by john » Tue Nov 15, 2005 11:54 am
The Known yet Unrecognized Spiral
DISCLAIMER: The following is long winded because I care. If this article is to long for you to waste time with, please read the first and last paragraph, you may find yourself interested enough to read the rest.
At least some good has come of this, Ian you seem to be truly interested in learning the origins of this issue and others. For you I am going to post a few thoughts and recommend some books. But, first to answer the previous reference to “a world climbing president”. As you ca imagine there is no, one world climbing president per say, but there is local leaders, such as the head of each chapter of the Alpine Club of Canada (for each region), similarly the head of each chapter and ultimately president of the American Alpine Club. Europe has similar organizations and governing bodies many of which are far more serious, than there North American counterparts. Additionally, there are bodies such as the UIAA which govern technical standards etc. The contact info for each of the respective people/bodies mentioned is available on the web, through a Google search. What each of these people will likely answer, as far as local ethics, with respect to painting route names on the rock is: historically it developed in Fontainebleau France (circa late 1800's) as circuits for which alpinists used to train for mountain routes. A few other localized pockets of paint activity developed in other world locations in intervening years, although minimally in comparison. Since this time, everywhere I know of has virtually agreed to no longer continue with the practice (although in Font they do maintain the existing circuits), of course there are exceptions to this rule. Reasons for why paint is no longer accepted are as varied as the locations in which it was used and I will try not pass judgment in my following assessment.
To understand why and how the strong ethics of some of today’s climbers formed, particularly traditional ones, you have to understand the development of North American (NA) climbing from the beginning to the end. This is far too lengthy a history to fully explore here (I will recommend books below, if you are still interested after this spiel). However, in short, climbing began as mountaineering, which was undertaken from bottom to top of mountains around the world. Climbers were explorers, many of which were surveyors of new unmapped areas of the world. Then came climbing mountains for leisure, with that came general alpinism and eventually rock and ice climbing (I left a lot out, but the idea is clear). With climbing interest growing virgin peaks became harder to find and get to, so people began to climb the same mountains by differing routes and more and more difficult lines. With the idea of pursuing climbing for difficulties sake (rather than just to get to the top by the easiest route) developing later. Climbing became a sport for the wealthy and scientific and a sense of great nationalism (circa 1920’s-1960’s) as a race to climb the world’s highest mountains was under taken.
Skipping a bit and moving onto North American rock climbing.
As climbing began in NA again it generally transpired on easy mountain routes and progressed to pure rock etc. (again skipping forward) A large jump in rock climbing standards was seen in NA with the advent of the cromoly piton (as opposed to soft iron used in the European Alps) by Chouinard, specifically for the hard granite cracks of Yosemite. With these pitons, the early rock climbing pioneers pushed standards in Yosemite through the proverbial roof (really interesting details of this generation in the book Camp 4 by Roper). The next big jump came when it was realized that the metal pitons were destroying the rock with every ascent. The natural solution (no pun intended) was the introduction of "nuts" (used also in Britain around and before this time) and clean climbing tactics, which no longer destroyed the rock. Robbins was a big player in this and initially was considered crazy for trusting them. With nuts came another rise in standards. All this while climbing was only allowed ground up, on sight with no pre-inspection, and stated as “the only fair means” and also the only practical means on such big walls.
During this time Warren Harding climbed the Nose using siege tactics while Robbins was pioneering huge free routes near by, this caused one of the first and largest ethics debates in climbing (see Camp 4). It was generally thought that ground up and clean was the best, but Harding took almost a year of on and off efforts with hundreds of hand drilled bolts to complete the Nose. Some saw him as visionary others as the death of climbing ethics (see Downward Bound by Harding). Even during this time virtually everyone still applied, ground up ethics, with as few bolts as possible. As the better Yosemite routes were climbed, efforts focused on repeating routes, but in better style then the first ascentionist (i.e. using less bolts and more free climbing) This lead to chopping of some bolts and the first bolt wars (but not "THE bolts wars"- see later). Despite this it was accepted by almost all, that each ascent strived for a better style than the previous, although many fell short.
