Goals

[granite_grrl]

The outside season is comming to a close around here. Sure, there will be trips to the south and heading out locally on warmer days, but many evenings will be spent climbing on my home wall.

It made me think of where I would like to be next year when the full rock seasson starts again. I'd like to get stronger, really work on my power endurance and figure out how to more effeciently climb roofs and overhangs (I've been going to the Gunks and following up my boyfriend on some 5.10's....a 5.10 roof at the Gunks kicks my ass almost every time).

I'd really like to continue improving on my gear climbing next summer, getting solid on 5.9's and I'm trying to think of some easy 5.10s to break into. I feel that my head is in a pretty good place now...my plan is to push the body hoping to get into these higher grades.

Has anyone else started thinking about what they're going to do over the winter to improve their climbing next summer? Any specific climbs people are getting excited for?

[Fred]

I'm busy trying to shake off some tendonitis so that's about my only goal for now. Get rid of it. I'm worried about swinging those tools soon and locking off. Does wonders for the elbow.

[ben smith]

fred dude start doing pushups like crazy. it sounds weird but i was out at satillite boulder and suddenly my arm seized and wouldn't move. I was bummed out because we were going to corn and bung after and i thought my session was done but after 20-30 pushups i was pulling hard again. its sweet elbow tendonitis gone in seconds

[Mountain_Marc]

I'm busy trying to shake off some tendonitis so that's about my only goal for now. Get rid of it. I'm worried about swinging those tools soon and locking off. Does wonders for the elbow.

Hey Fred, where is your pain located? What have you been doing to treat it? I'm trying to shake off some elbow pain as well. I've been doing alot of stretching, icing with rubber band exercises (as recommended by an OT) and that seems to work but as soon as I start doing lockoffs on ice tools (no leashes) with figure fours, it seems to aggravate it.

[Fred]

it's the standard climbers elbow pain. forarm attachment to elbow. I had it a few years back and it lasted several months. Then it didn't come back until this year. Now I'm fighting it but seems to be getting better. One day it will just be gone. But by then I'll have to train from zero.

[Pierre]

My goal for next year or sometime in the future is to learn how to trad climb.

Anyone have any advice on learning how to trad? Where to? Courses? Books?

[vbpad]

best thing to do is go out with people that have been doing it for a couple years we're more than happy to help out.

[martha]

My goal for next year or sometime in the future is to learn how to trad climb.

Anyone have any advice on learning how to trad? Where to? Courses? Books?

Yup ,I agree with VbPad. apprenticeship is the way to go. Just let us know when you are coming to welsford and we'd be happy to help you out.

Second for a really solid leader for up to a year to get the hang of gear placements. You learn a lot taking out others gear. Then when you are very competent in the land of gear placements and getting them in there properly and safely...then start leading.

[granite_grrl]

You know I should add that one of my goals over the winter will be to become comfortable with falling. Its not that I don't trust the bolts or my gear....I just hate the idea of falling.

I have to drive a distance to get to a gym that I'll be able to lead in, but if I can get it through my head that falling isn't all that bad it'll be worth it.

[martha]

As for my goals this winter to get in shape for next climbing season...

Well a great start will be when the baby arrives. Then next will be shedding the extra pounds and getting used going to the crag with the little in tow and still getting lots of climbing in.

I hope that I don't lose my lead head once the baby is here. Though I kinda feel more confident in my abilities in pretty much everything right now. I guess that is part of what I'm going through...so hopefully that confidence will follow through to the climbing and I can get back on the rock and sharpe end where I left off before I was pregnant!

[vbpad]

my goal this winter is to train hard enough to takle a 5.10 come the spring i've noticed lots of improvment from the gym glad i'm in freddy.

[martha]

VBPad, you can easily get on a 5.10. it is all in your head, not in your climbing. You are strong at the gym. Just keep at the foot work, and do TONS and TONS of laps so that your endurance is there. That should avoid you getting too pumped while hanging out and placing gear!

[vbpad]

yeah i think that was my biggest problem last summer

[Ulysse]

Oh so many things I want to climb next summer
The Free version of the Italian Pillar on the South Tower Minaret (Bugs)
Wild fire on Wide Awake Tower (bugs)
University Wall (Squamish)
the Calling (Squamish)
Astroman (Yosemite)
The Rostrum (Yosemite)

But the one I really want to do is in the Bugs. The Italian pillar went free last year (ED1 22-24P 5.11D) the first time and I dont belive it has seen a second free ascent. email me if intersted.

