Ontario climbing

[Annamaria]

Hey,

Does anyone know if there is good climbing in and around Port Elgin, Ontario?

[dcentral]

A friend who is from Midland, which is near by said there's lots of climbing over by Owen Sound.

I don't know about quality or quantity but it sounds like there's some to be had.

[Eager]

I've been working in the Port Elgin area for the past month and I do know that the Bruce Peninsula has some quality climbing, namely Lions Head which is north of Owen sound on the Bruce Peninsula. Haven't been up there to check it out but I hear it' tha sheeeeit.

[mike]

Port Elgin area... you don't mean sulfurbury do you?

How are those big heavy lifts going????

mjdorse@yahoo.ca

[Eager]

Hey Mike,
Me, Henderson, and Oleg have been at the Bruce Nuke plant for the past five weeks, Scott got pulled off the Sudbury job just before they brought the crane in needless to say he and Danny were a bit peturbed. I've seen a bunch of the pics from the lifts, there were a few setbacks and some engineering miscalculations like, this piece weighs only 60 tonnes when it really weighed 80 but they're gettin'er done. How's Nigeria, what's on the go over there UT offshore?

[mike]

email me dood...

[Fred]

and some engineering miscalculations like, this piece weighs only 60 tonnes when it really weighed 80

sounds like "out of the loop" talk to me LOL

[granite_grrl]

I've worked up at Bruce Power at Tiverton. Closest climbing was Halfway Dump near Owen Sound. It's now closed to climbing (and I never got the chance to climb there ). Other climbing is on the Bruce is Lion's Head (great in the summer because it's on the water, not really good late or early in the season). There's also Indian Ladder at Cape Croker. The next little concentration is near Collingwood.

If you pick up the guide book of climbing on the escarpment (old book, not very good, but its what we have) it lists most of the cliffs. There's also a book of sport climbs, which is a little bit better...but doesn't have all the cliffs.

Can't say that I think ontario slimestone is particularly great. And if you've been climbing in NS you may thing its a pile of choss. But we work with what we've got, and there are some nice climbs out there.

[Fred]

so if NS rock is a pile, what does that make Ontario rock?

[granite_grrl]

so if NS rock is a pile, what does that make Ontario rock?

And if you've been climbing in NS you may think its a pile of choss

Sorry, the "it" referrers to Ontario....meaning you may find Ontario limestone cliffs a pile of choss compared to the granite of Nove Scotia.

You get used to the knocking method. Tap tap tap...opps, that sounds hollow, oh, so does that. Crap, that peice is sitting behind a pile of poentially loose blocks. Not saying that you can't get good gear, but it's not a bad idea to place often and place early.

Rebecca

[Fred]

yeah I know you were saying Ontario is a pile relative to NS

what I was saying is... if NS rock is a pile to me then what does that make Ontario rock

[Eager]

New Brunswick Bouldering Rules!

[The Mitt]

Fred is this a troll or are you actually lame enough to come onto the NS Chat and say what choss NS climbing is?

Kinda like visiting a town and talking to the locals about how ugly the girls are. No matter how great their personalities are they are still the ones we climb on every weekend. Not your smartest comments dood.

Mitt

[Zamboni]

Well said guys.. I just hope I get to read a few more good posts on this thread Before it gets deleted!

HAHA!

[johnthegreat]

come on dude hes just joking around!

[martha]

The bouldering is second to none. I agree with that

And I personally love Sorrows End.

However, the rest of the rope climbing that I have done there has been choss relative to other places... Kamouraska, Welsford, St. Andrews, Bar Harbour, Vegas, The gunks etc etc.

That is just my personal opinion. not a slag to you guys at all. And I think some of you probably agree with me that the rope climbing is what it is, but it isn't top notch.

If only cracks like Orgasmatron went on for 2 pitches. then we'd be talking.

[mathieu]

The bouldering is second to none. I agree with that

And I personally love Sorrows End.

However, the rest of the rope climbing that I have done there has been choss relative to other places... Kamouraska, Welsford, St. Andrews, Bar Harbour, Vegas, The gunks etc etc.

That is just my personal opinion. not a slag to you guys at all. And I think some of you probably agree with me that the rope climbing is what it is, but it isn't top notch.

If only cracks like Orgasmatron went on for 2 pitches. then we'd be talking.

Woaa, talk about splitting hairs. Last time I checked people weren't rushing to Welsford or Sait Andrews to climb the "classics". Wake up people, NS and NB are no Vegas or gunks but its still decent. And since this thread is about Ontario, I'm sure its fine too.

[martha]

I'm not talking about the 'classics'. I'm talking specifically about the quality of the rock.

[Fred]

no it's not a troll. Am I not entiteled to my opinion of NS rock. The Bouldering is quality. The rope climbing is ok to play on but certainly not quality. Cape Clear has a nice view.

I find it curious that you say I come into a NS forum. I'm a CNS member and probably climb outdoors in NS more often then some of your other CNS members. I've been to Cape Clear, Sorrows, Main Face, Dover three times, Hefalump, Corn and Bung all this year.

As far as NB Bouldering goes Eager. That's kinda off topic isn't it? But if you want we can certainly start a thread in the NB portion of this forum where I can tell you my opinion about that too. It sucks. Big time. It's a bigger pile then anything else I've ever climbed.

Why are you guys drawing a political divide? You guys are too sensitive about your rocks.

As far as this thread goes I'm actualy interested in getting information about climbing in Ontario. That is the topic of this thread no? So when someone tells me Ontario is choss compared to NS then I want to get to the bottom of it since I plan to climb in Ontario next summer. I spend much time researching other climbing areas and I travel the globe in search of good rock. If I can make a comparison with some rock that I've been to then I can avoid being disapointed by visiting a crappy place.

