Gunks

[Fred]

I think I already posted a similar message but I can't seem to find it.

I'm looking for beta for the Gunks. Please list all the routes we should get on when we go down there.

any help would be greatly appreciated. thx

[Matt Peck]

Im sure you've done them, Fred, but
Hi E
Madam G
Classic
Horseman.

Loved them.

[PaulB]

Gelsa
Hawk
Shockley's Ceiling
Arrow
CCK
Bonnie's Roof
Something Interesting
Son of Easy O
Drunkard's Delight

Tips:

- Avoid climbing there on the weekend

- When you think you can't find a hold, reach just a bit further and you'll find one, especially when reaching blindly over a roof.

- Watch out for copperhead snakes on warm, sunny ledges

- Tricams are very useful

[Fred]

Im sure you've done them, Fred, but
Hi E
Madam G
Classic
Horseman.

Loved them.

The only one I've done on this list is Horseman. But I plan to bag all these on my trip in two weeks.

Anyone else interested in coming down?

thx for the info

[Fred]

Avoid climbing there on the weekend

We plan to go to the traps on Th and Fri

Do you have any experience with going to Near Traps on weekends? still busy? routes to climb over there?

[PaulB]

The Near Trapps are generally less busy than the Trapps, but any of the "classics" (e.g. Gelsa, Disneyland) will most likley have line ups on the weekend. I'd suggest getting there early, or waiting until the late afternoon/evening when the day trippers have gone back to NYC.

Lots of good info at Gunks.com. The route finder is neat.

[granite_grrl]

Okay, I keep meaning to go to the Gunks, but I only ever have the weekends off. People who keep saying "oh, try to avoid going there on the weekends" keep putting me of from heading there. Is it really that bad on the weekends? Lines aren't always the worst...I've waited in lines before in J-Tree and Red Rocks. Would it be any worse than those places?

[Fred]

it's about the same as typical busy crags.

We went on the long thanksgiving weekend last year and there might have been one group on a route, one groupe waiting and us next in line to do a classic. Keep in mind that there are like 400 routes at the Traps alone. Just don't get on the classics.

here is a list I found on the www

[mathieu]

gunks.com has a must do list that is decent, i've only done 2 5.6 routes so I can only give you easy grade routes but here goes.

I'm not sure on the spelling but it looks something like:

Yam Yam Yaba Ya (Near Trapps)
At 5.3 its a nice route that could be free on a weekend morning after you run and go do Gelsa first.

Sixish (Trapps)
Where else do you have a route that clocks in at 5.4+ and you get to the top of the 2nd pitch and say "WTF I have to go throught that roof!"

Bunny (Trapps)
My best memory of the gunks is getting scared shitless on a route called "Bunny".

Belly Roll (TRapps)
Try to do it slylishly, I dare you!!

Dennis (Trapps)
Really nice route. Excellent top-out and recommend doing it in one long pitch.

Beginners Delight (Trapps)
DO IT DO IT!!

My experience with the gunks is do the routes at the Trapps first during the week, and when the weekend monkey's rolls in then go to the near trapps and don't have expectations of climbing much. I think i've been there 3 or 4 times and only climbed one weekend day. Weekend days are called travel days in my book. Oh and don't stay at the public campground on friday or saturday night if you want a good night sleep. We were kept awake by the sound of drunken talking climbers who don't shut up about last weeks R rated climb they did and that really climbers who climb anything under 5.10 or climb G routes are all pansies. I bet those clowns now all have beer guts and play online poker, wankers! (no no I'm not bitter about that 'experience')

[granite_grrl]

Hey Fred, when you heading down there again?? I'm thinking that me and my bf might head down to the Gunks over labour day weekend, and (if I can convince the bf) we may stay for the entire week after too.

I'm still a little hesitent about the crowds though , but would any other areas in the north-east states be any better?

[Fred]

we are going Thursday and Firday before the labor day weekend and staying untill Monday.

The crowds aren't that bad in my opinion. Sure it's busy but just make it a longer day and sit around more. You'll still get to climb lots.

We plan to stay at the multiple use (abuse) area.

[martha]

Hey Fred, when you heading down there again?? I'm thinking that me and my bf might head down to the Gunks over labour day weekend, and (if I can convince the bf) we may stay for the entire week after too.

I'm still a little hesitent about the crowds though , but would any other areas in the north-east states be any better?

It is like climbing in Kamouraska on a weekend. Just lots of people around on all the classics.

the Multiple use area is okay for camping, but can get loud. The other campgrounds are nice, but quite a drive from the crag (20 min) and on the other side of town. Not to mention they are 15$ a night US for a tent!! But they do have showers etc.

Hopefully we'll see you down there!!

Cara

[Matt Peck]

Isnt that climb called Yum Yum Yab Yum Mat? Or is that another one that makes fun of it? I rember climbing that one last year with you I think. Which one is the climb that has the crazy traverse along the top of the overhang on the last pitch? That one you protected the start with that pink tricam I spent forever trying to clean.
Going to hit Hi E this time.

[martha]

hell yes! Hi E. woooot.... I can't wait to get the adrenaline pumping on that one!!!

I wonder if I will get the FFPA? ...first free pregnant ascent...

hahahahaha....

