Trad and bouldering

[neutralcypruss]

Hey all i was born in nova scotia but have been away for a number of years .. I will be moving to nova scotia within the next year and a half...
i am triing to prepare my self by getting to know some of the community i already knmow granite girl met her here in ont.. rebbeca sais there is alot of climbing down home so if you would let me know where any way on with my questions 1st i would like to know more about boulderfest planning on coming 2nd is there any trad climbing in nova scotia ie..multipitch or single pitch or small cragging..

[Zamboni]

There is a load of bouldering here in halifax, and mostly single pitch trad routs, "VERY LITTLE" sport routs here.

Check out the following.

http://ns.bouldering.ca/frameAREAS.html

http://www.climbnovascotia.ca/ (Beta, then links )

Hope that helps.

Conan.

[The Mitt]

I have a feeling there will be many more sport routes come summer. I have been looking at least 4 lines that can be done in the 5.10 and under range. There is alot of single pitch trad routes in the Halifax region and loads of potential for multi-pitch trad/sport in Cape Breton.

The Mitt
"Stoners do it higher"

[martha]

if you want lots of good trad, you'll have to come to NB. Welsford has over 300 routes on beauty granite. lots of Multi pitch and grades from 5.3-5.12.

[The Mitt]

As opposed to the flowery Trad climbing here in Nova Scotia? or are you just trying to say that there is good climbing in NB as well?

Mitt

[martha]

there is lots of great trad in NB. It means what it says.
In NS I've only trad climbed at sorrows end (which I think is awesome) and at first face and i didn't like it. Welsford is great as you get lots of routes in a concentrated area as opposed to smaller walls here and there like in NS.

I personally feel that the bouldering in NS is amazing and the trad not near as good where as in NB it is the opposite, the bouldering blows, and the Trad/sport is amazing.

no offense at all. I just love to climb anything, but highly reccomend Welsford to anyone asking.

[The Mitt]

I keep hearing that the roped climbing out here sucks from people who have never climbed at main face or Columbus or seen the potential for multipitch climbing at Cape Clear. It maybe not be concentrated like welsford (which is an outstanding area to climb) but the roped climbing out here will give any climber a run for their money on skill or quality of route (just not at the lower grades). I also believe that the reason why NS does not have a lot of sport climbs at mid to low grades is that the people who are interested in doing the development are more interested in the higher end climbs. Although we have alot of people who like to complain about the fact that we are short on sport routes but are not willing to do the work to create them.

Mitt

[granite_grrl]

Hey James! I was a little surprised to see you pop up on this board. So you're moving to Nova Scotia? When? If I'll see you around next season (or if you're going to be doing a bit of ice with Grant, I'm going to try it out this season) then I can give you a peak at my NS guide book to get you a little more excited. You may be able to pick one up from MEC in TO too.

If you want Multipitch, then Welsford, NB, is the place to go. There's a little at Main Face, and of course tons of potential at Cape Clear. Ignore the debate that going on in this thread, its all great, go and explore!

I think that what really make me love the crags in Nova Scotia is the areas that they're in. You head to a crag and you're generally surprised when you see another car there. Sorrows End is one of my favorites; I love the little lake at the base of the cliff, and the flats of brush that extend out to the Ocean. I remember the first time I went to RattleSnake Point. It was January and there was still a ton of climbers at the cliff. Little did I realize that that was not the worst of it.....

You're a little more fortunate to be closer than I am to some of the better place in Ontario, but even Bon Echo seems terribly crowded compared to the crags of NS.

To me, the climbing in NS isn't just about the climbing; it's about just enjoying and taking in the beauties of where it takes you.

Rebecca