Having said that, I'll move this thread to the General Chat portion where it belongs and voila.

[granite_grrl]

And since this thread is about Ontario, I'm sure its fine too.

You'd be thinking differently if you actually got to climb in Ontario

To be honest there are some good areas. Places like Lion's Head and Bon Echo are both really nice, but any of the cliffs near Toronto (Milton cliffs, and I hear Metcalf and a couple others in Collingwod area) are generally extreamly polished. There can also be quite a bit of loose rock for certain bands of cliff.

Niagara glen is the main place for bouldering. There seems to be a number of people who come to visit from away, and some think its amazing. But most of it is also polished and over chalked. If it wasn't so close I probably wouldn't go there very much (I'm not a huge boulder either though, so take that with a grain of salt).

In the summer the rock seems to sweat, it gets a lot better as it gets cooler. But summer is humid and slimey.

Personally, unless I'm climbing in the Bruce or heading up to Bon Echo, I think southern Ontario sucks compared to many places I've been. If you're upset at how short the cliffs are in NS then at least be thankful that the climbs aren't polished to heck and the gear is solid.

Or maybe I just have a bad attitude

Rebecca

PS - Fred, what areas are you looking at for Ontario??

[Fred]

PS - Fred, what areas are you looking at for Ontario??

I'm looking for anything good. Lion's Head is defiinitely on my list but I think I'd rather go there with someone who knows the place from what I've heard. Cara and I are going accross Canada next summer so we are flexible. Any suggestions? We'll also be looking to hook up with other climbers since we'll have a little creature with us by then. Thus one of us can tend to the little one while the other one climbs. If we can't hook up with other people for single pitch stuff then we may have to boulder more.

cheers

[granite_grrl]

If you ended up skipping Lion's Head it wouldn't be the end of the world, but the lake is lovely and the climbs are fun.

You have to rap into the climbs, usually only halfway down the cliff, hanging belays. Then you can lead out (bolt clipping). Going with someone who knows the area would help, but if you went on a weekend you could probably get beta on climb locations from other climbers there. Just be comfortable with acending your rap line if you get on something that you don't think you can climb out of.

I really like Bon Echo, but I don't think that's a place for little ones. You have to get dropped of by boat, and there are only a few decent routes. If you can find other partners and trade babysitting days then it could work.

Other stuff in Southern Ontario is lacking. There may be some really cool climbs at cliffs that I haven't been to yet, but someone else will have to answer to that.

I know nothing about climbing in Northern Ontario.

If you get out here and are looking for partners email or PM me and I'll see if I can help you out.

Rebecca

[martha]

I really like Bon Echo, but I don't think that's a place for little ones. You have to get dropped of by boat, and there are only a few decent routes. If you can find other partners and trade babysitting days then it could work.

This doesn't sound so different from Dover Island and that is no problem for little ones. hehe. But if there aren't many good routes there then it maybe isn't worth the fuss.

Lions head sounds fun for a day or two, and I do have an aunt in the area who might be interested in taking baby for the day. either that or Fred climbs a day with someone, and I watch the baby, and then I climb the next day with someone and he watches the baby. At least that way we both get to climb.

We'll be limited somewhat to mostly bouldering and single pitch though. But that is okay. Just to be outside will be great.

we'll definately let you know when we are in the area.

[Mountain_Marc]

Or maybe I just have a bad attitude

No, the climbing is not great in Ontario, unless you're a fan of limestone. I've been to Mt Nemo, Kelso, Rattlesnake and wasn't really impressed. I found a few routes that were really fun but overall not great. Although the bouldering in Niagara Glen is quite enjoyable and I don't even like to boulder. I boulder like once or twice a year.

I'm happy Ottawa is in a somewhat central location to some great climbing: Val David, Adirondacks, Vermont(ice climbing), New Hampshire. All great places for weekend road trips. And Luskville is an ok spot to have just 30 minutes away. Super fun routes but too a little short.

[Stef]

I really like Bon Echo, but I don't think that's a place for little ones. You have to get dropped of by boat, and there are only a few decent routes. If you can find other partners and trade babysitting days then it could work.

This doesn't sound so different from Dover Island and that is no problem for little ones. hehe. But if there aren't many good routes there then it maybe isn't worth

It's nothing like Dover. The cliff comes 300 ft staight-up out of the water. Many climbs start directly from the canoe or involve a paddle, hike over the top, and then a rap in. The great part is you don't need a rope, just a set of water wings

It was many years ago but I have memories of loose, dirty run-out rock, spinning bolts. This guy I know...a friend...not me or anything, had to get rescued by a passing canoe when his partner broke his ankle, leaving the two smart-guys stranded at the base, unable to climb out.

Anyway, I highly recommend it. Good times...

Metcalf Rock in the escarpment is nice too.

Cheers,

Stef

[granite_grrl]

Anyway, I highly recommend it. Good times...

Ha! Spoken like a true Bon Echo lover

I've heard Bon Echo described as more "alpine" type climbing. Not the kind of place you want to be taking falls. But great exposure, and I love staying at the ACC hut and sweating in the sauna at the end of the day.

[martha]

Okay, now I get why it isn't so 'kid friendly'. Sounds awesome. hmmm...who will baby sit for us this time......

[Annamaria]

Wow, I certainly got an interesting view out of people. I just wanted to know if there is any climbing in Port Elgin area, I think I'll be going out there for winter and summer and I wanted to know what there was to do. Thanks for all the replys. I look forward to climbing out there, even though it's not like NS climbing. But hey gotta deal with what you have.

Annamaria

[Eager]

When during the winter? I might be in the area during Jan/Feb, if you're into ice climbing?

[Annamaria]

Well i'll be there jan-aug. I'm not into ice climbing....i've never tried it so... ya