Climb Eastern Canada

by **Fred** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 9:51 pm

Richard and I were out to Parlee today (Friday) and conditions were terrible at best. The road is un-passable without 4x4 and major water holes at end of clear-cut we opted to walk the rest of the way. There is already a surprising amount of snow up in there. Wind was blowing, snow was falling... it's very much winter in Parlee Brook. Road is not plowed through blueberry fields and drifts have already started so walk in is 1h20 min without 4x4 and who knows for how long. The drive through the clear-cut was extremely muddy with hidden sink holes not yet frozen.

We only managed to TR All The Kings Horses below big rap tree. Last 10ft and first 10ft no ice at all. The remainder of the climb was a thin coat of ice over not yet frozen muck and rocks.

stay tuned for photos

Joe, please copy this report to Ice Climbing in NB. I only posted this info here in case anyone reads this tonight and wants to go out tomorrow.

by **Fred** » Fri Dec 08, 2006 10:42 pm

http://www.beta-source.com/temp/parlee_condition.wmv

by **Joe** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 9:06 am

Gotta love video for a conditions report! Looked like a good day for Goretex. Blue piller appeared TRable. It might be good for next weekend, hopefully.

by **chossmonkey** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 10:48 am

Joe wrote:Gotta love video for a conditions report! Looked like a good day for Goretex. Blue piller appeared TRable. It might be good for next weekend, hopefully.

Do you think it is going to stay cold enough?

The weather reports don't look encouraging. :evil:

by **martha** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 11:13 am

The great thing about Parlee Brook is that it is actually a very special place.... it feels like you are on the other side of the planet... and it stays about 5 degrees colder than sussex/moncton. so even if it is +2 out, Parlee is probably still freezing up nicely.

by **Fred** » Mon Dec 11, 2006 7:16 pm

Joe wrote:Blue piller appeared TRable.

The video was very deceiving. Blue Pillar was definitely not climbable but might be good by this weekend for TR. The slabs were almost bare and the verts were about 1" thin. I think the major problem is the ground and moss is not frozen yet. Nothing is bonding and barely thick enough to hold it's own weight let alone weight of a climber. Proved to be a problem when I had to drytool conglomerate for 15' to get out of the gully.

As far as cold goes... It was Mega winter in there folks. Tons of snow, fierce wind, and COLD. Very mild in town 20min away and then complete opposite up in Parlee.

by **Stef** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:02 pm

Anyone going it this weekend? Any bets on conditions?

by **Fred** » Thu Dec 14, 2006 6:07 pm

Stef wrote:Anyone going it this weekend? Any bets on conditions?

$10 says kings horses TR top to bottom all ice except the top out

by **chossmonkey** » Fri Dec 15, 2006 7:58 am

Fred wrote:
Stef wrote:Anyone going it this weekend? Any bets on conditions?

$10 says kings horses TR top to bottom all ice except the top out

Hmmmm.

I wonder if $10 will cover the gas if I drive up from Halifax and there is nothing to climb?

by **chossmonkey** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 9:21 am

It looks like the weather is going to cool off a little this week. Is there any word on how the ice faired over the warm spell?

If there is decent ice I would be really interested in coming up from Hali on Thurs. or Fri. I just need to find some wheels.

by **Graham** » Sun Dec 17, 2006 3:52 pm

Hey, could someone give me the directions to Parlee Brook from Fredericton? I have the directions from whe nI get there, but I don't know how to get to Sussex corner/Lisson Settlement. A few friends and I are going to test our metel on Wednesday and Thursday and they would be quite displeased with me if I got lost on the ay there. Muchly appreciated.

by **martha** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 10:09 am

Hi Graham,

I'll get one of the boys to post the directions for you. I'm not too good at that.. haha.

But just in case you don't know (I've known people who ended up either stranded or couldn't climb) you need two 60M ropes to rap into the gorge if you plan on leading out. There is a tree with some slings/webbing and rap rings on it that we use to get down.

Take some pictures and lets us know the conditions. The temps are looking great this week! yay!!!!!!!!!!!

by **Fred** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:51 pm

martha wrote:you need two 60M ropes to rap into the gorge

50's will reach

martha wrote:There is a tree with some slings/webbing and rap rings on it that we use to get down.

not there anymore

by **martha** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:05 pm

I wasn't sure if the webbing was there or not. I guess that it wasn't replaced after someone took it last year. Shawn, that was your stuff wasn't it?

I guess we should do that. I can offer up some rap rings and webbing when I get out.

by **martha** » Mon Dec 18, 2006 4:06 pm

Fred wrote:
martha wrote:you need two 60M ropes to rap into the gorge

50's will reach

Will they with no snow in the gully? I wasn't sure about that, which is why I said 60's. I know that 50's will reach when rapping off the back wall area though.....but I wasn't sure about the rap tree location.

Climb Eastern Canada

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