Climb Eastern Canada

by **martha** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 9:28 pm

We spent two full days climbing in Clifton this weekend. We saw only 2 other climbers on Saturday and 1 other climber on sunday. The mosquitos were hungry at the campsite, but the climbing was spectacular.

Fred and I got in a ton of pitches and some really really nice lines. Chris and Richard did another bunch and all said the same, the rock is super quality and most of the routes are awesome.

We ended the weekend with a swim in Parks Pond and a semi-interesting drive home with one passenger fighting car sickness/heat stroke (damn it was hot this weekend) and other getting stung by a wasp.

Good times!!!

How was everyone elses weekend?

by **Andrew** » Sun Jul 24, 2005 11:53 pm

A bunch of us went down to Kamouraska this weekend. Saturday was great in the morning and early afternoon. Thunder and rain dumped on us in the early afternoon, but cleared up long enough for a few more routes and the hike out. It downpoured once we got to the cars.

Sunday was better weather, but a little more hot. Got a few more routes in and left to get home by 10:30pm.

Thanks go to Adam and Brian for inviting me, even though on 1-day notice

by **Fred** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:53 am

Kamou is a wicked place eh? What routes did you get on?

by **martha** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 7:57 am

yeah, Kamouraska is great. was it super busy this weekend or was it okay?

Great thing about that place is you can climb a lot of the routes even after a rain fall as they are overhanging enough they don't get super wet.

I assume you lead lots? great spot for that with the bolts so close.

Hard to believe it rained there considering what a hot blazing weekend we had. At least it wasn't humid.

by **jeremy** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 1:49 pm

what routes got done in clifton? The more we go there the more we realize how great a spot it is, and I'm only talking about eagles bluff! Theres so much more.

Look at the sport linegait of power 5.12a. We rappelled down over it one time. Its so crimpy and exposed. Its one of the classics for sure.

jeremy

by **Fred** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 2:41 pm

oh man we did so much. That place has TONS of routes with no one around. Wow! what a place! We are headed back down this weekend.

Here are some of the "must do" routes at Eagles that we did this weekend.

Eagles Gift 5.9 sport a bit sandbaged with some crazy overhanging exposed moves on jugs near the top. What a fabulous line.

Blaze of Glory 5.10d mixed (mostly sport, one piece). I onsighted this one after being talked into not trying it on TR first. I'm glad I didn't. One of the nicest routes around in my opinion. Positive holds as opposed to those Clifton tweakers.

Highlander 5.10b (mixed, sport on the hard parts and mixed with 5.7 moves) This route is amazing. Everyone should definitely do the first pitch for sure which is very well protected and only goes at about 5.8-5.9. The second pitch with crux up high on tweakers is scary but falls are clean. I felt it was a bit runout and scary but it was also blistering hot and the friction sucked. A superb route regardless. Big thumbs up.

Slice of the Gunks 5.8 trad great gear. Sweet line! Felt more like 5.6.

The second day we went to Parks Pond and did a bunch of lines there. The slabs are scary and poorly protected. Super scary in the warm sun. We did two or three nicer vertical routes in the mid section that were pretty fun. One was called "First Aid" which was awesome. Don't know the name of the others.

Anywho. That's my report. Back to Bar Harbor and Clifton again this weekend I think. We'll be camping at Eagles. Hope to see you all there.

by **Andrew** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 3:56 pm

re: What Routes did you do?

Cara,

I climbed the following routes:

1 - J'ai pas peur 5.8+ (TR)
2 - Le sexe des anges 5.7 (TR)
3 - Lache lousse 5.7 (2nd)
4 - Petite vite 5.10a (TR)
5 - Bonsai 5.8 (TR)
6 - Le neouveau nez 5.5 (LEAD)
7 - Le Menbur 5.5 (LEAD) not sure on the name's spelling

This was basically my first day out climbing since september last year. Very nice place. Takes some time to get use to the rock's lack of texture as I've only really climbed on granite.

by **Jamie Simpson** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 4:34 pm

Well - I had Greenlaw all to myself (and a few friends). One friend on-sighted salted jesus in bare feet (on TR) - his second time climbing.

