For those interested in ice climbing, yes, we are getting there.
Deep Cove: just patches of ice on the rock as of Dec. 26/04
Gilbraltar: forming well but brittle and wet as of Dec. 31/04
Flintstone: forming well but wet and not filled in fully as of Dec. 31/04; the back wall area looks leadable, though (WI2?)
Truro: don't know; hope to get to Victoria Falls tomorrow or Monday.
Fundy Coast: Hall's Harbour, Baxter's Harbour, Canada Creek, etc, : don't know, haven't been there this season, but doubt anything would be in yet, given conditions elsewhere
CNS will be sponsoring a weekly weekend Ice Day again this year. It is just a matter of time, perhaps next weekend or the weekend after.
Check this thread for information, and please add info you have.
Peter McVey
Nova Scotia Ice Season
Moderators: chossmonkey, Dom, granite_grrl, peter, Climb Nova Scotia, Matt Peck
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Possible new areas
by C.Eager » Sun Jan 02, 2005 11:26 am
Since last year I have spent a lot of time kayaking and scouting rivers throughout the province. Much of my time was spent out in the Wentworth/Parrsboro area. A number of rivers including the Folly, Moose , Great Village, and McAlsee Brook where I have seen the begginings of Ice as well as countless others have great potential. Another potentially good spot is the Gold River just past Chester where there is a gorge just off the highway. Many of these spots have waterfalls on the rivers themselves as well as steep embankments with rocky outcrops or gorge walls. Hopefully ths these areas may turn out to be worthwhile in months to come.
- C.Eager
Nova Scotia Ice Season
by peter » Tue Jan 04, 2005 2:29 pm
Thanks Chris. All worth checking out.
Conditions Update:
Truro - Victoria Park: sufficient ice on Jan. 3/04 for Thom and I to climb; perhaps we were the first off the ground in NS this year?!?!; that being said, the ice requires another week or so for a group larger than two; the left side is sufficiently "in" to play on top-rope, but the central gap we can normally stem and climb is not yet filled in, and the area to its right is "close" to being ready, but not quite there, so we stayed off it.
Other Quarry Lines: I have turned up two more quarries with ice forming, both within one hour of Halifax. Will keep y'all posted. Of course, there are "access issues", and a certain amount of stealth is required. (And CNS does not operate any sponsored events in private quarries.)
Peter
Conditions Update:
Truro - Victoria Park: sufficient ice on Jan. 3/04 for Thom and I to climb; perhaps we were the first off the ground in NS this year?!?!; that being said, the ice requires another week or so for a group larger than two; the left side is sufficiently "in" to play on top-rope, but the central gap we can normally stem and climb is not yet filled in, and the area to its right is "close" to being ready, but not quite there, so we stayed off it.
Other Quarry Lines: I have turned up two more quarries with ice forming, both within one hour of Halifax. Will keep y'all posted. Of course, there are "access issues", and a certain amount of stealth is required. (And CNS does not operate any sponsored events in private quarries.)
Peter
- peter
Nova Scotia Ice Season
by Peter » Wed Jan 05, 2005 4:43 pm
CNS does organize "ice days" each weekend through the eight or so weeks of the ice season. These are not instructional courses per se, but completely novice folks do come out each week. This is one of the goals of the event, as CNS is mandated to encourage the sport of climbing.
The practical goal is to provide enough bodies at a given location on a given day for a group with mixed skills to safely pursue their shared interest in ice climbing in a cost-effective way.
No experience is necessary, but a complete absence of climbing experience (ie no gym/rock experience) would be a deficit. There are real risks in ice climbing (particularly from ice or rock fall), but we each do our best to keep each other safe as members of a climbing community.
There is no instructor or program, and everyone is responsible for their own safety and risk assessment. The format is generally top-roping at known locations, with more experienced ice climbers setting up the anchors, demonstrating climbing and belaying. Everyone there that day take turns climbing on multiple top-ropes, with routes of different difficulty.
