Spring Destinations

[Scooter]

I've been thinking more and more lately about doing a trip in the spring. Maybe solo, maybe with a partner if interested. Anyhow, I am looking for some advice or input on some climbing areas that are good to visit in the spring, preferably in North America. I would like to visit for a month or so, probably may-june/july. Looking for mostly bouldering but would like to have the option of sport if possible. Any suggestions?????

[Fred]

Red River Gorge Kentucky for sport climbing. Anytime after mid April.

[mike walsh]

niagara glen if your wanna try some seriously featured limestone and sandstone bouldering. I found it to be death slopey and super weird pockets, but if you like that it's friggen wicked (and the easiest approach possible, giant steps path)

[dcentral]

Come West.

We are probably going to be doing a week of climbing in late april some where. Thinking prolly Skaha or Smith Rock.

[Scooter]

dave we'll have to keep in touch
ive read alot about red river gorge and i am definately interested. jeremy said he was there and loved it. ill keep that in mind

[Mountain_Marc]

Red River Gorge Kentucky for sport climbing. Anytime after mid April.

I think you can go earlier Fred. We've been to New River Gorge a bunch of times in mid-march and the climbing was fine and I think Red River Gorge is a bit warmer.

Anyone up for a Southern Rock trip Easter long weekend? April 14-17 or longer. I'm game!

[Fred]

dave we'll have to keep in touch
ive read alot about red river gorge and i am definately interested. jeremy said he was there and loved it. ill keep that in mind

Jeremy was at New River Gorge in West Virgina with me 4 years ago. I don't think he's been to Kentucky. New River is also a great place but Kentucky beats it hands down.

If you go to West Virginia forget the gorge and just go to Summersville Lake if you like sport climbing.

[Scooter]

thats right he did say new river gorge
but i did read about kentucky in a gripped mag, and it seems promising...i got the 2 confused

[dcentral]

I'm hoping there will be atleast 5 or 6 people going. We might be taking a couple of vechicals etc. Who knows at this point but if you got to vancouver we could always pick you up on the way throught. Cause we have to take the bloody ferry to get off here anyway.

[Scooter]

ill look into tickets and talk to you on msn

[Fred]

dcentral,

I'm hoping to come to the Island next summer. Any good climbing out there? I hear stories of overhanging bolted jug hauls.

[dcentral]

Ahhh Don't come to Victoria if you want to climb. In Strathcona park there is a pretty good spot I have been told but I haven't made it there to climb yet. All around for a good guide book, with lots of different areas, etc Nanaimo is your best bet. I've been to a few places there, I wish I could go up there more.

Also Horne Lake is supposed to have good climbs but very little to warm up on. I might be wrong thought. The area has sensitive or non-sensitive access issues depending on who you talk to.I've heard different things from different people who all haven't been their recently.

For the most part everything locally is pretty crappy. Mt. Wells is the only spot worth going too but I wouldn't make a special trip there. The rest is short moss covered, crappy rock, rusyt looking bolts and small. I've gone on explorations a few times and everytime I go I'm glad I didn't bother to take my gear in with me.

I would like people to prove me wrong, but I don't think I am.

There is so much Alpine to be had thought.

[Fred]

I've heard Horn Lake is superb. That's what I had in mind. How difficult are you talking about when you say there is nothing to warm-up on?

[granite_grrl]

niagara glen if your wanna try some seriously featured limestone and sandstone bouldering. I found it to be death slopey and super weird pockets, but if you like that it's friggen wicked (and the easiest approach possible, giant steps path)

Bleh.....bad bad bad idea!!!!!

Winter.....nice on a sunny day
Fall....prime time
Summer.....hot, humid and slimey
Spring.....humid and slimey, with the ground being one giant mud hole

Not to mention no places to camp and you have to deal with Niagara Falls.

