About A Rope 5.7+ G-PG *****

[Andrew]

Why is this route rated G-PG? Which part is PG specifically? I plan on leading it for the first time tomorrow (thursday) after work and was interested to know.

Also, any comments, positive or otherwise?

I know most of you would just get up and lead it but I am breaking into 5.7/5.8 trad territory and just would like to be prepared and NOT GET HURT

Climb on.

[martha]

I took a fall on this one at the crux. The move is a little reachy (for me at 5ft3) and after trying it a few times a few different ways I got myself in a position that I couldn't down climb and had to let go. it was safe and the gear bomber. I've done it on top rope a million times, but on lead I just couldn't commit that one. dunno why..but it happens.

I think the climb is G and the crux (top) is definately a commitment. your feet are at your piece as you reach for the next hold. but once you have it in your hands it is no problem to top out. so the fall from that point is clean and protected.

Have fun.

C

[Fred]

it's definitely a tough one to lead onsight

[Andrew]

...but why is it a PG? Where is the bad gear?

[martha]

I think they just mean the crux, where you have gear at your feet and have to commit to the top out. but the rest of it takes gear anywhere.

Careful where you go up. It wanders a bit, and some of the stuff is loose/dirty where the route doesn't go. Chris Hennigar went up it a few months ago and had to re-route the crux due to a hornets nest, so try to scope that out before you head up too...just in case it is up there.

If you do it in one pitch, don't sling the tree for gear or top out the ledge with it on it, just stay on the face to the left of that and go up and left to gain the next ledge where there is a HUGE flake.

If you do it in two pitches, which you may have to if you get a lot of rope drag, then belay from the tree, and then step back out on the face to finish climbing.

Oh yeah, and below the tree ledge, there is a HUGE wobbly block that you have to stand on as it tetters back and forth to get up. but it isn't going anywhere...it just freaks you out a bit. heheheh.

have fun.

cara

[Fred]

I think it's PG because the gear at the crux is below you and not ideal

There also used to be a fixed nut at the crux which is no longer there. That makes it a bit more difficult as well.

[martha]

I think it's PG because the gear at the crux is below you and not ideal

There also used to be a fixed nut at the crux which is no longer there. That makes it a bit more difficult as well.

that is what I mentioned...that the gear is at your feet when pulling the crux...

re: the fixed gear...you can thank Mr. Bowles for that piece missing.

[Fred]

as much as I liked having the piece there myself I think it's better for the sport to not have it in place. Keeping with the traditional ethics of placing your gear ground up is probably a better style.

OMG who just said that?

[martha]

that's my husband!!!

Trad man!! YEAH!!!!!!!!!

[Andrew]

Adam Baxter and I led this route around 7pm tonight. I led the first pitch and Adam led the second pitch and then it got dark as we hiked out.

I found the route pretty relaxed but there were a few somewhat tricky spots but not bad. The last bit on the first pitch where you have to climb that blank face upto the big tree... kinda interesting but I gotter done.

Adam had to go left of the "Lightening Bolt" crack where the hornets nest is and we saw a few JUMBO hornets on the route. Stepping out fro the tree is a little unnerving until you realize there are large holds

[Fred]

It's nice to do it in one pitch too if you have enough gear and some runners. Just trent diagonaly left from the teetering block.