Encouragement, advice, and pointers are offered as desired. Locations are up to 2 hours from Halifax, so it is a full day affair. We generally have about 8 - 10 people, sometimes more initially and less as the season wears on. Probably one-half to two-thirds have ice climbed before, but most do not have their own gear.
CNS owns ropes, helmets, crampons (two pairs) and ice axes (one pair). MEC rents some gear as well (call MEC for info, but I think it is boots?). Individuals attending often have extra gear, and lend gear as needed (particularly ice tools and boots/crampons, as in "I wear 10.5, trade ya").
The CNS crampons fit most rigid/steel shank hiking boots (Charlet Moser crampons with alpine style bindings), and many plastic ski boots (Black Diamond crampons with step-in style bindings).
The bottom line is yes, please keep you eyes here for information, probably starting the weekend of January 15/16, and for sure, everyone is welcome. I hope to scout some more locations this weekend, and post more info by the middle of next week.
Again, you are responsible for your own safety, and for dressing to stay warm, watered and fed. We generally car pool and pitch in for gas. The atmosphere is geared toward climbing until you can't climb anymore or the tide comes in, whichever comes first.
Come early, come often and bring a friend.
Peter McVey (CNS Board Member and Ice Days Organizer)
email me at mcveypc@gov.ns.ca for more information.
The practical goal is to provide enough bodies at a given location on a given day for a group with mixed skills to safely pursue their shared interest in ice climbing in a cost-effective way.
No experience is necessary, but a complete absence of climbing experience (ie no gym/rock experience) would be a deficit. There are real risks in ice climbing (particularly from ice or rock fall), but we each do our best to keep each other safe as members of a climbing community.
There is no instructor or program, and everyone is responsible for their own safety and risk assessment. The format is generally top-roping at known locations, with more experienced ice climbers setting up the anchors, demonstrating climbing and belaying. Everyone there that day take turns climbing on multiple top-ropes, with routes of different difficulty.
Encouragement, advice, and pointers are offered as desired. Locations are up to 2 hours from Halifax, so it is a full day affair. We generally have about 8 - 10 people, sometimes more initially and less as the season wears on. Probably one-half to two-thirds have ice climbed before, but most do not have their own gear.
CNS owns ropes, helmets, crampons (two pairs) and ice axes (one pair). MEC rents some gear as well (call MEC for info, but I think it is boots?). Individuals attending often have extra gear, and lend gear as needed (particularly ice tools and boots/crampons, as in "I wear 10.5, trade ya").
The CNS crampons fit most rigid/steel shank hiking boots (Charlet Moser crampons with alpine style bindings), and many plastic ski boots (Black Diamond crampons with step-in style bindings).
The bottom line is yes, please keep you eyes here for information, probably starting the weekend of January 15/16, and for sure, everyone is welcome. I hope to scout some more locations this weekend, and post more info by the middle of next week.
Again, you are responsible for your own safety, and for dressing to stay warm, watered and fed. We generally car pool and pitch in for gas. The atmosphere is geared toward climbing until you can't climb anymore or the tide comes in, whichever comes first.
Come early, come often and bring a friend.
Peter McVey (CNS Board Member and Ice Days Organizer)
email me at mcveypc@gov.ns.ca for more information.
- Peter
by Fred » Wed Jan 05, 2005 8:55 pm
Wow! I wish I were in NS but with the ice that we have in NB. I remember reading about CNS ice days last year and thinking to myself "now that sounds like a wicked time". So I offered my services and vehicle to try and round-up a bunch of climbers here in NB. But... elas! No one was interested in the idea. So if any of you NS climbers want to come climb some bad ass flows in NB just drop me line and you'll have your own personal guide, lift to the crag and place to crash if you need one.
I may be coming to Halifax on the 22 and 23rd of January if anyone is interested in heading out. If there is ice to be climbed that is.
I may be coming to Halifax on the 22 and 23rd of January if anyone is interested in heading out. If there is ice to be climbed that is.
I want to go to hell... there's probably lots of rock to climb there.
