UNB Rock and Ice - Safety Course Series 2005/2006

[john]

UNB Rock and Ice - Safety Course Series 2005/2006

This course is separated into a multi-part series. Each section is intended to expand skills developed in previous sections; as such it is required to attend the sections in sequential order. Below is a brief outline of various section contents. Topics are not limited to those outlined below; course content will be tailored to those in attendance.

Section #1

This section is intended for beginner climbers interested in learning introductory terms and techniques for indoor and outdoor climbing. This section is intended to teach skills to allow the student to understand how to safely identify and use basic climbing equipment and top rope safely. This section does not however, explore how to build anchors for outdoor climbing and assumes the student will be lower by their belayer after climbing (i.e. rappelling is not taught).

Review climbing specific terminology
Identification of various gear i.e. slings, cams, biners ect.
Learn names of various holds
Learn the names of various techniques i.e. gaston, knee bar, drop knee, flag ect.
Learn various types of rock climbing – trad, sport, aid, bouldering, top rope
Learn how to spot – Put pads under and guide climber onto them


Learn to put on a harness DOUBLE BACK
Learn how to tie into the rope
Learn how to belay – COMMANDS, CHECKING your partner, brake hand, 5pt belay, close to the wall, off to the side slightly, pay attention

Section #2

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understands the skills covered in section #1. This section covers the differentiation between top roping and lead climbing, covers knots and anchor systems appropriate for both. This section also covers rappelling and methods of backup-up systems.

Knots and USES
Clove – tying off/anchoring
Munter – rappel/belay backup
Figure 8 on a Bight – anchor/tie into middle of the rope
Figure 8 – tie to harness
Prusik – ascend a line or backup rappel among other uses

Anchors and USES - Top rope with twist – wandering routes, shock loading, 2 slings
Figure 8 – lead, multipitch, one sling or cordlette
Tree – Girth Hitch – doesn’t slide, longer, 2 sling
Doubled up – Strong, short, 2 slings
Figure 8 – one sling
Redundant and Equalized
Locked and Gates Opposed
Double Check Everything

Rappelling
Transferring from anchor
Brake hand
Lock biners
Thread ATC correctly
Knot and Equalized Strands/Bend knees

Section #3

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understood the skills covered in section #1 and section #2. This section reviews section #2 - anchoring skills briefly, and then expands on anchoring methods for traditional routes. This section covers the basics for aid climbing including backups and techniques for basic French Free and more complex aid climbing. Various methods of ascending a fixed line will be demonstrated, both with and without a fixed anchor, and with and with out mechanical devices. This section is intended to teach skills necessary for the next section of the course - self rescue. Section #3 is not intended to be an all inclusive “how to aid climb” course; however the basic aid skills covered are needed for self rescue. The crux of this section is the numerous ways each technique may be accomplished depending on the gear available to you. Effort will be made to demonstrate techniques that use basic gear, as this course is designed to prepare the student for complications associated with single and multipitch free climbing.

Learn how to build and equalize (various methods) natural protection for leading and in situ rescue scenarios.
Learn french free techniques (with limited and more complex gear)
Learn how to use basic aid gear (ascenders, tibloc, aiders various daisy chains, traction, ropeman etc.)
Learn how to ascend fixed and unfixed lines, with various equipment

Emphasis will be placed on using all types of gear to do basic aid climbing tasks. This section will be very detailed with discussion on when and why to use various techniques when multiple techniques are an option.

Section #4

This section assumes the student has attended and fully understood the skills covered in section #1, section #2 and section #3. This section will cover self rescue with a focus on common scenarios encountered when free climbing single and multipitch routes. A strong command of content taught in previous sections will be required. Topics will include necessary skills to rescue an unconscious climber on multi pitch routes with one or more people. This section will NOT cover any medical treatment of the victim, only climbing systems required to evacuate them. Details of this section are still under development.


John Bowles
President UNB Rock and Ice Club

[Pierre]

Do you have to be a member UNB Rock and Ice to attend these courses?

Is there a cost?

[john]

Cost is free, it is open to all. Section one and two are planned for the end of November,section 3 after christmas and 4 outside in the spring. Exact dates and times to follow in the next few weeks.

john

[jeremy]

I hope people jump on this. climbers, especially new ones can never get enough professional instruction. Its worth it just for the outdoor safety instruction. We can never be too safe. Anyother program like this would cost mega $$$

JH

[vbpad]

have we set up dates for one and two because i need to plan ahead of time.

[Matt Peck]

Is there going to be any component of section three taught outside? I just see difficulty in teaching aid climbing while not able to have access to real rock.

[john]

To answer the last two questions:

"Section one and two are planned for the end of November, section 3 after christmas and 4 outside in the spring. Exact dates and times to follow in the next few weeks."



"Section #3 is not intended to be an all inclusive “how to aid climb” course"

It is not intended to teach how to place pins etc, but to aid using proper and efficient technique, which is first most easily demonstrated with bolts at the wall. More of a concern is how to ascend a line to reach the injured climber, then release his wieght off the rope, transfer him to an anchor and lower him with you, which is for section 4. It will likely be to late in the year to do this outside, so the theory will be demonstrated indoors in #3 then shown again outdoors at the start of #4. Details are still be worked out for #4

john[/quote]

[vbpad]

fine when do you think you'll know more as to when exactly?

[visitor]

Do you know approximately how long each section will be (hours)?

[martha]

I would expect to set aside at minimum and entire saturday to get through everything.

[visitor]

Just wondering if there's any news on the dates for the first two sections of the course?

[Richard Eh!]

Probably the start of december as there's a wilderness first aid course which is being offered as a precursor to the series of courses John is offering.
This from PES:
I finally was able to book the weekend of the 25 to the 27(Nov) at Odell Park for the Wilderness First Aid Training.
The price will be 175.50 $ as of now if there are 15 people registered... I'm trying to lower the cost by getting Odell Park rented for free though.

WFA course:
Soft Tissue injuries
Muscular / Skeletal injuries and problems
Environmentally caused problems (hypothermia)
First aid kits and prevention

* 18 hour course of hands on learning in Odell Park

[martha]

I just want to say a big thanks to John for organizing the courses. today was a huge success with about 20 people participating. For many of us, today was simply a refresher on belay/anchor etc techniques, but for some it was an entire learning experience.

I have to say though, there were more people there with loads of experience then there were beginners. It seems to me that it has been the beginners I have heard around the wall and other places complaining that they have no way to learn this stuff.

As always, the ones who make the most noise never seem to take part or step up to the plate.

[sharkfreak]

Hi there,


Just wanted to know if there will be a Safety Course Series for 2006/2007 ??

Thanks

Sharkfreak

[TDot]

are you INSURED?

[sharkfreak]

I'm not right now, but I will be shortly. I am applying for an insurance ..... Is there any special insurance that I need to take this cours ?

Sharkfreak

[Pierre]

TDot.... are you for really?

Sharkfreak - If your seeking question about UNB safety course why don't you just e-mail them. Not really sure what Tdot is babbling about.

[Fred]

are you INSURED?

you guys should stop using the Rock Court computer to post your dirty work