bolts at main face

[granite_grrl]

Sorry Scooter....there really is a big difference between a bolt and a hanger. They're two seperate items actually. And in this conversation they make a big difference, its not just a matter of "cracking down on english".

[Scooter]

hanger, hanger, hanger, hanger, hanger, hanger.
jesus christ if you had been reading everything one should know i meant hanger. ill be sure to get it right for next time. im done with this thread. its going nowhere.

[martha]

Is there a better way to insure that hanger stay tight than bringing along a wrench every time?. Would applying a bit of glue or rubber cement on the nut before tightening it help? I'm trying to be purely constructive here...

if you come to a bolt with NO hanger on it while climbing, take a nut, slide it down the cables, 'sling' it over the stud, and tighten it up again. then clip it like you would any piece.

not the best piece in the world, but works in a pinch. I've seen it done. fortunately I haven't had to do it...but it will work.

It isnt' a bad idea to carry a small rack of nuts with you when sport climbing as you never know when you might need them. On 'Prince of Darkness 5.10+' in Red Rocks Vegas it says 6 pitches, bolted. I'll bet we put it 1-3 nuts on every pitch. Either because the bolts were really spaced, missing or there was actually some gear in easier sections where bolts were not placed at all but not mentioned in the guide as you could do the route 'all sport', but safer is always better right?

[Fred]

fred, thanks for the comment. you sure do like to get your nose into every topic on here don't ya. and of course, you know everything. maybe we should call you god?

I like to get the facts straight. I don't claim to know everything. But I do know how bolts work so I offered my expertise in Mitt's defence. Are you suggesting I shouldn't be part of the conversation?

and... are you upset that I'm right or that you're wrong? sorry for trying to get to the bottom of it.

[mathieu]

Like sand throught the hour glass so are the days of our lives......

This post made me miss a Kids in the Hall episode. Oh well it killed 45 minute from a rainy day.

This forum is always good for entertainment. Keep it up folks.

[MacLeod]

I'm just gonna chuck this out there for the mitt, u said i owe u an apology and some hangers...well 1 i dont have ur hangers i dont no where they r and 2, im not apologizing for ne thing...all i did was state the fact that some hangers fell off and from my understanding a bolt came out (not all the way) but it moved...i was on the line with scott nate and another climber who is the one with the 3 years trad experience,i boulder and that was my first outside sport climb i was then told "that's fu**ed up" by the other ppl there....im not comin on here to start ne battles,nate posted the first statement and i was just saying aswell that sumthin wasnt right...again ill say b4 i get jumped on NO i dont have ne experience at this but the ppl i was there with do and they said sumthin was wrong...and again 'mitt' im sorry ur angry with me but i was just stating what i was told and what i saw.

-MacLeod

[martha]

and from my understanding a bolt came out (not all the way) but it moved

Listen to me...the bolt DID NOT MOVE. stick with that you are a boulderer and don't know anything about it. there is NO WAY that bolt moved.

I really want to know who 'has 3 years experience' and swears that it moved...cause i'm telling you..it didn't. I would put my life on those bolts and take a whipper on them tomorrow..and that says a lot considering i'm pregnant!!

Sheesh you guys.

[MacLeod]

y would i stick to bouldering...im told sumthin by someone who was there and said the bolt moved...u werent there and ur tellin me it didnt....and again stick to bouldering??.....who r u to tell me i sohuldnt rope climb haha...this site seems to b all about personal shots...thats not what im treyin to do...we posted sumthin that was a concern to us and now all the sudden were the bad guys and we shouldnt climb?...ya ok

[The Mitt]

I hate to throw quotes back at you but:
MacLeod said:

having bolts poppin out on us wasnt too pleasent..

MacLeod said:

K,ppl keep sayin that there's no way the bolt could have came out if was installed properly...well it did so does that mean that were at fault for being concerned about them comin off?...Another thing that keeps poppin up in this is that we werent aware of the dangers of climbin,well when i was like 150 feet in the air i'll tell ya i had some fear in my eyes. Also were not cryin about some hangers spinning the damn thing popped off and came down when nate threw the rope back down...now again im gonna say if the bolts cant come off if theyre placed properly,and they did come out...what does that tell u. 'Mitt' get as ma as u want maybe u were lazy that day but those bolts werent on right.

Your the one who said the bolt popped out on you. I don't think you should stick to bouldering, but maybe reserve your comments for things that you know to be true (did I just say that . As a matter of fact if you want to go out and climb we go out almost every weekend, and you and the rest of the group are welcome as well. Put this behind us and climb on

Mitt

P.S

[MacLeod]

ya man ill give u that 1...and im not too hard headed to say i was wrong about that...i meant hangers popped off and a bolt moved....and ur right climb on is the only thing to do...i just wanna say 1 more time im not commin on here tryin to argue with ne one...i was just expressing concern with the others that were at main face with me...that's all.