-
Fred - Site Admin
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- Location: Fredericton, NB
picking more than your nose
by seanT » Thu Jan 06, 2005 1:58 pm
Its thursday, its below zero, bring your tool(s) and work on the forearm pump tonight at Ground Zero.
SeanT
SeanT
- seanT
by The Teth » Thu Jan 06, 2005 2:21 pm
Here is some advice for people inexperienced with outdoor activity in low temps.
Stay dry and stay warm. When you climb you generate a lot more heat than when you are standing around. You are likely to sweat. Don’t ware cotton against your skin if you can help it. Cotton absorbs your sweat and holds it against your skin. Ware a wicking fabric such as nylon or silk. Ware plenty of layers so that you can add or remove clothing to maintain a comfortable temp. (This helps to avoid sweating.) It is best for your middle layers to be of a wicking fabric as well. You should have a coat which is wind and water proof with enough range of movement to climb. A second warmer coat is useful to keep you warm when belaying or just standing around.
Ideal: Silk longjohns, nylon pants, (possibly some sort of waterproof over-pant) nylon t-shirt, nylon long-sleeve shirt, fleece vest, wool sweater (or another fleece layer), Gore-texl coat, and down filled overcoat. Nylon sock liners, nylon or wool winter socks. Nylon glove liners and waterproof gloves.
If you do not have the proper equipment, I would suggest going to MEC and getting a pair of sock liners ($8 - $10), silk long-johns ($39), a nylon t-shirt ($29), and glove liners ($10). The innermost layers are the most important, and you can use the same gear when shovelling your driveway or whatever else you do this winter. I would get the long sleeve nylon shirt ($29 - $37) as well. All this stuff is good for winter bouldering also.
You want your outer layer to be wind and water proof while allowing full range of movement. Ideally a Gore-tex shell, but they are very expensive. Not having a Gore-tex coat I have been using a leather bomber jacket. (Worked very well for me.) A wind breaker or rain coat might work as an outer shell, but may not breath well.
A helmet is essential for Ice climbing. (Ice will fall on your head at some point, even if you are just standing around.) If you have one for snowboarding or some other sport you might want to bring it incase there are not enough climbing helmets to go around.
Hiking boats with a lip at front and back should hold the crampons. I started by waring the CNS Alpine crampons over shoes, but I would not suggest this. It is not good to have that much flexibility in the ankle when ice climbing.
Your other option is to dress inappropriately and spend a lot of time outdoors so that you acclimatise to the cold. This is what I did when I started winter bouldering and ice climbing. The drawback is that when your body gets that cold you have to urinate every five minutes.
That brings me to my final point. Stay hydrated and eat lots. Hot tea in a thermos will keep you warm and hydrated. Pack food. Your body will burn a lot of calories when cold, and when you run out of calories you will get cold fast. (Chocolate gets damn hard at -10, so break it into bight-size pieces ahead of time.)
Well, that is probably enough rambling for now.
The Teth
Stay dry and stay warm. When you climb you generate a lot more heat than when you are standing around. You are likely to sweat. Don’t ware cotton against your skin if you can help it. Cotton absorbs your sweat and holds it against your skin. Ware a wicking fabric such as nylon or silk. Ware plenty of layers so that you can add or remove clothing to maintain a comfortable temp. (This helps to avoid sweating.) It is best for your middle layers to be of a wicking fabric as well. You should have a coat which is wind and water proof with enough range of movement to climb. A second warmer coat is useful to keep you warm when belaying or just standing around.
Ideal: Silk longjohns, nylon pants, (possibly some sort of waterproof over-pant) nylon t-shirt, nylon long-sleeve shirt, fleece vest, wool sweater (or another fleece layer), Gore-texl coat, and down filled overcoat. Nylon sock liners, nylon or wool winter socks. Nylon glove liners and waterproof gloves.
If you do not have the proper equipment, I would suggest going to MEC and getting a pair of sock liners ($8 - $10), silk long-johns ($39), a nylon t-shirt ($29), and glove liners ($10). The innermost layers are the most important, and you can use the same gear when shovelling your driveway or whatever else you do this winter. I would get the long sleeve nylon shirt ($29 - $37) as well. All this stuff is good for winter bouldering also.
