Tool Upgrade. (AKA, the talk about everything thread)

[Matt Peck]

Ok, so we are all aware of the Viper/Quark debate. I personally used to be a big fan of the Quarks, after swinging Pulsars for a few years they felt to be of a similar swing, but bought a pair of Vipers because the price was right on the swap. No leashes, but with fangs. I waited five and a half months to use them and BAM. Awesome. After climbing for several years on a pair of doglegged pulsars (fine tools in their own right), it was a bit of a radical step jumping full on into the leashless domain, but once you get over the initial shock, they are the frekkin sheite. I find that I actually got more pumped when I climbed with my leashes on than with the new tools. And the ability to shoulder holster a tool when traversing is brilliant. I do have some concern about dropping a tool, as I lost both when I took a whipper a while ago, but otherwise I have nothing but good to say.
Leashes certainly still have their place. On longer leads where endurance is a factor (and a dropped tool means mortal peril) they are certainly still fantastic weapons in the arsenal, but I do not think that they should be the be all and end all of modern climbing. As the trend shows, there is a greater and greater tendancy towards leashless climbing. It allows freer movement and arguably better style, and I must say it has given me added confidence in my climbing.
The Fangs fit my gloved hands perfectly, and give me excellent support while hanging from my tools. I do find that when transitioning to a lower angle slab from vertical, the added bulk of the fangs occasionally causes swingus interruptus, but this is fairly rare. The major disadvantage to the fangs is the inability to clip into the bottom of the shaft and hang in some situations. (looping a biner over just doesn't provide the same peace of mind).
I had the opportunity to experiment breifly with the new Viper "bump" attachment, and liked the concept. I find when matching tools that the shaft above the handle is very slick, and without taping them up this can lead to an unnerving slide for your matching hand. The bump adds security, but is too small and pointed for gloved hands, and tends to bite into your pinkys. Otherwise, a great idea.
So that was a bit of a diatribe, but I guess I just wanted to get the opinions out there and see what I stirred up.

M@

[martha]

I still love the Quarks. end of story.

- the bump would work with gloves if you were just wearing the thin gloves that mixed climbers use. But with bulky gloves that we all want for warmth on ice in NB, I can see that it wouldn't work as well.

[mathieu]

....as I lost both when I took a whipper a while ago,

you've been climbing with a certain geologist I see

Leashes certainly still have their place. On longer leads where endurance is a factor (and a dropped tool means mortal peril) they are certainly still fantastic weapons in the arsenal

(you said arse, ),

but I do not think that they should be the be all and end all of modern climbing. As the trend shows, there is a greater and greater tendancy towards leashless climbing. It allows freer movement and arguably better style, ...
M@

You lost me there buddy. I don't see more people climbing leasheless, just on the mixte stuff and short hard climbs. But I don't climb hard so maybe i just don't climb along side people with leashless tools. For myself what I noticed is that the cliper leashes are the flowers, that was enought to impress me.

[Stef]

....as I lost both when I took a whipper a while ago,

you've been climbing with a certain geologist I see

I am pretty sure Matt learned that "technique" from you, eh Matt? Or Maybe we should just blame the Pulsars

Cheers,

Stef

[mathieu]

I am pretty sure Matt learned that "technique" from you, eh Matt? Or Maybe we should just blame the Pulsars

Cheers,

Stef

Huhmmm that is an interesting theory, didn't you have pulsars as well Stef?!? Maybe that's why they discontinued them.

Its definatly not a technique i'm fond of. "Thye leader musn't falleth", seems like we've thrown that commandement out the window.

[martha]

Its definatly not a technique i'm fond of. "Thye leader musn't falleth", seems like we've thrown that commandement out the window.

yeah, I was quite sure that commandment 1 and 3 were both 'never fall ice climbing'.

[Ropeguy]

Vipers SUCK!! I actually gave up using them and went for Trango Capt hooks......I have used the vipers 3 or 4 times and would take my old Aliens over them anyday..............Buy the way Capt hooks are on sale at Mountain Magic for $129.00 each with leashes, My DMM rebels are still not available so the hooks will get me buy until they arrive....

Vipers look awsome in the garbage can with the rest of the junk!!

[Fred]

I disagree. The Vipers are a sweet technical tool for steep ice. They do require some technique though to get the swing right.

perhaps you aren't a technical ice climber teasing

[Ropeguy]

I agree only with the clearence compared to the DMM's..Climbed with a friend and his thought's were the same on the vipers, His Grievels seem to have more weight to the head and placed much easier than the bd's......I don't have the patience to keep using them, I think its better to just keep buying different brands with the hope that someday I will make it to the top.......... and if I don't I can simply blame the tools.......

[martha]

if you are used to swinging DMM's then the Quarks will fit your swing perfectly. The vipers swing a lot different and take adjustment from a DMM tool. That is why I love the Quarks so much as I don't have to adjust my swing nearly as much.

Yup, if you keep trying Ropeguy, one day you'll make it to the top of the ice. just keep at 'er.