To skip ahead and keep moving, Friends were invented next, by Lowe although Ray Jardine gets the credit. With friends a whole new world of possibilities opened up and free climbing exploded. Nuts and cams were all that were needed for many previous aid climbs to be freed. Ethics reined and bold hard lines were developed through out NA (much history in the Gunks and Yosemite, see - Climb Free by Hill).
During the eighties many climbers focused on hard free climbing from which developed a slide in ethics to the use of hang dogging, pre-inspection and rappelling into routes, these principles were scorned by Robbins and the old generation, but some didn't care. This ultimately led to rap bolting and "sport climbing". Thus began “The Bolt Wars”. Tradionalists argued that ethics of previous generation were not being upheld, the mental aspect of climbing was taken away and with it, a large tradition and essence of the sport. Also, the sport climbers were taking away the dwindling resources and first ascents from future generations, who would eventually be strong and good enough to climb the sport routes with out bolts (to a large extent they were correct as many of the routes could be and were freed clean later). The new sport climbers argued generally that they didn’t care, resources were plentiful and it was easier to push standards. Push standards they did, moving the top end grade from 5.12 to 5.13 to 5.14 to eventually 5.15. With sport climbing came: the shortening of the apprenticeship required to learn the art and techniques of traditional climbing, removal of any mental challenge and the theft of unmarred natural routes for future generation. Thus, completed the separation of sport and trad climbing.
So why did I get into this looooong summary? How does it translate into local ethics? Well, with all that went on in the past, a few prominent climbers considered climbing fundamentals to be divided into Style and Ethics. Style is a personal choice that each climber chooses for their own reason (hangdog vs. yo-yo, on sight vs. pre-inspect, top down vs. ground up etc), hopefully striving for the best they can achieve at the time. A climber’s style affects no one but themselves, and the challenges that they seek. Ethics are more serious. Ethics are a development of a code of conducts particular to a local area or community. Ethics are the governing set of rules to conduct yourself by, since ethics inherently affect someone else’s experience (bolting vs. natural, leaving fixed lines vs. cleaning them, littering vs. cleaning up, marking the rock, chipping, gluing, excessive ticking or brushing, clear cutting and so on). These factors decide for the next person/generation what state our resources will be in for the future. For example, Everest has literally hundreds of tons of garbage on it from only 52 years of expeditions, Yugi Hirayama’s claim of the worlds first on sight of a 14b is being challenged because it was ticked excessively making it “easy” for him, fixed lines tangle and blow in the wind all over Jannu and may other large mountains taking away the respectability of a true alpine ascent, due to escape lines, boldness of classic mountain and wall test pieces of the past are permanently gone, due to retro bolting i.e. Pacific Ocean Wall, many previous natural routes have been “aggressively” cleaned, downgrading them and many crags have been shut due to devegatation, littering and general destruction of the environment. This is why Ethics REALLY matter. To keep it in perspective and decide whether it is style or ethics, you only have to ask yourself a simple question: is what I am doing permanently impacting tomorrow’s outcome and if so, make a decision in the interest of the greater good of the climbing community. It will be argued by detractors that everything is a matter of degree, this is true. If we as a community want to preserve the environment to the ultimate degree, no one would leave the house (or maybe even be alive - extremist) for fear of impact. On the opposite end of the scale, one may decide to clear cut the forests of the world to expose the most rock possible and dig out the base of El Cap to make it higher. The extremes obviously are not the solution and what is right for one geographic area may not be for another, hence local ethics. Local ethics are established by one generation and handed to the next, in effort to mitigate impact to an area/sport by a generation who has experience, and has seen the outcome of a “lifetime” worth of experiences. It is the job of the new generation to develop their own style while respecting established ethics and hopefully IMPROVEING on them for the next generation. This attitude helps foster respect for oneself, others and the resource we all cherish. That is why ethics are so important.
John Bowles