You want your outer layer to be wind and water proof while allowing full range of movement. Ideally a Gore-tex shell, but they are very expensive. Not having a Gore-tex coat I have been using a leather bomber jacket. (Worked very well for me.) A wind breaker or rain coat might work as an outer shell, but may not breath well.
A helmet is essential for Ice climbing. (Ice will fall on your head at some point, even if you are just standing around.) If you have one for snowboarding or some other sport you might want to bring it incase there are not enough climbing helmets to go around.
Hiking boats with a lip at front and back should hold the crampons. I started by waring the CNS Alpine crampons over shoes, but I would not suggest this. It is not good to have that much flexibility in the ankle when ice climbing.
Your other option is to dress inappropriately and spend a lot of time outdoors so that you acclimatise to the cold. This is what I did when I started winter bouldering and ice climbing. The drawback is that when your body gets that cold you have to urinate every five minutes.
That brings me to my final point. Stay hydrated and eat lots. Hot tea in a thermos will keep you warm and hydrated. Pack food. Your body will burn a lot of calories when cold, and when you run out of calories you will get cold fast. (Chocolate gets damn hard at -10, so break it into bight-size pieces ahead of time.)
Well, that is probably enough rambling for now.
The Teth
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The Teth - Posts: 453
- Joined: Wed Oct 27, 2004 1:01 pm
- Location: Halifax
Mr. Dress Up
by Peter » Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:37 am
Please note: all clothes are optional for Stoner-sponsored ice climbing events. I prefer just a harness to stay warm. 
- Peter
Peter Heaters
by Peter » Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:16 pm
I hear that the original Seinfeld episode on "shrinkage" was going to be about ice climbing, but not enough people got the joke, so George instead "just out of the pool". "You mean it shrinks?!"
Your icon makes me thirsty.
Kelly, you around to climb sooner, rather than later?
Peter
Your icon makes me thirsty.
Kelly, you around to climb sooner, rather than later?
Peter
- Peter
by The Mitt » Fri Jan 07, 2005 3:58 pm
I have done so little climbing in the past year I got old and fat. To answer your question I will. I have to say my 2 fav spots are deep cove and moose river. Have you looked at deep cove lately?
Mitt (AKA Sean K)
Mitt (AKA Sean K)
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The Mitt - Posts: 847
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- Location: Prospect NS
by Stevo » Sat Jan 08, 2005 3:46 pm
All this talk of silk and nylon underwear is enough to send the pulse racing... no wonder McVey is so happy when the ice is forming! Do you get any of your ice climbing apparel from Victoria Secret by any chance...
- Stevo
- Posts: 314
- Joined: Tue Dec 14, 2004 10:22 am
- Location: St. Margarets Bay
I'm In!
by jhousser » Sat Jan 08, 2005 9:36 pm
Hi Folks,
I'm new to these boards, and to climbing in general in Nova Scotia. I'm in my second year at Acadia, but last summer I worked at a summer camp and got involved with the rock climbing program, and fell in love with climbing, and can't get enough.
I'm hoping to learn to lead this winter in the gyms, but am also interested in trying some ice climbing while I'm here, and ultimately finding some real rocks here this spring. I climb with a few friends from Acadia, and I'm sure a few of them might also be interested in some of these trips. If there is any sort of "list" per say for people interested, my name can surely go down on it.
I'm stoked about finding this board, and hopfully finding some more climbing opportunities out here now!
John
I'm new to these boards, and to climbing in general in Nova Scotia. I'm in my second year at Acadia, but last summer I worked at a summer camp and got involved with the rock climbing program, and fell in love with climbing, and can't get enough.
I'm hoping to learn to lead this winter in the gyms, but am also interested in trying some ice climbing while I'm here, and ultimately finding some real rocks here this spring. I climb with a few friends from Acadia, and I'm sure a few of them might also be interested in some of these trips. If there is any sort of "list" per say for people interested, my name can surely go down on it.