[mathieu]

Isnt that climb called Yum Yum Yab Yum Mat? Or is that another one that makes fun of it? I rember climbing that one last year with you I think. Which one is the climb that has the crazy traverse along the top of the overhang on the last pitch? That one you protected the start with that pink tricam I spent forever trying to clean.
Going to hit Hi E this time.

That's the one. I can't remember the pink tri cam but all I remember is that I wish I hadn't traversed left 20ft, climbed up 20 ft then traverse right 40ft. Rope drag from hell. That was our fault, poor communication led to belay stations in weird spot. Oh well fun trip. RIGHTEOUS!!!

[Matt Peck]

yeah, that was fun.
What was I thinking?
Imagine pulling that roof?

[granite_grrl]

Yea-haw! Vacation time is in for approval, and I see no reason for them not to give it to me. Gunks here I come!

Rebecca

[martha]

Cool, we'll see you there. look for our car...silver VW golf NB plates.

should be a fun weekend!!

[Fred]

or just listen for Cara

[Matt Peck]

BWAHAHAHAHAH!~
"mumble mumble mumble ZIP CROTCH mumble mumble.....METOLIUS IS BETTER mumble mumble mumble.....TENSION!"
good stuff

[Fred]

can you translate that please Matt. I have no idea what you are trying to say.

[martha]

Hey! I don't normally ask for tension. Except now that i'm pregnant I don't want to take any falls unnecessarily. HOWEVER, I do think that my zip crotch pants are the shiznit AND I do like metolious TCU's, but prefer BD camalots to the power cams.

Not that you are any less a gear whore than me Matt...Mr. I'm so impressed with the glow in the dark zipper tags on my TNF tent.

[mathieu]

Hey! I don't normally ask for tension. Except now that i'm pregnant I don't want to take any falls unnecessarily. HOWEVER, I do think that my zip crotch pants are the shiznit AND I do like metolious TCU's, but prefer BD camalots to the power cams.

Just like Matt said.

Also, I somewhat recall a day at Kamouraska on "Les Nouveau Marier" where a complaint session lasted from the first bolt all the way to the anchor. The word tension came up a few times and I also recall a lot of quickdraw grabbing.

[mitchleblanc]

Hey! I don't normally ask for tension. Except now that i'm pregnant I don't want to take any falls unnecessarily. HOWEVER, I do think that my zip crotch pants are the shiznit AND I do like metolious TCU's, but prefer BD camalots to the power cams.

Not that you are any less a gear whore than me Matt...Mr. I'm so impressed with the glow in the dark zipper tags on my TNF tent.

Should you be climbing if you're worried about taking falls because you're pregnant????????????????

[Fred]

yeah which is why she's only toproping and not lead belaying. She's pregnant, not sick. Women are actualy encouraged to stay fit during pregnancy. Runners will often run right up to 7 or 8 months.

[martha]

Also, I somewhat recall a day at Kamouraska on "Les Nouveau Marier" where a complaint session lasted from the first bolt all the way to the anchor. The word tension came up a few times and I also recall a lot of quickdraw grabbing.

mat...that was 2 years ago, and I have climbed that route since and had no troubles. But that first time...holy it seemed reachy! and it was on Day 4 of a pretty busy climbing trip. We were all spent.

But I've seen you grab draws and bail on stuff too.. even easier than "les Nouveau Marier"...so lets not play that game. It is all how you feel on the day. you know that as well as I do.

Mitch... I'm not worried about falling, but if my belayer hasn't reeled in the slack and I have a loop of slack hanging down, I'll call 'up rope' or 'tension' just in case I do fall. On an easy climb, I don't worry about it, but on harder climbs where i 'might' fall..it isn't worth taking a big one cause my belayer isn't getting the rope up. Why take the risk..it is easier to ask for tension. Just like I'm only lead belaying on easy climbs that I know the leader won't fall on. I don't want to catch a big whipper. It probably wouldn't hurt the baby, but WHY take the risk.

Leading on the other hand is different...i only lead what I know I won't fall on. Either stuff I've done a million times on lead, regardless of grade, like the climbs in St. Andrews or easy trad like we'll be doing in the Gunks.

Like Fred said. I'm pregnant. not sick.

[granite_grrl]

Question on guidebooks for the Gunks: Picked up both Dick William's new book (grey dick, I think they refer to it as) and Todd Swain's book by Falcon. I leafed through both books, William's looks to be superior (plus I've used Falcon Guides by Swain before....I've yet to be impressed with one), but I picked up the Swain one becuase it had routes for the Near Trapps and Millbrook.

I know the Trapps can keep me busy the entire time, but I was thinking it oculd be good to head these other places, get on some routes a little further out of the way, to avoid the worst of the crowds next weekend. Should I just keep with the Trapps and return Swain's book to the store, or is it a worth while companion with William's book?

Rebecca

[Fred]

there are about 500 routes at the Trapps alone. I'd say just keep the Swain and return the other one. I've used the Swain and it's not bad.

[mathieu]

Fred do you have the Williams book or just Swains? Like Rebeca said the William book i superior. We had both of them last time I went and Swain's book quickly found a home at the bottom of my pack.

Rebeca I would keep both guidebooks, unless rent is tight I always find guidebook a good investment.

Well have fun you guys and do beginners delight, i'll be very if you come back and said "It wasn't on our list".

[Fred]

beginners delight
beginners delight
beginners delight

ok check. I've uploaded it to my ram.

Yeah I only have Swain. But if I don't have the other one then I can say Swain works great. hehe