by Joe » Tue Dec 20, 2005 11:15 am
"SharkTeeth" originally applied to the left side of Walton Glen Falls. When I first top-roped it in 1994, it was not completely filled-in. I had a very hard time on it, and thought it was way harder than WI5, so the shakey "6" label. But since then, I've climbed it fully formed, and it's a 4+. I had renamed it in the guide as "Center Face", one of those Kelleher FA's that he doesn't want to name.
Regarding hard routes, the two hardest lead so far are Outta Control, and Uncomfortably Numb, at St. Martins. I didn't include "Numb" in the guide yet, but will today. It's 5+, with a good roof. Also, Nautical Disaster is pretty stinkin hard at the start. In my book, a 5+ must be >60m of dead vertical, or shorter with overhanging sections. With the possible exception of Grand Manan, NB doesn't offer much long vertical ice. I think the overhanging stuff has the potential for new hard routes.