I'm stoked about finding this board, and hopfully finding some more climbing opportunities out here now!
John
-
jhousser - Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:13 pm
- Location: Wolfville, NS / Squamish, BC (Summer)
Lace and Icenic
by Peter » Sun Jan 09, 2005 9:51 am
Stevo: Ya, but my dominant colour is blue, and Victoria only comes in black, red and white.
Kelly: I have never been to Moose River. I would go any weekend. I also have Friday January 21/05 off work, if an overnight is required. Interested? You are no fatter or older than me. I turned 43 over Xmas.
Peter
Kelly: I have never been to Moose River. I would go any weekend. I also have Friday January 21/05 off work, if an overnight is required. Interested? You are no fatter or older than me. I turned 43 over Xmas.
Peter
- Peter
I'm In
by Peter » Sun Jan 09, 2005 9:56 am
John:
An Ice Days trip to one of Hall's Harbour, Canada Creek, Baxter's Harbour sounds perfect for you and friends, are all within an hour of Acadia. Bring a crowd, and we can meet up somewhere like the Tim Horton's in downtown Kentville (central square). I will confirm in advance if we are planning to go to the Valley. It all depends on the tidal predictions that day, which we know well in advance. If there is a weekend in particular folks are interested in, email me at work at mcveypc@gov.ns.ca and we will make it happen.
Peter
An Ice Days trip to one of Hall's Harbour, Canada Creek, Baxter's Harbour sounds perfect for you and friends, are all within an hour of Acadia. Bring a crowd, and we can meet up somewhere like the Tim Horton's in downtown Kentville (central square). I will confirm in advance if we are planning to go to the Valley. It all depends on the tidal predictions that day, which we know well in advance. If there is a weekend in particular folks are interested in, email me at work at mcveypc@gov.ns.ca and we will make it happen.
Peter
- Peter
by martha » Sun Jan 09, 2005 7:21 pm
Why don't you guys come to Parlee Brook? 200 ft of ice in grades 2+ up to grade 4. lots to climb and a big adventure day with a long approach and the whole deal.
Don't forget, you can't get out unless you climb out. ...well, you can, but the hike is a b*tch.
Peter, anytime you want to come up here on a weekend or whenever, you are welcome.
Cara
Don't forget, you can't get out unless you climb out. ...well, you can, but the hike is a b*tch.
Peter, anytime you want to come up here on a weekend or whenever, you are welcome.
Cara
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman
If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
- martha
- Posts: 2105
- Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
- Location: planning the next climbing trip....
Parlee Brook
by jhousser » Sun Jan 09, 2005 11:28 pm
Well I don't know where Parlee Brook is, or what Ice Climbing grades are yet, but I'll come 
-
jhousser - Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:13 pm
- Location: Wolfville, NS / Squamish, BC (Summer)
Parlee Brook
by Peter » Mon Jan 10, 2005 6:58 pm
I know several itching to go to Parlee Brook. We will wait for a "bad tides" weekend, and do it as a long day trip. Peter
- Peter
Ice Climbing Days
by jhousser » Mon Jan 10, 2005 7:11 pm
Peter,
That all sounds great, I have one friend for sure who would be in with me, and could possibly find a few other willing bodies around here. We're pretty new to the whole climbing world, but anxious to get as much as we can out of it. Thanks for all the help and info, looking forward to trying this out!
John
That all sounds great, I have one friend for sure who would be in with me, and could possibly find a few other willing bodies around here. We're pretty new to the whole climbing world, but anxious to get as much as we can out of it. Thanks for all the help and info, looking forward to trying this out!
John
-
jhousser - Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:13 pm
- Location: Wolfville, NS / Squamish, BC (Summer)
by martha » Mon Jan 10, 2005 10:38 pm
John,
Parlee is a pretty intense place to go if you don't have much for climbing experience. Make sure you are comfortable with long rappels, anchoring yourself safely and the idea of climbing being the only way out. Best to have an experienced climber with you. one for one.
