going climbing next week, some inputs on location

[speedsl]

Me and my body are going climbing next week for couple days and we wanted to go to New Brunswick. we don't really know the area, but that would be cool to get some good places to go...

thanks in advance

[Andrew]

The ONLY place to go, if you want your trip to count, is to Cochrane Lane in Welsford, NB.

You MAY be able to get a guidebook from the Irving on Highway 7 in Welsford. If not, Fred Berube may have some left.

It's mainly trad but some sport and mixed (bolts+natural). 300+ routes, most of which are awesome. Nearly always empty, esp. during the weekdays. Quality pink granite.

If I'm way off on what you were looking for... oops.

Fred and Cara will give you route suggestions but here are mine:

Sleeping Beauty 5.10c sport (Exfoliated Wall)
Chocolate Eclair 5.8 sport (Exfoliated Wall)
Trouble with Lichen 5.11 (Exfoliated)
Fern Gully 5.8 trad (Exfoliated)
Anything on the right end of Joe's Garage
Yosemite Sam 5.8 sport + 1 nut (Upper Tier)
Bugs Bunny 5.9 sport (Upper Tier)
Warm and Sultry 5.8/5.9 trad (Minkey)


... plenty more but check those out...

[speedsl]

right on...thank you for the info

[vbpad]

yes as of last night there were 2 guidebooks left at the irving and go to cochrane lane as it is the best you can get around here

[Fred]

yes as of last night there were 2 guidebooks left at the irving and go to cochrane lane as it is the best you can get around here

holly crap! I just dropped those off on Friday. Did you ask if they had more cause they might not have put them all out on display?

[martha]

The ONLY place to go, if you want your trip to count, is to Cochrane Lane in Welsford, NB.

I wouldn't say that Cochrane lane is the ONLY place to go. You could spend a day in St. Andrews at Greenlaw if you are interested in Sport climbing.

5.6 - 5.12+ sport.

Super nice lines. worth the drive if you are already in the area.

Otherwise, like andrew said, Welsford is it. Get a guidebook for sure. the area isn't easy to find your way around at first. There are only about 15 all sport routes and they are harder grades. Your easier grades will be all trad and some mixed, but the mixed routes in welsford for the most part have more gear than bolts.

It is an awesome spot. we'll be there all weekend so come check it out.

Cheers.

[vbpad]

well they didn't have alot of room on the shelves so they proboly have some out back

[speedsl]

I will be climbing with Climberwannabe and we both pretty much suck... as in we dont lead (I dont want to come right out and say top rope, but...). Is Welsford ok for this?

[martha]

Okay, so St. andrews is out because you have to lead to get to the top of the cliff to set more topropes.

Welsford is fine for top roping.

The best areas for it are:

Joes Garage
Exfoliated
Pyramid (some climbs)
Kings Chamber
Upper Tier

finding the top rope locations can be tricky even with the Guide book.

When will you be around so that someone could give you a quick tour?

Be sure you are comfortable setting anchors on bolts and trees.

[climberwannabe]

Thanks Martha, we are totally fine setting anchors... we just cant climb worth a damn! The trip will be next week, Tuesday-Thursday. Most likely be camping, as long as we can camp out there???? So to clarify we are looking for a site to climb/camp for 2-3 days.

[vbpad]

cochrane lane is good for that campsite and everyting

[Fred]

Don't forget... you'll need to get a daypass at Petersville Hill. You can camp at the back of the farmer's field. There's a nice spot in the big pine trees just below the cemetery.

[martha]

Always keep your dogs on a leash or the farmer gets upset due to his animals getting frightened...

and also NO FIRES.

you will have to get a day pass for each day you are there, not just one to cover the entire time.

cheers.

[Shawn B]

Fred, are you certain it is ok to camp there overnight? I know the farmer doesn't care but does Gagetown?

And CWB, just because you toprope doesn't mean you suck. Are you having fun? Are you honest with yourself and others about what you do and have done? Everybody has to learn somehow. Some people never lead nor do they have the desire to lead. Climbing is personal, your style is just that...your's..and so long as you don't go spraying about all that you did when you really didn't...who cares. If you had fun, you win.

[martha]

Fred and I have gone down and gotten a day pass and told them we were camping out overnight and they had no problems. Their only request was that we went back in the morning to renew our day pass.

