Ice Across The Border

[Fred]

I've just been reading the posts on NEICE and it appears the conditions are prime right now for the Dyke and Pinacle. Some are saying better than ever. So if you're looking for some ice nearby over the holidays you might want to think about crossing the border. I know I'm thinking of it. hehe

[Fred]

I'm looking for beta on these two routes. Whatever you guys can feed me.

1) Pinacle Gully (sharp end of rope for Fred)
2) The Black Dyke (no sharp end of rope for Fred on this one)

[justin]

Page with a little info: http://www.summitpost.org/mountains/rou ... ject_id/66

[mathieu]

check the E-guide section in Neice.com both climbs are there. Don't forget your warm socks and belay jacket.

[shawn]

Fred, the crux of both routes will be fighting the crowds. Although these routes are both in, a lot of routes are just forming. Thus limited amounts of ice and mass amounts of people. Although I'm sure quite a bit more is now in decent shape from cold for last few days (Standard should be good now and you'd have no problems with that Fred - do it in 2 pitches with a 60m rope to avoid bottleneck in the cave). High avy danger on the mountain right now. For both routes get there real early. Not sure about you but I don't like climbing ice below others. Both routes feed ice well down on others below. Also it will be VERY slow if you are not there first. Pinnacle is very nice but way overrated if you are wanting to "ice climb". It says 3+ but really more of a 2+ technical grade. But...it is excellent if you are looking for a nice hike in a cool spot with a bit of ice climbing and some potentially wild weather conditions thrown in. Damnation looks sweet but haven't done it yet. Dike I guess is getting pegged already. You will find most routes in NH are like that tho. We don't realize how good we have it here...virgin ice and you can show up at noon and still have your pick of what route to do. Chauvin Guides has a great site with updated ice conditions for NH if you are going. And shouldn't be as busy mid week either. http://www.chauvinguides.com/conditions.htm

[PaulB]

Pinnacle is very nice but way overrated if you are wanting to "ice climb".

If you're gonna make the effort to hike up into the ravine, go for a link up of Central, Pinnacle and one of the other gullies. Do a steeper line to start, simul-climb Pinnacle and solo Central to round out the day. Best done later in the season when the days are longer.

[GregH]

For the Dyke get there early - as in VERY early. Impossible to climb behind people on this route without getting hit and it's a pain to have to wait around. First pitch is a rope stretcher and then some. Normally very thin but easy. Very little if any protection on P1. Might be better when it's thick - don't know. Fixed anchors if I remember correctly. P2 is where the fun starts. Super fun rock traverse to the corner. Rock can be iced up on the traverse to make things more "Sporty". Couple of pins on this traverse I believe. In normal conditions the corner pillar is about 2 feet wide and not very thick. This section is probably 20 or 25 metres (maybe shorter can't really remember). Not vertical - just 80 degrees or so. If conditions are fat you might be able to get in long screws but you should plan on having some stubbies. At the top of the pillar I believe the belay is fixed. P3 is sort of rambly and pretty easy. Just take the path of least resistance up into the trees. With the winds in this area there can be some pretty crazy ice formations - makes for super fun climbing but not stuff you can bash away at. Don't bother rapping the route cause I'm sure there be someone else on it. Walk off is easy.

If conditons are good in the Ravine starting on Pinnacle, downclimbing Central and the doing Yale is a good day for lots of mileage.