sharpening

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Postby Matt Peck » Tue Dec 20, 2005 4:27 pm

What the hell. Sorry Mike, but every time I look at your reply above, it wigs me out.

Other that the aforementioned suggestions- I would recommend that you project yourself into life as a crampon and visualize how you would like to be.

but your crampons are your own. Feel em, live em, let them be an extension of yourself. Mould them to your desire.


What the hell was that?!? Too many Brownies man, I've got enough on my plate without visiting my karma as a crampon. Dude!
You can't take the sky from me.
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Postby Richard Eh! » Tue Dec 20, 2005 5:02 pm

Yeah, I know they were like that when you tried mine, I hadn't "modified' them yet. They were twice as much work to get out as to place then! A whole new world now.... :D
If'n ya think ya can, ya can! If'n ya think ya can't, yer right....!
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Postby mike » Fri Dec 30, 2005 4:06 pm

Sorry for the wig inducement Matt- please note time of post for some clarity.

Mike :shock:
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Postby Guillaume C. » Tue Jan 17, 2006 12:47 am

Hello ladies and gentlemen

First time I see this forum, but seem interesting! and sry for my poor english, i'm from Québec

I've done ice climbing only one time but i think i can answer your question;P

first off, there have been lot of thing completly wrong said in the thread, so i'll try to replace everything so no one scrap their axe or crampons!

Btw I studied in mechanical engeneering but i'm now full-time armorer (medieval armour and blades), you can see some of my stuff at http://www.armoury.org

Thing you DONT want to do:

Annealing: Softening the steel by heating it red hot and letting cool VERY slowly (something like 24hour)

Normalizing: Softening the steel by heating it red hot and letting cool in air

Quenching: Heating to red hot then quenching in proper fluid (water,oil,liquid salt. depending on alloys)

***Tempering: Reducing the hardness (After the steel being heat red-hot and quenched) to the desirable hardness, all your tools are tempered(unless this is alloy that are quite hard even as-rolled), to something like 40-45 HRc (knife and file are higher...55-60) for most alloy this is done my heating the steel to something like 600 F.

If you are starting to temper your piece, the steel will show color (wich is a good way to judge temperature as every color correspond to a temp.) but you dont want to see color. With most grinding method this will not be a problem for light sharpening, if you can hold your hand on it, this will not be too hot.

However, for most *sharpening* (not shaping) a bench grinder is most likely to remove metal too quickly to get uniform surface, unless you have a belt grinder with flat portion. File are precise and well enought stock removing capacity for good sharpening. Water-cooled grinder probably have very fine grit making them good for sharpening, however you are quite limited in the area you can reach

If you want to do a really good job, follow the file by sand paper backed by a flat surface, going from 100 to 600 grit with 2-3 step between , you can get an edge that will be shaving sharp. but i doubt this would be of any use on ice

of course this is a very basic explanation, if you have any question i'll do my best to help you on this subject....as for other subject, i hope you will answer my tons of questions:P

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