Welsford Ice in.

[martha]

Hey all,

Climbed all day in Welsford today. The ice was great. all three lines are in, except the far right is running pretty hard so is wet. Everything is leadable also. nice and fat/phat for a good start on the season.

Cave Fever is also formed, but no ice on the top out slab. I emailed pics to Joe to put up so the update should be there soon.

We are hitting parlee tomorrow if all goes well. hope to see you there!

[Fred]

I was down to Welsford tonight to climb some ice. Just wanted to add that the ice is not fat. The ice is in and climbable on all three lines but the left line is only about 4 to 6 inches thick in some places. You can still see the rock through the ice. It can probably be lead but you'd probably rip the whole venire off if you fell. I think I'll wait for a little more mass to resist a fall. Not that you are supposed to fall ice climbing but you know what I mean. The ice was quite plastic and the water is still flowing nicely plus the temps were pretty cold so it's only going to get better. The center line is thin in the mid section but some thicker chunks near the top. Couldn't see the right most line cause it was dark but it looked pretty decent 2-3ft thick.

Fred, reporting from Welsford.

[martha]

no offense, but I tend to disagree. the far right line is brittle and thin in places. I climbed it and it was really thin at the bottom, with water running fully behind the ice and at the top though it appears thick to the eye, it is actually just bunches of brittle cauliflowers and small icicles formed on top of each other so your tools just punch though. It sounds hollow most of the way up. The two on the left are good though. especially the middle one. in places yes, I"m sure you couldn't put a long screw, but i think a 15cm would be no problem in most places. The farthest left is a bit thin and not likely leadable to most for another few days.

i'm guessing that having a headlamp shining in the ice gave you a different look on it that what we saw in the day light. Maybe made it look thiner? or inabled you to see the rock more readily though it? i dunno. All i know is that it was thicker today than yesterday. and will be thicker again tomorrow I'm betting.

Or hell, maybe I just don't know what the heck I'm talking about. wouldn't be the first time!

I wouldn't lead it myself just yet, but I know there are those who would.

hey, Ulysse said he'd lead it!

[Fred]

Or hell, maybe I just don't know what the heck I'm talking about. wouldn't be the first time!

hey, Ulysse said he'd lead it!

Sure it can be lead. Anything that can be climbed can be lead. But if you are reporting on ice conditions for the general public it may be safer for those planning trips from abroad to know that it's not "fat". Fat does not mean there is ice. Fat means it's fat.

[Shawn]

Just fyi for anyone reporting conditions, here is a pretty good description of just what "IN" means: What does "In" mean? Of course nowadays almost any route can be climbed no matter how thin it is by somebody. Climbers are doing routes in conditions that most would have considered almost suicidal just a few years ago. When we call a route "In" however, it means that the route is climbable at the consensus grade it's been given in guidebooks and there's enough, good ice to provide the amount of protection normally available on the route. It must also be in good enough shape so that when attempting it, a climber isn't exposed to a higher than normal amount of risk for that route. Courtesy of Chauvin Guides site which is vg for conditions if you are heading to New Hampshire. Yes, everyone's perception of a "climbable" route is different but reporting a route to be "in" should be somewhat standardized. Remember others may be relying on your report when planning a trip or a day out.

[Guest]

i'm guessing nothing in welsford is 'in' right now then ... that was a LOT of rain we just got... by monday or tuesday i'd guess that it is back to the same form though.... supposed to get COLD...