:27 am

Richard Eh! wrote:The Mammut Galaxies do get terrible fuzzy and consequently heavy when wet or snowy or icy after a year or so, but the Mammut Flash 10.5 Duodess Dry (at $210) is an excellent rope that stands up very well over the years and is definitely my favourite. Mine has seen four years of winter and summer use and is still in really good shape and not the least fuzzy. But, then, it always travels in my rope bag and gets a light shampoo once a year.


my flash is SUPER fat after 4 years of use (haven't led outdoors on it for a couple years, just toproping/rapping/cleaning etc)...

but definitely a tough rope.
User avatar
Adam
 
Posts: 1105
Joined: Mon Apr 02, 2007 8:39 pm

Postby granitoid » Fri Jun 01, 2007 10:44 am

No can do on the photo for at least a week, as the rope is in Calgary and I am flying to Halifax this aft.
User avatar
granitoid
 
Posts: 21
Joined: Tue May 10, 2005 11:59 am

Postby Shawn B » Fri Jun 01, 2007 12:43 pm

2nd what Richard said. Galaxy = bad rope. Flash = good (although it is rather stout at 10.5 but is a great lasting workhorse). Duodess worth every penny. I have a Beal Flyer 10.2 which I like as well although it doesn't come in duodess. Haven't played with the new Petzl ropes yet so don't know how they handle and since they are new no one knows how they will last. Although I think it is their ropes that the sheath makes up 1/3rd of the thickness of the rope so it should last well. I find they are pricey too. Any particular reason you want a skinnier rope? If no, you can't go wrong with the Flash 10.5 duodess.
Shawn B
 
Posts: 439
Joined: Tue Apr 19, 2005 1:36 pm

Postby Richard Eh! » Sat Jun 02, 2007 4:03 pm

Yeah Chris, a little pricey, but then, everything about my climbing "hangs" on my rope (pardon the pun) so iI think it's definitely worth it.
I wouldn't buy a Lombourghini and put it on CTC tires either....
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
Richard Eh!
 
Posts: 158
Joined: Sat Jan 08, 2005 5:05 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby Matt Peck » Sun Jun 03, 2007 12:38 pm

Andrew, man, Seriously. Save the dry rope for winter. It'll be almost no good to you if you use it on rock. Also, Mammut cords suck. Possible exception being the flash. The sheath fuzzes and wears out super quick. I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord. The petzl ropes are like all gear european- sexy and expensive. Stick it to em by buying a cheaper cord. They do look nice though. screw the triosafe marking. I made my own with five minutes and a sharpie, and it damn sure didn't cost me that much. Duodess is great. Don't get a 10mm or less if you are planning to do ANY topping on it. Sub 10.3 lines are fast, and wear out too quickly if not used for leading. I've had a eldrid livewire for 2 or three ropes now, and it's been a bomber cord for all purpose use. Little heavy but super tough, and a really good hand.
You can't take the sky from me.
User avatar
Matt Peck
 
Posts: 574
Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2004 2:47 pm
Location: Nova Scotia

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Jun 04, 2007 7:35 am

So this weekend I got to use one of those Petzl ropes, trad climbing at the Gunks. It was a ~9.8mm 70m. Nice feel to it, at least I liked it. But it didn't feel like it had too much strech (and I didn't do any falling on it), so I checked out the specs this morning. Its impact force was a little high, but still lower than something like the Flash (I couldn't find a rope comparison chart either....wah!!!). Its listed elongation was also more than than some ropes, even though it didn't feel like it.

This was a new rope so I can't comment on how well it'll last, but I did enjoy using it. If it stands up to extend use and abuse then I would really consider getting one.
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON

Postby Andrew » Mon Jun 04, 2007 8:46 am

I couldn't resist...

I ran Pirelli Winter and All Season tires on my old 91 Golf Coupe. Best thing you could do for it aside from a suspension upgrade.

Any car will run better with high quality tires and any rock climbing system will be safer with a higher quality rope at the core, as long as the climbers are doing their jobs correctly :)


Richard Eh! wrote:Yeah Chris, a little pricey, but then, everything about my climbing "hangs" on my rope (pardon the pun) so iI think it's definitely worth it.
I wouldn't buy a Lombourghini and put it on CTC tires either....
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby mathieu » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:39 am

Matt Peck wrote: I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord.


Hmmm, now that I think about it, I do have a pink rope with purple polkadot on it.
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby dcentral » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:06 pm

mathieu wrote:
Matt Peck wrote: I second fred's statement about disregarding the color. I'd run a pink polkadot line if it was a good cord.


Hmmm, now that I think about it, I do have a pink rope with purple polkadot on it.


Srsly though. What's the point in doing it if you don't look good doing it :)
User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby dcentral » Mon Jun 04, 2007 10:13 pm

I was looking at the petzl ropes this weekend. The guy in the shop said he climbed on the rope and said it slide through the gear really well.

For rope that has the same diameter/specs, the petzls it feels thinner
User avatar
dcentral
 
Posts: 653
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 10:00 pm
Location: Victoria, BC

Postby Andrew » Wed Jun 06, 2007 2:41 pm

I plan on getting the Petzl. I have no use for Duodess, but the trio-safe markers would be perfect for me.

I wish MEC.ca didn't have them on B/O.
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby Stan » Wed Jun 06, 2007 3:59 pm

Stan
 
Posts: 84
Joined: Sun Feb 26, 2006 4:09 pm
Location: Fredericton

Postby Andrew » Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:46 pm

Everything they are saying about the Zephr is what I'm looking for in a rope. Hopefully I can order it soon.

Andrew
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby mathieu » Thu Jun 07, 2007 9:44 am

Andrew wrote:Everything they are saying about the Zephr is what I'm looking for in a rope. Hopefully I can order it soon.

Andrew


I hope so too
mathieu
 
Posts: 412
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:56 am
Location: Alberta

Postby Fred » Thu Jun 07, 2007 6:47 pm

bag
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
User avatar
Fred
Site Admin
 
Posts: 3140
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 12:30 am
Location: Fredericton, NB

Postby Andrew » Sun Jun 10, 2007 9:32 am

Rope's in stock now and ordered. Hopefully I'll have somewhere to climb by the time it arrives :)
User avatar
Andrew
 
Posts: 551
Joined: Fri Oct 22, 2004 10:54 am
Location: Quispamsis

Postby martha » Sun Jun 10, 2007 1:43 pm

Andrew wrote:Rope's in stock now and ordered. Hopefully I'll have somewhere to climb by the time it arrives :)


There are more places around than welsford to climb at. St. Andrews is awesome, Kamouraska is a short 5 hours from you. Clifton, Bar Harbour and many other places Stateside are only 3 hours away!!!!

You have LOTS of places to climb with your new rope.
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman

If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
martha
 
Posts: 2105
Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
Location: planning the next climbing trip....

Postby granite_grrl » Mon Jun 11, 2007 7:26 am

martha wrote:Clifton, Bar Harbour and many other places Stateside are only 3 hours away!!!!


Really? And here I was thinking that I was doing pretty good with places like the Gunks only 6 hours away. :lol:
User avatar
granite_grrl
 
Posts: 925
Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 2:56 pm
Location: St. Catharines, ON


Return to Gear

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 12 guests

cron