bridgetown

[Scooter]

I was just on Zigs site killing time and i came across some new pics of brodgetown. Whats going on with the access to that place? Are we allowed to check it out or is it still off limits? Anyway, the boulders look sick. Looks like there still needs to be some cleanin'.

[dcentral]

http://www.climbeasterncanada.com/viewt ... bridgetown

[sgt.global]

Hi, I am sorry about the time it has taken to get the area ready. Things have been going really well with landowners and I would like to start inviting more people to come down. I could really use some help with cleaning and establishing new problems and trails. there are currently around 50 problems cleaned but there are still about 150 more to go. If you would like to come down please email me at zagnut_77@hotmail.com.

[Fred]

I got to try some of those lines and they are pretty sweet.

try

Libertée V5
Slacker V4
La Dalle V1

[zig]

don't forget "The Monument"!!! (see previous news for photo of highball)
it goes boys!

[martha]

Yup!!! The routes are stellar! All different types of climbing. Fred gets his feast on overhangs and so on and I get mine on crimpy balancy faces and slabs.

[Fred]

don't forget "The Monument"!!! (see previous news for photo of highball)
it goes boys!

You can have that crazy nightmare. I jumped off halfway up and bottomed out with a MONDO. I can't imagine falling on the top out. Sick! Nice send Nick S. and Zig What does it go at V6? and the top out is the crux right?

[zig]

you don't fall from the top. not an option.

[dquinn]

When falling is no longer an option you are free soloing not bouldering. Where do you draw the line? Well, when falling means serious injury or death, that sounds like a good place. One of these days, someone is going to get ruined on one of these "high ball" problems.

[dquinn]

crazy bastards.

[Fred]

I don't think you would get seriously injured or die falling off the monument. It's just scary high. The forest floor is well padded and there are no rocks or stumps (I think). You would just likely bottom out and then land on your butt or side. I suspect the worse that would happen is getting a pair of soiled undies.

[Eager]

soloing/highballing are almost the same. There are easy solos and easy highballs, and there are hard solo's and hard highballs. I guess the difference is when soloing there usually isn't any risk assesment along the lines of falling, such as If I do fall I might land here, or ricochet here, you have made the decision that you will not fall unless a physical crux is low on the route in question and worthy of fall protection. Highballs can be just as dangerous however you have made an assesment, and know there is the potential for falling,you have considered the implications of a fall as well as attempting to protect yourself as best you can in the avent of a fall. However once the "point of no return" has been reached, either in the form of a physical or mental crux the same frame of mind "I will not fall " is true to both soloing and highballing. Both are dangerous and could be life threatning, but are also extremely gratifying forms of climbing. Just because one person views a boulder problem as a highball doesn't mean another person sees it that way. For example Exciter on Dover Island is a high boulder problem however in the avent of a fall you aren't likely to be seriously injured in my opinion not highball. On the other hand Fear Facter on Dover Island is a high boulder problem which in the avent of a fall due to the nature of it may have serious consequences, this problem in my opinion would be highball but not soloing because you have assesed the potential of the fall. Personally I like High Boulder problems because there are so many more factors involved other than just the climbing, it requires that you have plan of attack, which is true about soloing as well but it probably doesn't stress the potential for a fall as much. One last thing is that soloing is usually done at a level well below the climbers physical abilities to perform moves, whereas some highballs may sometimes be closer to the top of what the climber is capable of. Recently however soloing has moved into this realm of extremely difficult climbing but you would be hard pressed to find someone who would solo a route at the top end of what thety are capable of. It is all what your are comfortable with. I hope this answers some questions, But I assume no responsability for anyone who reads this and decides highballing or soloing is cool and injures or kills themselves. If you decide you are capable of something make sure you know what you're getting yourself into before you step up to bat. And lastly don't make jugdments on problems somebody did because you see them as dangerous, you'll go a lot further in climbing if you keep an open mind of what is possible.

[jeremy]

Anyone read the many stories about john yablonski "yabo" solos. one time while in joshua tree he couldn't find a climbing partner so he decided to solo this 5.11 crack alongside the main hiking trail. Thinking someone would walk by, see him climbing alone and ask him to partner up. After passing the "falling is not a option" level he gets pumped skitches out and falls away from the rock backwards. turing in the air he manages to grab the top of a small nearby tree. the tree bends over to the ground and he lets go at the perfect time to land softly on his feet. he looks up at astonished hikers who witnessed the whole thing and he said the only appropriate thing "hey wanta do a route".

jeremy

[martha]

the Huber brothers are soloing 5.13's. there are a lot of hard men/women out there who solo very very hard routes. Are they at the edge of their ability? I don't know really, but 5.13 is pretty hard!

[Eager]

Certainly, Alex Huber has done some amazing solo's, multipitch 5.13's and a 5.14a sport route, which I believe to date are probably two of the most difficult and bold ascents ever. But if you are talking absolute physical limits, the Huber's both hike 5.13 multipitch on El Cap, and Alex Huber was at one point working La Rambla which is now one of the hardest sport routes in the world. For him to solo a 5.14 which he has climbed probably multiple times is in ways like climbing a number grade below our own respective limits. Of course you need to take into account that the risk of error probably goes up with the difficulty in climbing. Just goes to show what is possible if you are willing to push yourself.

[Eager]

Oh and as far as lots of people soloing hard 5.13 I don't think you'd see that at the crag on a daily basis, maybe 5.6

[Fred]

Derick Smith on second ascent of "Libertée" V5

[Eager]

Awesome problem Fred!

[Fred]

Awesome problem Fred!

did you send it?

[Scooter]

anyone from halifax want to head up to Bridgetown this sunday? I can help out with gas and I got a brush?!

[Eager]

I linked everything except the first move after the start. Awesome prob it's got a tensiony sit start, balancy reach, and a dyno, as well as crimpers, underclings, pinches, slopers and a uninique hold as well as good feet. Total package, Like super classic Stoked! As far as the rest of the area is concerned, I'm without words! Thanks to Derek, Sarah and Eve for giving the Tour.

[Fred]

Derick and Jeremy should get credit for that problem. I simply stole the FA. sorry Jeremy.

[jeremy]

where is "jones not home" pictured on zig's site? Looks good, grade?
I'll be impressed when someone sends that project by the barbed wire...

jeremy

[zig]

come out Sunday and you shall see...

[Scooter]

zig you have any room? mind if i tag along?

[jeremy]

can't come, parents visiting maybe this winter will be as nice as the last 2 days and there will many more trips.

jeremy

[jeremy]

did anyone end up going to bridgetown last weekend?