[speedsl]

ok, we are not pro, but we don't suck as much as climberwannabe is saying...just so we are on the sam epage here...

[Fred]

Fred, are you certain it is ok to camp there overnight? I know the farmer doesn't care but does Gagetown?

I'm not sure. I think the farmer has an agreement to use the field up to the tree line but I don't know how that applies to us. I think Rock and Ice members have free use of the entire area but I'm not sure how it applies to day pass holders.

Perhaps John can better answer this question.

[martha]

John is away until next week. He may or may not have internet access. I am not sure.

[Fred]

I'm sure it's not a problem but if someone asks you to move camp simply go ask the farmer (Austin) if you can move your camp to the other side of the boundary line onto his land (approx 200yds).

[jeremy]

We have to renew our day pass every day? I thought we could say we were staying for a few days and that was cool....

jeremy

[martha]

it is okay with the higher ups, but some of the information doesn't get communicated very well with the commisionaire in the building in petersville.

John is working on cleaning some of that stuff up. so in the meantime we just have to keep doing that.

[jeremy]

hey as long as we can climb there i'm happy. I always head to the store for coffee in the morning, whats another 5 mins down the road.....

jeremy

[Fred]

mmmmmmmmm coffee......... sweet nectar of life mmmmmmmmm

[climberwannabe]

Sorry Speedsl. EVERYONE ON THIS FORUM: Speedsl does NOT suck. He is great. I dont want anyone walking away from this forum saying: Haha, those guys SUCK! Cause that just wouldnt be right now would it.


And I dont think I suck, cause my mom is always telling me that I am the best climber around!

Hey I dont really understand this whole day pass thing... who do I get this from? How much notice do I need? We were just hoping to have a no hastle 2 day climbing/camping excursion.

[Fred]

Welsford's Cochrane Lane Cliffs are in the CFB Gagetown training area. Read previous forum discussion to get more info aboud recent access issues.

It's no hassel to get a day pass. Simply drive North (10min) on Highway 7 toward Fredericton and stop in at Petersville Hill (sign on highway). Stop at the gate and get a day pass from the commissionair.

They are patroling the area so please respect their policies.

[martha]

When you ask for the pass ...just say you are going climbing in Area 40. that is where the cliffs are. They will ask your and your partners name and will want your license plate number. They will give you a card for your window and a piece of paper that they would like for you to carry on your person while up climbing.

It is no hassel at all.

[climberwannabe]

I think you stated earlier that there is no fires allowed either, this is correct right?

[Fred]

I think you stated earlier that there is no fires allowed either, this is correct right?

you betcha

the last person who made a fire had to deal with Martha

[martha]

I think you stated earlier that there is no fires allowed either, this is correct right?

you betcha

the last person who made a fire had to deal with Martha

That is a true story. I'm not very nice to people who have fires up there. Especially since it is in the guidebook AND written on a sign on the fence by where you park that there are NO fires allowed.

the Farmer will call the Ranger and you'll find yourself with a Big Fat Fine. But that is really a small problem compared to dealing with myself or other climbers. hehehe

You'll also see when you get there that the camping area is under a bunch of big old pine trees so the ground cover is dried up fallen pine needles. Exactly the kind of ground that would catch fire in about 2 seconds. You have to be sure to clear a spot when you light your stove too.

Cheers!!

[Andrew]

Cara,

I understand that fires aren't allowed in the trees near the field, but what about up on Exfoliated Campground area where there's a fire-pit? I'm not saying im gonna have a fire there, just wondering.

Andrew

I think you stated earlier that there is no fires allowed either, this is correct right?

you betcha

the last person who made a fire had to deal with Martha

That is a true story. I'm not very nice to people who have fires up there. Especially since it is in the guidebook AND written on a sign on the fence by where you park that there are NO fires allowed.

the Farmer will call the Ranger and you'll find yourself with a Big Fat Fine. But that is really a small problem compared to dealing with myself or other climbers. hehehe

You'll also see when you get there that the camping area is under a bunch of big old pine trees so the ground cover is dried up fallen pine needles. Exactly the kind of ground that would catch fire in about 2 seconds. You have to be sure to clear a spot when you light your stove too.

Cheers!!