-MacLeod

[MacLeod]

Ne ways im headin down to mec to get me some miuras and some dmm live wire quickdraws lol siked... im done with this forum or whatever u call it...my concerns r expressed and what not so y'all have a good 1...peace

-MacLeod

[mathieu]

What I'm reading on this post is such.
-Someone clipped a bolt that was put by a competent person and the climber didn't follow number uno rule of leading , check your protection. Bolts are no excuse to just blindly climb. That attitude is born and bread in gyms. I agree it is freaky to get to a bolt and have it spin and hats off for the new guy to bring it to the others attention. But call an ace when its an ace (I'm bad at analogies but something like that) its not unsafe cause of the bolter it was unsafe because of the climber. How many times do climbers complain about route developpers ALWAYS.
"There is too many bolts"
"There isn't enought bolts"
"The crux is badly protected"
"The clips are hard" etx etc...

And really stop arguing over the fact that the bolt moved, Did anybody think of the other possibility that maybe the rock moved, I mean that's far out and really really like "WOW man" but possible.

Free your mind people. Why rope up. If sport climbing is dangerous than why bother with safety precautions that all have a weak link, get rid of the system that has flawed links is the only solution. So therefore the safest fool proof method is to get rid of those systems. All errors will be the climbers error and then no one is liable except the climber so solo the damn thing and quit bitching at someones work.


Why do you kick my dog and call him F_U:C+K O,F:F.

Like Mitt just said climb on

[Andrew]

Someone lock this thread. No more good can come from this.

Another sum up

1. Bolts don't come out, but they can break if over torqued
2. hangers can spin and maybe come off eventually, but should be tightened by fingers or wrench
3. bolts are always suspect because you don't know what's going on in behind that hanger
4. Rubber washer/seal is useless and should be removed from the bolting process (according to some people's experience of rubber rott)
5. Make sure yo don't climb on someone's project
6. take off the bottom two hangers if the routes still unfinished or stil a project

I hate seeing people get pissed at eachother. We're all climbers, weather it be boulderers, traddies or sport climbers. Experience or none.

The hangers are pretty cheap and you guys live in Halifax or near it, so taking the short drive (unlike our new brunswick 5 hour drive) to MEC for some hardware isn't a big deal.

Someone made the mistake of saying a bolt came out a bit or fell off... well... WOOPS and that is a REALLY big mistake cause those are two very different things, YES.

Some people were really concerned about what they saw and maybe didn't totally understand as well they should be concerned.

The bottom line is, we all love this sport and have concerns for safety and ethics. I think we should all be a little nicer to eachother and try to pick our wording a little more carefully so as not to get people pissy. This is a forum and you can't see the people you're talking to and therefore cannot tell for sure what their mood or tone is. Miscommunications are VERY easy on here.

Play nice people and enjoy the rock we freely climb on.

[martha]

y would i stick to bouldering...im told sumthin by someone who was there and said the bolt moved...u werent there and ur tellin me it didnt....and again stick to bouldering??.....who r u to tell me i sohuldnt rope climb haha...this site seems to b all about personal shots...thats not what im treyin to do...we posted sumthin that was a concern to us and now all the sudden were the bad guys and we shouldnt climb?...ya ok

1. I didn't tell you in particular to stick to bouldering. re read my post on page one....However, if you aren't ready for the dangers of rope climbing and adhearing to Rule #1 which is always Check your Protection..then yeah, maybe you should reconsider.. but you weren't the leader were you?? you were actually on top rope..so why the fear? The fear should have layed with Nate..but I know that he has a solid lead head, I've watched him lead, and he would have been fine, even if the hanger came off while standing at it. These are issues you learn to deal with as a climber. Seriously...try climbing in any area other than NS!!!!

2. I realize that I wasn't there, but since I have been developing and bolting routes for 4 years and you haven't I can tell you that I know how bolts work, how they go in, and I know for a fact that once they are hammered in there is no way to get them out of the rock with the exception of a prybar which wrecks the rock. We saw pictures of the bolts. The Mitt posted them. Did you not look at those? And no, he couldn't have re-fitted them while out taking pictures. It doesn't work like that.

3. I never said you guys are the bad guys, I've been suggesting that you know a little about the subject you talk about. It would be like me going to the mechanic and swearing that I saw a pin go through my engine..whatever the hell that means.

Just please, before you slam someone about their bolting or freak out the community by saying that a 'bolt popped out'..make sure you really know what you are saying.

Otherwise, thanks for the heads up. Keep climbing, rope or otherwise. And go with people who have lots of experience. Come up with Nate and Ben when they come to Freddy to learn some stuff from Fred and I. I love climbing with new people who have more experience than me. I always learn something new.

[MacLeod]

Well im glad to see that theres no hard feelings (as far as i can tell) i just wanna say one more time so its clear i didnt come on here to start ne kinda fights...im just glad that everyone is fairly understanding and that its actually a discussion and not an argument so...sorry to get off on the wrong foot since this is the first thing that i have written about but thanks for the advice and what not...

-MacLeod