So far the road is still plowed to just past the blueberry fields so the hike is minimal, maybe 25 min. Once they stop plowing, it is a long haul in, and makes for a long hard day. Be prepared to hike in and out by headlamp.
It kicks ass in there!! Peter, let us know when you are coming up and we'll meet you there for some climbing!
WOO HOO!!!!
cara
Parlee is a pretty intense place to go if you don't have much for climbing experience. Make sure you are comfortable with long rappels, anchoring yourself safely and the idea of climbing being the only way out. Best to have an experienced climber with you. one for one.
So far the road is still plowed to just past the blueberry fields so the hike is minimal, maybe 25 min. Once they stop plowing, it is a long haul in, and makes for a long hard day. Be prepared to hike in and out by headlamp.
It kicks ass in there!! Peter, let us know when you are coming up and we'll meet you there for some climbing!
WOO HOO!!!!
cara
The phrase "working mother" is redundant. ~Jane Sellman
If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
If a husband speaks in the woods, and his wife is not there to hear him...is he still wrong?
- martha
- Posts: 2105
- Joined: Wed Oct 20, 2004 9:40 am
- Location: planning the next climbing trip....
Yo John Housser
by Peter » Sat Jan 15, 2005 12:51 pm
Let us know if we should meet you tomorrow on the way to Hall's Harbour. See my email to you today.
Peter
Peter
- Peter
Sorry about the late reply, still interested
by jhousser » Sun Jan 16, 2005 2:04 pm
Hey Peter,
Thanks for the e-mail sorry I didn't get back sooner, but with the start of this semester we're all finding ourselves a bit overwhelmed. Obviously we won't be coming out today, but are extreemly interested in making it out on one of the trips.
As for our skill and experience, most of my friends are fairly new to the while scene, but I have significant experience from working at an outdoor adventure camp this summer (in Squamish, BC of all the places!). I worked several months helping to develop the climbing program, and while I am only climbing low 10s on top-rope, I have lots of experience with anchor systems, rescue techniques, all that safety type stuff and basically anything to do with climbing. I'm just really hoping to get more actual climbing experience myself, hoping to get out and starting to lead SOON!!! and really interested in trying ice climbing.
It appears to me from the research I've been doing that ice climbing is somewhat more accessible out here, I don't know if this is true or not but I've been having a really tough time finding out much about the crags being developed around here.
The next thing I guess we need to worry about is the gear we need for coming ice climbing. I have a harness and lots of random bits and pieces, but I guess we'll need to look at what we need in terms of boots and whatever.
We are all really new to this so for safety's sake we better not assume we know or have anything we're just super enthusiastic about getting out!!
Hope to meet up with some of you soon, thanks everyone for all the help,
John and Friends
Thanks for the e-mail sorry I didn't get back sooner, but with the start of this semester we're all finding ourselves a bit overwhelmed. Obviously we won't be coming out today, but are extreemly interested in making it out on one of the trips.
As for our skill and experience, most of my friends are fairly new to the while scene, but I have significant experience from working at an outdoor adventure camp this summer (in Squamish, BC of all the places!). I worked several months helping to develop the climbing program, and while I am only climbing low 10s on top-rope, I have lots of experience with anchor systems, rescue techniques, all that safety type stuff and basically anything to do with climbing. I'm just really hoping to get more actual climbing experience myself, hoping to get out and starting to lead SOON!!! and really interested in trying ice climbing.
It appears to me from the research I've been doing that ice climbing is somewhat more accessible out here, I don't know if this is true or not but I've been having a really tough time finding out much about the crags being developed around here.
The next thing I guess we need to worry about is the gear we need for coming ice climbing. I have a harness and lots of random bits and pieces, but I guess we'll need to look at what we need in terms of boots and whatever.
We are all really new to this so for safety's sake we better not assume we know or have anything
we're just super enthusiastic about getting out!!
Hope to meet up with some of you soon, thanks everyone for all the help,
John and Friends
-
jhousser - Posts: 20
- Joined: Fri Jan 07, 2005 11:13 pm
- Location: Wolfville, NS / Squamish, BC (Summer)
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