Breaking Grades

[Matt Peck]

Allright, so after a long season of non climbing, I'm looking to get back into the leading game to get in shape for ice. Having lead Trad for a couple of years now, I've never been able to push into the 5.8-9 range comfortably (in Welsford level grades), and every season find myself scrabbling for a good chunk of the time on .7's. My question is, what are good climbs there that are good intro's for the grades .7,8 & 9?
So far I've done
Salt&Pepper
Dash
Ejaculator
Yosimite Sam
Adventre Pedestre
Mamalian
Mental Hygene (?)
About a Rope
Moonshine

And I guess I'm looking for some more good routes like these. It just seems like I have run out of a routes in these grades, and I know it's not true.

Thanks Y'all. Hope to be seein/climbing with ya soon.

[Fred]

Cheeckbone
-Smoking Crack
-Whiter Shade of Pale (stout 5.6 more like 5.
-Dynamic Duo (easy for a 5.9 and well protected with clean falls)
-Spiderman (definitely not R rated as the guidebook says)
-Tut's Tomb (scope out gear first)
-Shreaded Wheat (go up and right to clip the bolt then come back and do the route straight on. You'll know what I mean when you get there)
-Warm and Sultry (stout lead and crux is a bit intimidating because you are past your last piece by about 4-5 ft but the fall is clean and gear is bomber)

You should get into leading more of the difficult mixed climbs like (Joint Venture, Talasmasaca, Witches, D-day, The Waltz) and that will help you out a lot when it comes to getting on full gear routes. Most of them offer the safety of bolts through the hard sections.

Routes I would avoid:
- Curried Recollection (death route and total sandbag)
- Pad de Deux (tough for it's grade and gear is tricky)
- Telefunken (scary and sketchy gear in mid section)
- Trundling (well... you know why LOL)

[PaulB]

It may help if you pick a specific goal such as "I want to lead Warm & Sultry by the end of October." Lead a bunch of 5.6, 5.7 & 5.8 routes and TR (or ever better, second) some 5.9 & 5.10 routes to get prepped. Even if you lead some routes more than once, it's all mileage, which is what gives you confidence. By the time you step up to accomplish your goal, it'll seem easy.

[jeremy]

My approach to climbing has always been jump in with both feet. I know you know how to place good gear matt, so just go up to warm and sultry (or any other 5.9 that takes good gear) and do it. When you surprise yourself by doing it, you will gain so much confidence. When you get to the point where you keep pushing your grade limits you open a whole new door to climbing. And don't be afraid to try hard routes that you may have to back off of.

I only recommend this to someone who knows how to place good gear, and keep a cool head.

jeremy

[mitchleblanc]

Why don't you analyze why you are failing? Are you scared? Is your pro placement bad? Are you unable to figure out sequences? That might be just a matter of experience and putting in more time climbing, building up a better base.. Don't put too much importance on the grade.. as Jeremy said, who cares what the grade is if you can just back off without hurting yourself?

But maybe you're pumping off or unable to pull off moves? In that case why not leave the trad rack behind and put up a top-rope on a few things that are harder than what you're aiming for, and getting fitter. You'll *always* be leading trad at a lower level than your best top-roping or sport climbing grade, so maybe (if climbing harder is your goal) you should focus more on strength and technique?

Just a thought?

[Matt Peck]

I suppose it is a matter of amassing more climbing experience. I've done a number of the trade routes in wesford, and have gotten in trouble trying to find new stuff to lead that is within my level. (read as, attempting chossy nightmares) I enjoy climbing, but there is something about leading especially that piques my interest. I know that I can place gear well, and I don't think my technique is too bad, there is an element of intimidation, though more about falling in the first twenty feet and decking than anything else. We need to get another traddie weekend going. Thanks for the advice everybody.