Harness

[visitor]

Hi. I'm going to be buying a harness soon (probably from MEC) and am just wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what to get/what to avoid getting? I've climbed on harness before (borrowed/rented) and I'll be climbing on rock (haven't tried ice yet, but who knows ), and indoors; The only thing I really know is that I want an adjustable harness and I'm not an overly big person. I've been looking at the Black Diamond Blizzard. Any thoughts??

Thanks for your help.

[dcentral]

Adjustable leg loops is a good idea. I have fixed leg loops on mine and I wish more times then not I could adjust them. Although if you are lazy it's the way to go.

I don't like those Rock Empire(I think) that have the gold stiching around the waist. Those are really uncomfortable and some how seem to easily get all cluster frigged on you when you take them off. Then you have to spend 5 mitues sorting them out. A lot of gyms have them -- I hate them.

A lot of people I know have Arc'teryx harnesses and no body says anything bad about them.

That blizzard one looks nice.

Make sure get one though with a good haul loop in the back and really try to sit in the harness before you buy it.

One of the BD harness modles has that multicoloured ribbed waist belt webbing. I wouldn't recommend that one at all, everyone says it's a real pain to do up.

I'm going to have to get a new harness next season I think.

[martha]

I say Arc-teryx all the way. They are sweet. I have the Womens Isis, which is amazing and it does have fixed leg loops. I personally find these WAY more comfortable then the adujustable ones. Especially in the summer with shorts on. They are snug over my ice gear, but aren't a problem.

I recently bought the Arc-teryx Verro as my Isis had worn through the belay loop (I climb a lot) anyways, it has adjustable leg loops and I like this one also. My only problem is that since I am a woman with hips and a waist and a short rise, the Womens Specific Harness (Isis) is way better suited for me. I will likely buy another one soon.

Fred currently has the Arc-teryx Vapor and used to have the Targa. He can tell you more about what he thinks, but I know he likes them both.

I've climbed in several other harnesses and I don't like the Petzl ones as the molded gear loops are too small for racking full trad gear plus they angle towards the front which makes all the gear slide between your legs everytime you step up and that is annoying as heck. The waist is also bigger in the back and that can be uncomfortable too. The Black Diamond one is pretty good but some of them have moulded plastic on the waist, and it just never breaks in well.

if you are serious about climbing, and plan on having the harness for a few years, make sure it has anything you might need.

I agree with Dcentral that a good haul loop in the back is nice. All the Arc-teryx harnesses have them. Be aware that they are not rated for dynamic loads, only static ones... like hauling the pig. I also agree with him on the Rock Empire harness. It is a less expensive starter harness, but really stiff and hard to break in, not to mention not particularily comfortable. I've climbed in it a fair bit too.

hope this helps.

cara

[granite_grrl]

I second the Isis. Its pretty comfortable, has the haul loop, the gear loops sit well (can access the gear on all loops while trad climbing, I usually rack on my harness).

My first harness had adjustable leg loops, but I never bothered adjusting them. The second time around I just went with the fixed leg loops, haven't found it to be a problem yet.

[Fred]

the Black Diamong momentum is a great affordable harness that is completely adjustable. Also, if you don't have a belay device and chalk bag I recommend getting the package deal from MEC $95. Can't beat that anywhere.

avoid Petzel like the plague since the gear loops might not be big enough for a nut tool and ATC at the same time

The BD blizzard is a sweet harness but made for ice climbing. It's a bit much if you aren't gona be doing any ice climbing or mountaineering. You are paying for things like the ice clipper carabiner which you might not need.

Custom fitted harnesses are sweet. That's all I use.
For those I recommend:
Arcteryx Targa (mens)
Arcteryx Isis (womens)

[Andrew]

I've always used the Rock Empire Peak Plus. I have two of them, medium and large. I tink they're fine, but now I've only ever worn the ratty ones at gyms before that. They are totally adjustable and at least medium comfortable. I have taken 3 falls in them, 15 feet and two 10 footers with no pain. They can get clusterfrigged trying to sort them out, but its not hard to sort it out once your used to it. I bought it cause everyone else I knew had them and they were really low prices. They are like 39$ now. I don't think you cna find a better harness for less anywhere.

I think my next harness will be arcteryx, but for now my rock empire wl be fine.

[dcentral]

I find my petzel pretty comfortable but I have an older model that they don't make anymore.

The nice thing about the Isis leg loops is the little bit of elsatic so they can stretch to accomodate heavier pants.

I guess the thing about fixed leg loops is make sure they fit. Mine are little too big and they get annoying when you are in the harness for a long time.

[jeremy]

my Isis had worn through the belay loop (I climb a lot) anyways

That just means you pull belay duty a lot

[Ropeguy]

Hey Martha does the Verro have the big wide elastic band like your new pants???
I stopped using my BD momentum for a Petzl Corax and I much prefer the corax.Little more expensive but you don't have to double back because of the buckles....and more comfortable...