[Scooter]

my goal is to climb v11 by summer

[PeterA]

by summer I hope to be solid on 5.12 and I hope to be close to 5.13

[granite_grrl]

yeah, my goal list has totally changed since last July. I was doing really good till that point though.

We'll see what it's like when I get back to climbing again.

[The Mitt]

My goal is to have as much fun climbing as I can, and spend some more wicked time on the road climbing and drinking beer with excellent people. Oh and finally drink 20 beer in one night (i think with practice I will get there). Hopefully within all of this my climbing will improve as well.

Mitt

[Andrew]

I had hoped to get out a few times before it started snowing again

But really, I wanted to climb more 10's and work on 11's and 12's. I managed to get on a few a couple times and it felt great.

Thanks Fred and Adam, etc.

[martha]

My goal is to get some kick ass ice climbing in this season and leave papa home with baby cause he doesn't like ice anyways. Maybe I'll get on the sharp end of some of that again too. yeeeehawwwwwwwwww

Oh yes and do some fun/hard leads in sport and trad on our trip to Vegas in the spring.

I'll be in perfect climbing shape just in time to get pregnant again....

[The Teth]

My Goals are humble:

1) To get out trad, aid, or ice climbing at least once a month.

2) Acclimatize to higher elevations and climb something over 25m. After the climbing I did this summer I am having no trouble up to 50 feet (15m), but am still getting sketched out above that. I want to be able to climb a full pitch feeling relaxed and enjoying myself, rather than wishing I were somewhere else.

3) Aid climb some stuff which can’t easily be free climbed. Maybe a system of really thin cracks or something.

4) Aid climb faster. Lots of room for improvement here.

5) Do more hooking on aid lead. I have been using my cap hooks, but my BD cliffhanger has yet to see action on lead.

6) Learn to clean while ascending, including traversing routes.

[Diamox]

Goals are so subjective. I'd really love to Climb again - shoulder injury in the spring still coming around. At least I don't need surgery. Doing aided pull-ups at present, ROM, etc.... I'm hoping to get on some ice by march when I end up in Saint John for a month. Lead one WI2-3. I think I'll have my hands full with that much. Climb 5.9 by the summer on sport lead, 5.7 trad and V3 again.

2011- solid 5.10 sport and trad, V5, WI4, A1. That's all I ever want to be able to do.

good luck to everyone with their goals.

Cheers,

[The Mitt]

I think I am well on my way to achieving mine

Mitt

[chossmonkey]

I think I am well on my way to achieving mine

Mitt

The beer drinking or the climbing?

[*Chris*]

Since the new year is upon us I thought I'd share a short list of my climbing related goals:

1- Climb smart, safe, and stay injury free. I'll challenge everyone else to do the same.
2- To be solid on gear at 5.8 and climb most of the Welsford classics up to this grade.
3- Redpoint all of Sunnyside's 5.10's.
4- To finally make it to Dover.
5- To finally make it to Greenlaw.
6- To clean aid lines more efficiently.
7- Get back into setting routes at the UNB gym. The people have spoken... and I must answer their call.
8- Pack out more litter from the woods than I bring in... every day that I climb. This is a challenge to others as well.

Looking back, I'd say that I exceeded all of my personal goals and benchmarks for 07. I probably climbed more days last year than all my previous years combined. I pushed my limits, became more proficient at the sharp end, and had solid type 1 fun. Anyone else care to share their thoughts?

[Climbing4life]

I hope to do my first 5.7 or 5.8 sport route (with my new draws , woot!) and would like to be up at 5.10 on top rope

[granite_grrl]

Holey. This thread really puts things into perspective, doesn't it?

Did better last year than I ever thought I could. The lead head still needs a lot of work, but I just want to get out and climb as much this coming year as I did last summer/fall.

[chossmonkey]

Good thread revival.

For this winter I'm hoping to put up some more mixed lines at our local seeping chosspile. I'd also like to get a few WI5's under my belt this winter. Getting back to Pont Rouge this season when it is in good shape is on the list as well.

As to rock, it is still way to early in the year to be thinking of that. Though wrapping up my "project" route from last year will be high on the list.