Gargoyle rebolted

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Gargoyle rebolted

Postby mick » Thu Jan 05, 2012 6:37 pm

All the bolts including the chains on Gargoyle at Main Face were rebolted using CNS's brand new DeWalt 32v hammer drill on Tuesday Jan 3rd 2012. The bolts were over 19 years old and severely rusted, with most of them loose to the touch. Some of the old bolts are still there (minus hangers) because I didn't have a prybar at the time. I intend on pulling them out and epoxying the holes over eventually. Also, I took the liberty of brushing the horrendous slab at the top a little bit - sorry if that offends anyone to not have to pull a 5.12 crux through a wet and dirty lichenfest.

Didn't get a chance to get on the climb myself but it's truly a beautiful line and I hope this allows more people to enjoy it.

mick
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Re: Gargoyle rebolted

Postby chameleon » Fri Jan 06, 2012 9:11 am

Awesome, thanks Mick.
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Re: Gargoyle rebolted

Postby Zamboni » Fri Jan 06, 2012 11:47 am

I didn't use a pry bar when I re-bolted some eagle's nest lines. I used a cutting wheel on cordless drill and cut the bolts off clean. Doesn't damage any of the rock around the bolt, also allows you to hammered the bolt back in a few mm. You end up with less area to apoxy back over.
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Re: Gargoyle rebolted

Postby granite_grrl » Tue Jan 10, 2012 9:33 pm

You said the bolts were over 19 years old and in pretty bad condition. Was it stainless or not stainless that were originally used?
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Re: Gargoyle rebolted

Postby mick » Thu Jan 12, 2012 4:29 pm

The bolts appeared to be non-stainless. The hangers were stainless and looked to be in reasonable shape but likely had suffered galvanic corrosion so they were replaced too.
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Re: Gargoyle rebolted

Postby Nate » Fri Feb 03, 2012 9:33 am

Actually, the (more noble) stainless steel hangers would have been preserved at the expense of the accelerated corrosion of the (less noble) bolts. Though I can imagine they were both in rough shape, good job of the re-bolt and clean up dude.

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