[martha]

Hey Martha does the Verro have the big wide elastic band like your new pants???

Hey Ropeguy, Do you want a belay?

Well, since this is about harnesses, and so you all know, I have moved onto the Petzl 8003 to accomodate my growing belly. It works really well, and though it is a bit uncomfortable on rappell due to the un-padded leg loops. There are only 2 gear loops so following long trad routes is a pain since all the gear goes in two places, but otherwise, that is my only complaint. It took a while, and some climbing to get it completely adjusted to my height etc, but now it is really good. It certainly does the trick and keeps me on the rock at 6 months pregnant and still growing!

I'm still climbing harder than you in it Ropeguy, 'big wide elastic band pants' and all.

[Fred]

That just means you pull belay duty a lot

shush. Don't go making her think it's not ok to belay for a full day without climbing.

[Fred]

I have moved onto the Petzl 8003 to accomodate my growing belly.

B.A.G.

sounds like a TV model number. Climbing gear usualy has cool names like Vapor, Targa, Corax but this one laddies and gentlemen is the model 8003

[PaulB]

As with most climbing gear that you wear, fit and comfort are the major concerns followed by features like adjustable leg loops, gear loops and a haul loop.

if you are serious about climbing, and plan on having the harness for a few years, make sure it has anything you might need.

If you really get into it (and are a bit of a gear slut) you can end up with several harnesses! For example, you might have an Arc'Teryx Targa (for summer rock climbing), a BD Blizzard (tricked out with ice clippers and tool holsters for ice climbing) and a BD Alpine Bod (for alpine climbing and ski mountaineering).

[visitor]

Thanks for all the advice. I think I've narrowed it down the the BD Blizzard and the Arc-teryx Isis. For some reason I think adjustable leg loops are the way to go (not sure why though). Does anyone happen to know where I could buy the Isis? I don't see any on the MEC site.

[dcentral]

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_deta ... 0455271434

Mec still has them.

[Mountain_Marc]

I'm a fan of the Misty Mountain Cadillac. It's like sitting in a couch!

http://www.mistymountain.com/cadillac.htm

One day, i will go to West Virginia and they'll have my size! One day!

In the meantime, Arcteryx Verro has served me well for long routes in Yosemite, sport climbing, and ice climbing.

[visitor]

http://www.mec.ca/Products/product_detail.jsp?PRODUCT%3C%3Eprd_id=845524441773575&FOLDER%3C%3Efolder_id=2534374302691023&bmUID=1130455271434

Mec still has them.

Must have skipped right by it. Thanks

[Ropeguy]

Hey Fred I was thinking the 8003 meant mm's around the waist!!
thought maybe it was a maternity harness.

Oh and Martha,I will gladly use you as a belay slave,I figure you could now hold my 210lb carcuss up there in the event of a fall.....As a matter of fact at 6 months your could probably hold Fred,me and a Buick without to much problem!!!

[martha]

Hey Fred I was thinking the 8003 meant mm's around the waist!!
thought maybe it was a maternity harness.

Oh and Martha,I will gladly use you as a belay slave,I figure you could now hold my 210lb carcuss up there in the event of a fall.....As a matter of fact at 6 months your could probably hold Fred,me and a Buick without to much problem!!!

Well fortunately for me Ropeguy, even with 9 months of pregnancy weight I will still be nearly 50lbs slimmer than 210lbs, (you forget how short I am!) however, I would gladly belay you on anything you like as you are just such a nice guy.

What are your hardest projects this fall? you must be climbing those tough 5.6's by now eh?

[Stef]

ttp://www.parkerems.com/sporting_goods/Products/mountain_climbing_harness.html

[Stef]

opps, sorry. I'lll try again

http://www.parkerems.com/sporting_goods/Products/mountain_climbing_harness.html

[Mountain_Marc]

Man, they can't even spell "rappelling"

Maybe it's because the harness looks so shoddy that it will "repel" climbing partners away.

[martha]

perfect one stop shopping! a climbing harness and a gun case!

[Richard Eh!]

Is it just a coincidence that this type of harness is listed directly under "Bait Protector"

[dcentral]

Never trust anyone who thinks using Comic Sans is a good choice.

http://bancomicsans.com/home.html

[Ropeguy]

Those (content moderated) at McDonalds and Starbucks,How dare they use Comic Sans without asking permission from the brothers and Sisters of the movement


(content moderated)


Thank you Martha for offering to Belay me,Just for that I wanted to let you know that you may name your first born after me!! and by the way....I'm toproping a 5.61/2 now!!

[Fred]

Ropeguy,

you aren't funny. You can stop now.

peace

[Ropeguy]

I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........

[Andrew]

Hey ropeguy. I live in Quispamsis, too. What's your name?

I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........

[Fred]

I was just kiddin Freddy,Don't get upset........

I just don't like my wife getting all that "whale" attention. She looks great and is climbing supper solid still.

peace