Climb Eastern Canada

by **john** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 2:45 pm

has anyone been down to cape clear recently, how is the last section of road?

by **The Mitt** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 3:36 pm

Was there the end of last year, the last section is getting pretty bad. I would not take a car or at least a car I like.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 3:42 pm

how long is the hike if you can't drive right up to the cliff?

by **The Mitt** » Wed Aug 17, 2005 3:44 pm

Maybe 2-3 hours, you should be able to get a local to give you a lift and leave your car at the trail head. When are you headding up I may join you.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:08 am

maybe next weekend

How is the approach to the top of Wave Wall. Is there a trail? Or is there room to flag a trail? How far from the top of the main wall and how treturous? I'd be interested in scoping out that wall. Maybe put up a line or two. But I don't want to approach from the bottom. I'd like to have a rap route down the middle somewhere if it's easy access to the top. That way I can scope out the nicer lines before attacking a project. Any ideas how high Wave Wall is?

by **Fred** » Thu Aug 18, 2005 9:18 am

help!!!

I can't seem to find the Cape Clear webpage anymore

by **The Mitt** » Thu Aug 18, 2005 2:15 pm

I let the DNS run out, it will be back up tonight.

Mitt

by **kate** » Thu Aug 18, 2005 8:24 pm

hey Fred,
are you bringing a posse from NB to Cape Clear next weekend, or is it just you and John (Bowles, I assume)?

kate

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:33 am

we'd like to get a posse together but it's hard to convince the people around here to drive 8 hours to clean routes. I'm all over it when I hear that but hey.

We aren't sure if we are going yet next weekend but we'd like to. I guess that 2 hour kike might be a deciding factor. Anyone with 4x4?

I've got my eyes on the Wave Wall

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:38 am

http://www.cape-clear.climbing.themostwebhost.com/

thx Mitt

it's back up

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 7:47 am

This is the line that I have my eye on (marked with arrow on photo). It looks like a big long corner. Blow up the photo and look in the shade. It looks rad.

http://www.beta-source.com/images/Temp/mega1.jpg

Has anyone seen it? So I guess Shawn put up a route that exits this wall without hiking around. I hear it's quite the adventure if you choose to leave on foot. Is this new route info available? I hear it goes at 5.10? I'm always up for taking the easy way out.

On the same photo I also marked what looks like a nice long arete (left line)

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 8:22 am

Is Phallus Wall sorta behind Wave Wall? From the NS Rock guidebook it looks like there's a big gully between Main Wall and Wave Wall.

Also, is this approach to Wave Wall feasible.
http://www.beta-source.com/images/Temp/capeclear3.jpg

by **Zamboni** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:32 am

First link dosn't work.

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 9:36 am

It was working a minute ago. Must be something on the server end.

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:02 pm

That is the only approach to the wave wall. The route that you are looking at looks awesome, and should go with mainly gear, however getting over there is a major pain in the ass. That whole area at the top of the route has a bunch of 8 - 20 foot faces and lots of trees. The line looks to be worth the pain. From a distance it looks clean but its not.

Mitt

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:04 pm

There are a couple of areas that look like they would have ice at about 200-300 feet. I am going to try and get a skidoo this winter and go out there.

Sean

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:17 pm

I heard it was relatively easy to get to the base of the Head Wall. From there, can you go over to the base of Wave Wall? If you were to do it ground-up that is?

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 12:25 pm

The Mitt wrote:That is the only approach to the wave wall. The route that you are looking at looks awesome, and should go with mainly gear

Yeah I hope there is a stellar layback crack in that corner. Can't tell from the photos though. Typicaly granite would have a corner crack from this type of feature but who knows. Looks like there is a vertical crack up top too on the slabby part just below the ledge that has trees on it. I suspect the bulgy start below the vertical overhanging bulge might be difficult to access though. Looks like there is a small dihedral about 20ft left and down of the arrow I marked off.

I'm stoked! last one there is a rotten egg

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:47 pm

Getting to the base of the headwall is easy but you cannot hike to the base of the wave from there as the scree slop is at about 75 deg. The one rout I would like to get to is Batmans face on the left wall. Take a look at the picture and see if you can see it. Almost in the middle of the first image of the left wall.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 1:59 pm

so how about currling up around the right side of Wave Wall and then coming to the base from the right or would you have to go too far?

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:03 pm

The Mitt wrote:The one rout I would like to get to is Batmans face on the left wall. Take a look at the picture and see if you can see it. Almost in the middle of the first image of the left wall.

looks like a big version of "It's a way of life" Left trending flake except I suspect this is more of big ass layback corner. Looks sweet. It even looks as though it continues to the ground behind the tree in the photo. Probably face climbing for the little section at the top though.

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:54 pm

I believe there are only 2 ways to get to that route. Sean T may be able to correct me on this.
1. From the Top follow the route that you pointed out on the picture, bring lots of rope and do multiple short raps to get to the top of that route. Rap and clean. climb out on this route or Sean T's. This would be and extremely long day and huge amounts of rope.

2. Rap Sean T's route, hike to new route and clean while climbing. Could be dangerous as some sections have loose rock the size of toasters and microwaves. and once again a very long day.

Either way sounds like fun

Mitt

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:55 pm

I'm putting my order in for 27 hour days that weekend.

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 2:57 pm

LOL, sherpas would be nice. Can you get those and seige it?

Mitt

by **Fred** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:02 pm

if only slave labor were still legal...

I'd send my 'garcon' to clean the routes and build me a lodge. What's that garcon? Your lungs are full of lichen? Don't worry young lad, it's not harmfull to your health.

by **Mountain_Marc** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:10 pm

Any ice up there?

by **The Teth** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:24 pm

I will be in Mabou this weekend, but I doubt my wife will let me take the short detour. So close, yet still so far away. I would love to see Cape Clear.

Teth

by **The Mitt** » Fri Aug 19, 2005 3:35 pm

My wife is from a town about 20 min away, I spoke to some of the guys who skidoo up there and they say yes, but is it climbable? Dunno.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 1:13 pm

Can anyone tell me if this line (in blue) looks do-able in terms of number of pitches and heights. I have no idea of the height of this wall except it's 300ft or so. The line in green is Shaw T's route I believe. So if the height of the bottom pitch of his is about 30m then the corner pitch I've marked up might be more than 30m I suspect. Also, the area in purple looks like it might have some potential if that ledge below can be somewhat safely traversed/traveled.

by **The Mitt** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 3:32 pm

From what I remember the line looks great, getting set up to rap and clean will be a nightmare. I am willing to help

Mitt

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