Easter Island

[peter]

Thom and I cleaned the "vegetated crack" that completes "Oh, I See" (5. and "Sidetracked" (5.7+), at Easter Island. Nice climbs on a lovely day; nasty sunburn (I can't be taught).

Having now led "Oh, I See", rather than just top-roped it, I would say it could get an "R" rating for the slab moves above the "chasm of doom". Assuming your last piece in the small flake above the "chasm" holds, you are still looking at a 20' fall.

Nice climb though. Highly recommended by the "Kings of 5.7".

[granite_grrl]

[quote="peter"]Having now led "Oh, I See", rather than just top-roped it, I would say it could get an "R" rating for the slab moves above the "chasm of doom". Assuming your last piece in the small flake above the "chasm" holds, you are still looking at a 20' fall.[\quote]

I don't know the climb, but I'm going to start a disscussion on protection ratings. I was at the Daks for the first time last weekend, thought that a 5.6 multi-pitch with a "satisfactory" gear rating would be a good intro. I had some really long runouts over some pretty sketchy gear. I stuck with "excellent" for gear ratings for the rest of the weekend.

I've also ran out some stuff much further than 20' on easy ground out at Red Rocks. One climb got a "G" rating, the other "PG".

I guess at first glance giving the route an "R" rating when you have to run it out at the very top seems a little unreasonable....but I guess that 1) I have no idea how long the route actually is, 2)how good the gear is before the runout and 3) just how many nasty things you might hit on the way down.

There are also the differences in areas and the gear ratings, and I guess it's been a while since I've climbed there (and I only just started getting into leading when I left). If you're really looking at nasty fall potential would putting a bolt in at the slab be a good option??

Rebecca

[peter]

Looking at the guidebook again, Sean did give it a "PG-" rating, with a description of that rating at the outset which seems to say, "pro is satisfactory, but only if you don't fall". Fair warning. I will have to bring my bifocals next time, and read the fine print.

[climberwannabe]

Where is this Easter Island you speak of?

[granite_grrl]

Where is this Easter Island you speak of?

It's not actually an island...its a wall near Terrance Bay, accessed by boat. From what I remember its near the homes on Nice View Dr, but the paddle there is pretty easy.

All that info should be in Sean C.'s book.

[chameleon]

Man, does Sean C.'s book kick ass!!!

[martha]

Man, does Sean C.'s book kick ass!!!

why yes Chameleon...it sure does.

[chameleon]

Busted!!

[dr. dre]

chameleon,
interested in bouldering at any point soon?
dr. dre

[Fred]

Oh great master Chamelon you must teach me your ways for our next welsford guidebook. Teach me oh great one.

man the last prints of the Welsford guidebook cost me $13 each. LOL The guy at the Irving is making 5$ on every book and I"m only making $2. How does that work eh? I need to find a better set-up.

any ideas? I've been thinking Rock Fax but we don't have enough copies sold for that I think. I've also been thinking of going the way Zig did with the bouldering in Halifax guidebooks.

[chameleon]

Patience, my young Padawan learner. You will reach levels of greatness in the fullness of time.

And Doctor, bouldering might just be in order. I'm hoping to get on a rope this weekend but if that doesn't pan out I might scramble on those little rocks. Are you heading to the island (Dover, not Easter)?

[dr. dre]

no specific plans...

maybe duck head. ???
dover would be good if it's not too hot.