Scouting .7+

[Matt Peck]

Hey All. Just looking at some of the 5.7 and up routes in the area, especially around Minkey Wall. What's that seven (traversity?) that runs over by Pink Panther like? I can't picture it in my mind. Also, does anyone have beta for Wile Coyote? Looks like a really cool route but after the layback I can't quite figure it out from the ground. I don't want to get up there and get right confused. And is there a bolt anchor at the ledge for the second pitch of pink panther? I kind of want to hike up there (it says the first pitch is 5. and rap from where the 5.8 ends. Can this be done?....hmmm.... is Snot a decent route? I think that's everything.

[mathieu]

Wile E coyote has a short lived nice section followed by mehh climbing. As for beta, go north and then turn to a bearing of ~80 degrees and then turn to a bearing of 320 degrees to a small tree. Does this help? SO to repeat, up, right, left up.

[martha]

Pink Panther is usually done in 1 pitch. just place minimal gear on the first pitch to avoid drag.

yes, there is a bolt anchor for this route. Be careful getting to it though, it is on the ledge.

you'll likely want to set a directional on it though when you rap off cause if you fall at the roof section your belayer will have to lower you to the slabby bit to get on again. and you'd swing from the anchor.

enjoy. It is a fun route.

[Fred]

Matt,

I don't think Cara understood your question and I"m not sure i have either but here goes. NO there is no bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch (start of second pitch) but there is one at the top of the second pitch. The belay has a big horn apparently with webbing nest that you can lower off of. I've never seen it though so don't take my word for it. I don't think Traversity is worth doing myself.

As for Wile Coyote. It's a great route. Hard at the bottom, then easier at the top. Route finding is not obvious from the ground but quite obvious when you are up there. If you make the bottom layback you'll likely cruise the top part. It goes up and left near the top and finishes at a tree. Also try Cherry Garcia while you are up there.

good luck

[mathieu]

Another 5.7 traverse is from the belay ledge on that wall where sparky start variation is and traverse to the 1st belay of Light Fandango. Me and Goodman did it years ago and I remember getting a tingly feeling when I stepped over a certain section. Maybe it was the wasps nest or maybe it was the smoke burning my lips but it was alright.

A fun climb is also found if you go up and right from that belay. There is that 5.4 corner, then theres a mix line (11-) and then a sport line (10 ish) on that face (i'm not 100% possitive on the last two) but if you go up in the broken stuff there is a nice line. just make sure about the blocks you pull!>! And from the top of that theres that controversial 5.7 that goes to the left of the teatering block and there is apparently another 5.7 on the right side of the block. So says a tall lanky fellow...

[mathieu]

A fun climb is also found if you go up and right from that belay.

BY "that belay" I mean the one at the top of sparky start variation

[Fred]

There is that 5.4 corner

that is the second pitch of Pink Stripe on Grey Canvas

then theres a mix line (11-)

there is no 5.11 mixed line on the upper Gallery wall. There is a 5.11+ sport route below the anchor for Sparky Start and it's called "Never Ending Story"

and then a sport line (10 ish) on that face

There is a 5.10+ mixed line (1 bolt) up the middle of the second pitch of Gallery Wall. I think it's called "The route not taken"

but if you go up in the broken stuff there is a nice line. just make sure about the blocks you pull!

that is the original second pitch of Trundling by Moonlight although everyone seems to do the second pitch of Pink Stripe

And from the top of that theres that controversial 5.7 that goes to the left of the teatering block

this is what everyone calls Rythm Sticks but in fact the original Rythm sticks goes out and right around the teetering block (totem)

and there is apparently another 5.7 on the right side of the block. So says a tall lanky fellow...

this is the original Rhythm Sticks

[Fred]

oh and 5.7 Rythm Sticks feels like 5.9

[mathieu]

There is that 5.4 corner

that is the second pitch of Pink Stripe on Grey Canvas

then theres a mix line (11-)

there is no 5.11 mixed line on the upper Gallery wall. There is a 5.11+ sport route below the anchor for Sparky Start and it's called "Never Ending Story"

and then a sport line (10 ish) on that face

There is a 5.10+ mixed line (1 bolt) up the middle of the second pitch of Gallery Wall. I think it's called "The route not taken"

but if you go up in the broken stuff there is a nice line. just make sure about the blocks you pull!

that is the original second pitch of Trundling by Moonlight although everyone seems to do the second pitch of Pink Stripe

And from the top of that theres that controversial 5.7 that goes to the left of the teatering block

this is what everyone calls Rythm Sticks but in fact the original Rythm sticks goes out and right around the teetering block (totem)

and there is apparently another 5.7 on the right side of the block. So says a tall lanky fellow...

this is the original Rhythm Sticks

Yeah that's exactly what I meant (i knew I was going to be wrong on the 10ish mix line), thanks. I don't have the guidebook so its from memory. Did anyone ever do the 'original' rythm sticks?