Scooter, any reason it has to be the spring?? If so, I'd try Joe's Valley, Utah for bouldering. Sandstone, free camping, not too far to head up to Salt Lake City for sport climbing. I was there in April and it was still a little chilly, but not bad (rad friction, yo!). There's also some places in Colorado on your drive out there or your drive back that you could hit up (not sure of the camping scean).

If you're looking at other times of year then other places are in their prime.

Plan and dream, so many amazing places out there!

[martha]

Vegas would be primo that time of year too. If it was early spring especially. Red Rocks would be stellar. Loads of great sport, and you are close to bishop, Yosemite, Utah, Owens River, etc etc.

Tons of climbing to be done in that neck of the woods.

[Pierre]

I was in Nanaimo this past summer, did a little climbing at Nanaimo River and I think Holmes Rock both are very small crags but fun. Drove past the impressive Horne lake cliffs to go caving ( must do if on the island ). I believe the cliffs are on private property and it offically remains closed to climbing..

The rock in Nanaimo river is conglomerate - which made for crimpy hand holds
but wicked nubbins for foot holds.

[Scooter]

it doesnt exactly have to be spring, it would be summer time too. but fall and winter is out of the question due to school. thanks for all your suggestions. I got lots to read up on

[dcentral]

Yeah there's a couple of good areas. THere's this spot on the other side of the Nanaimo river called the Darkside. It's got some really cool routes and neat features. It's supposed to be a little harder then the guidebook says. They weren't finished when the guidebook was published.

If you are only going to be here for a few days you'd probably get the most out of spending your time in Nanaimo.

The story I've heard about Horne Lake is that access is through private land. But the land owners in the area can't make up their minds whether to allow climbing or not. So you can still climb there it just has to be kept to a low profile. That's why there is no guidebook, except for a miniguide published in Climbing magzine a long time ago. I also think this is why there is not a lot of easier routes, as people just develop the plum lines. Although I don't know how up todate this info is. I was talking to someone recently and they said Horne Lake is a really nice spot but I didn't have time to get details out of him.

If you are going to climb there you'd definietly want someone to show you around.

[Fred]

stop talking about all these great climbing spots. I just messed my pants.

[Isomer]

Horne Lake is closed officially, but people apparently still climb there. The fact that it is closed makes it difficult, if not impossible, to get any type of guidebook info.

If you think high 5.11s or low 5.12s is a warm-up, then it is THE sport place for you in BC.

[Fred]

Horne Lake is closed officially, but people apparently still climb there. The fact that it is closed makes it difficult, if not impossible, to get any type of guidebook info.

If you think high 5.11s or low 5.12s is a warm-up, then it is THE sport place for you in BC.

I'd warm up on easy 11 if it's west cost 11

[ben smith]

fontain bleu fontain bleu fontain bleu!!!! are you bailing dude? its boulding heaven and the birthplace of baguettes (i think?) how can you top that

[Scooter]

im not bailing you were saying squamish!??!
i'm down for font but not going by myself
lets doooo it

[cooper]

ben wat is it with u and baguettes??
is that all u ever eat or sumthin ???
-Ryan

[Scooter]

you obviously dont know ben

so how is font in the spring time anyway? fred youve been right?

[zig]

FONTAINEBLEAU

[kate]

Font in the Spring would be ideal. we visited once during the insane killer heatwave summer and it was still sweet. it is in France, after all. how could it ever be bad??

[Fred]

you obviously dont know ben

so how is font in the spring time anyway? fred youve been right?

It's good. In April it was warm enough to wear shorts when the sun was out. I didn't enjoy myself as much as I could have because I was dealing with a shoulder injury.

[zack]

In Strathcona park there is a pretty good spot I have been told but I haven't made it there to climb yet

I was just out there this past summer
pretty sweet
I would go back for sure

[dcentral]

Yeah it's huge park. I tried to make it too the top of Mt. Albert Edward near Mt. Washington, but got turned around 1.5 km from the top.