Katahdin Beta

[Graham]

Anyone know any good places to get some route beta for Katahdin, or have any personal recomendations? I'm looking for something 5.6-5.8ish. Thanks.

[Fred]

search for Armadilo Route

[mathieu]

look up http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/Nort ... _Katahdin/

The Chimney route is basically a scramble with one pitch of 5th class. The armadillo route has turned back a few people, i think its 5.9 or so.

Remember your dealing with alpine rock, this isn't clean or solid rock by any means, the technical grade is the least of your worries.

[john]

To climb in katahdin you need to check in with the rangers and they will ask you to show them your gear and require you to have certain items; check the website or call the park to get the list. They will also likely ask you about the routes you have done, experience etc. It is a pain that they are anal. It comes from a long history of problems. One ranger died year ago rescuing a stranded hiker/climber I believe. The rules of the park are not that of many other national or state parks. Just a heads up so you don't waste your time go unprepared and get turned back by the rangers. They will also not let you go if the weather is at all questionable.

[Graham]

Right on thanks. From what I've been reading, it seems like I have to go through quite an inquisition to get in, but I think it's probably worth it. Thanks for the advice, with any luck I'm heading up there some time in the next couple weeks.

[john]

hahhahahahhahhahaha

Here is some more info from NEclimbs

went up there a couple summers ago to do it. i called ahead to see if there was still a gear check like i had heard there used to be. whoever i talked to at roaring brook said no.
so i didn't take a #4 cam, trying to save weight. when i got to chimney pond, the ranger said "see you in the morning for gear check", and said i had to have a #4 cam to get on the armadillo route. my partner and i pointed out that the first people to climb it undoubtedly did not have any such thing. the ranger was not open to negotiation on this point. so, we climbed pamolo 4 instead, which was interesting but not the route we came to climb. also, it should go without saying, but take a helmet, because that's the other show stopper as far as required gear. good luck. it's certainly a beautiful place.

[Graham]

wow, I wonder if he'll follow you up as well to make sure you put it the right crack. Good thing to know though, thanks.

[mike]

No worries about him following you... me and a friend passed the gear check for Pamolo 4 a few years back.
We made it to the top without taking a single piece of gear, rope, climbing shoes etc. out of our packs.
It was nice to know that we had all the goddies to get er done if need be though.

Have a nice climb!
Mike

[Thirty33]

There will be snow on the route this time of year. They probably won't let you on it.