[Stef]

Hey Matt, I asked about traversity once, I was told it was loose and danergerous ("to save the Princess" still fresh in your mind??).

Like Fred said, there are no bolts at the orgininal 1st pitch belay of pink pather. There is, however a block/thread thing that can be slung, with the possibility of backing up with small gear. It's pretty easy getting up to that ledge, but a bit run-out. I think I normally only get one or two pieces up until that point.

Cheers,

Stef.[/quote]

[Shawn B]

Hey Matt
I'd recommend against going from the bolted belay in the middle of Gallery Wall to the belay ledge on top of the 1st pitch of Light Fandango. Did it a number of years ago. Remember dirty and questionable rock with little useful pro. You can go up from the bolt belay to that old spruce tree that used to have tat on it, go out left from there and up the face to the top of Whiter Shade of Pale/LF. Moves are ok, pitch is nice and long, gear is good but you can't get gear everywhere. It's a bit dirty. Probably 5.6 and use lots of long slings. Agree with Fred that Travesty or Traversity...whatever it is...P1 of Pink Panther is not worth the bother. There is a bunch of tat on the block on that ledge (no bolts) and not sure I'd want to rap off it. And I'd also recommend not climbing straight up to that ledge either unless you are solid on .10's. The gear is not great and climbing is in the .7 to .8 range. There is also a wonky flake too.

[jeremy]

I agree with shawn, do not traverse from the anchor on gallery to light fandango. Dirty and no gear and not easy.

[mathieu]

oh come on, it wasn't that bad. I remember going up and down lots, I wouldn't say its a must do but if your bored and looking for something to do it can be done safely.

[Matt Peck]

Yeah, I was out with Stef a couple of weeks ago and we climbed sparky start and then left and up throught the gully to the bolt anchor just above that tree that used to have all the tat on it. It was a nice route. I've heard all kinds of bad stuff about the Rthym stick route (a, I can't figure out what line it is (i guess it is backwards in the guidebook), b, the loose block is supposedly sketch (I've had it with loose blocks!) and c, it looks kinda hard.
I think I'll go and give Wile and Cherry Garcia a try, and what was the word on Snot?
PS, thanks for the warning about the first pitch of Pink Panther, and Traversity.
What about all that low grade stuff in the Amphetheatre that has like an A1 rating? Anything worth trying that doesn't need nailing?
Lots of questions....

[Fred]

Matt,

have you done Whiter Shade of Pale?

Or routes on Simpson Wall?

[Matt Peck]

Yeah, I did Whiter last year, and I've done Homer and Marge on Simpson, are there any other good ones?

[Fred]

no those were the ones I was thinking of

how about "Sweet Potato Pie"

[Matt Peck]

No, I haven't done that one yet. I'll have to give it a go.

[Fred]

No, I haven't done that one yet. I'll have to give it a go.

the good thing about it is if you don't feel comfortable at the crux you can downclimb relatively easily and bail. I think. Don't quote me on that one. Just remember, on the vertical cruxy bit, small holds take you to a pretty big flake left of the crack. Hang from it and plug a bomber cam in then keep going. Good luck. If you can climb About A Rope you can certainly do Sweet Potato Pie.

[mathieu]

Hey Matt,

Here's one you should maybe try , The Waltz. Its a sport bottom with a trad top that is easily protectable and not harder than 7. If your still cranking hard in the gym you should cruise up the sport part (3 or 4 bolts slabish climbing) . One of my favorite climbs in welsford. Check for hornets first, I remember there was a small nest there last time I did it.

[Fred]

3 or 4 bolts slabish climbing

2 bolts easy 5.10a well protected

[mathieu]

a little bored at the office fred???

[Fred]

hehe

always time for a little forum surffing