Climb Eastern Canada

by **Fred** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 7:58 am

two things

1) that's the hardest 5.10a I've ever climbed

2) two ropes got shreaded to the core toproping that thing this weekend. I'd recommend not falling on that route if you like your rope.

by **martha** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 8:12 am

And don't forget, Kudos to Stef for a stellar hard man lead of the route!!

Great Job!

I watched from a ledge on L-shape and he looked solid and strong the whole way. And from my vantage point, I couldn't see the brown streek in his pants until I zoomed in with the camera.

Just kidding!!

Congrats Stef!!!! SOOOO solid!!!!!!!!!!!!

by **Richard Eh!** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 10:26 am

We thought it was really impressive from the top of "Homer" as well! Awesome lead Stef!

by **jeremy** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:05 pm

When the ropes were cut, was the belayer at the ground or the anchor? I think belaying from the ground, and using long slings/ back cleaning once the gear directly under the roof is in place will avoid cutage.

nice route though.... post the picts on your site.

jeremy

by **Fred** » Mon Oct 24, 2005 4:12 pm

we were belaying from the ground with no directionals on the route at all. TR top to bottom. For my rope anyways. Stef's was with directionals below the roof and belay from above with a second following his lead.

by **Stef** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 7:31 am

I had gear in above the roof, but it doesn't prevent the second from swinging if they fall. I think it is the rope running sideways across the lip of the roof, during a fall, that causes the damage. Not a good route to "work" on top-rope with lots of people. Two ropes shreded in one afternoon is not a coincidence.

Cheers,

Stef

by **jeremy** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 7:49 am

Oh you fell, well I never thought of that. I didn't expect someone to fall on a 5.9 :wink:

That gets to be an expensive habit.

PS I find rock opera much harder than the roof. Solid 5.10b

jeremy

by **Shawn B** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 8:27 am

I agree with you Jeremy. Rock Opera is harder than the roof. I'd say Gumby's is one of those routes that if you nail the sequence it probably goes at 9+. The roof is just obviously very commiting and it's scary under that roof looking out. The knee bar and going from the two hand free hang with your left hand instead of your right (which is not what your brain will want to do) is key. You can easily make it 5.11 if you do it wrong. Nice job Stef. Up next...Inhuman!!

by **Stef** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:09 am

I agree, it's sort of 5.11 for the head 5.9 for the arms. The solid rope/webbing combo at the roof the crux was a good confidence boost. Thanks for upgrading the sling and the good beta Shawn.

Cheers,

Stef

by **jeremy** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 9:10 am

I hate to say it but I think rock opera is a tall guy route. Were not the tallest of guys.
I seem to remember a key hold(s) being just out of reach.

jeremy

by **Rob L** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:06 am

I am only 5'8" but maybe Rock Opera needs to have a grade change?? If I remember when I put the route up it was just a bit of a balance problem.

by **Fred** » Tue Oct 25, 2005 10:57 am

there are two ways to do it.

1. head straight up then traverse left with undercling, long reach

2. head straight up the slab, diagonaly up and left. A bit harder but not reachy just balancy and crimpy.

It's no more than 5.10b. The roof IS harder than you guys think in my opinion.

Climb Eastern Canada

Gumby Roof

Gumby Roof

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