Then I broke a hold on Space Invaders (sorry Fred!) - but I think it'll still go.

Almost finished bolting another line to the left of Space Invaders (any takers to test out the grade???).

Clifton - "Wheaties" is fun, as in 'I'm scared as hell but will think it's fun once I'm off it' kind of fun. Slab lovers would like it.

Jamie

by **martha** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:37 pm

Andrew wrote:re: What Routes did you do?

Cara,

I climbed the following routes:

1 - J'ai pas peur 5.8+ (TR)
2 - Le sexe des anges 5.7 (TR)
3 - Lache lousse 5.7 (2nd)
4 - Petite vite 5.10a (TR)
5 - Bonsai 5.8 (TR)
6 - Le neouveau nez 5.5 (LEAD)
7 - Le Menbur 5.5 (LEAD) not sure on the name's spelling

This was basically my first day out climbing since september last year. Very nice place. Takes some time to get use to the rock's lack of texture as I've only really climbed on granite.

You should have lead the others Andrew. the grades are so soft in Kamouraska, Bonsai, le sexe des anges, j'ai pas peur and petite vite are all probably 1 grade less in difficulty compared to Welsford grades. Plus with the bolts so close, it would have been a great spot to take some first falls!!

Sounds like you climbed mostly in the warm up area except for le nouveau nez and Le menhir. You didn't do the stuff on the boulders like Prelude 5.9, La diagonale du fou 5.9 and other classics like Tintin au Tibet 5.9, Prestation Aerienne 5.11a (worth getting on even if you don't make it up cause it is so damn sweet), La Renversee 5.9 (an awesome lead and fun jugs the whole way)?

Sounds like you have to go back soon to get on the other stuff!! Even Cassonade 5.8 next to Bonsai and my favorite warm up route San foi ni loi 5.7 (more like a 5.5) are awesome leads and well within your ability. Just get on the sharp end!!

When fred and I go, one of us leads the route and hangs the draws, clips the anchors, lowers and then we pull the rope and the other leads the route with draws in place and cleans on rappell. That way we don't fight over leads and we both get to be on the sharp end all the time.

Cara

by **martha** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 5:38 pm

Jamie Simpson wrote:Clifton - "Wheaties" is fun, as in 'I'm scared as hell but will think it's fun once I'm off it' kind of fun. Slab lovers would like it.

Jamie

haha. yeah. that is clifton for ya.

so much fun.

you in for this weekend Jamie? Dave and Laurie too perhaps? it should be a blast.

by **Fred** » Mon Jul 25, 2005 9:54 pm

I just posted a few photos of our trip to Clifton.

http://www.beta-source.com

by **jeremy** » Tue Jul 26, 2005 3:46 pm

Slice of the gunks in clifton is one of the nices easy trad lines down there. I love it! We did highlander first pitch, then the second pitch of which wonder (squeeze chimney). Hint don't try the chimney pitch if you have a waist over 34 inch. Highlander first pitch is cool, kinda pumpy at top around that small overlap.

other good lines are:

homeward bound 5.8 sport
delusions of bears 5.9+ sport
house of cards 5.8 trad
grape nuts 5.9 mixed 2-3 pitches
cereal killer 5.11 mixed
lemmings in lycra 5.10c mixed 2-3 pitches
where eagles dare 5.10d mixed, exposed! (the final pitch on the right side of the nose is the best!, Climb first pitch of wheaties 5.9+ to get there)

enjoy

jeremy

by **mitchleblanc** » Wed Jul 27, 2005 11:18 am

martha wrote:Just get on the sharp end!!

When fred and I go, one of us leads the route and hangs the draws, clips the anchors, lowers and then we pull the rope and the other leads the route with draws in place and cleans on rappell. That way we don't fight over leads and we both get to be on the sharp end all the time.

Cara

"You should have lead them." -- Why?? What's with rope climbers and "the sharp end"? I'd rather climb hard and do hard moves top-roping than worry about leading and all that other crap, it just detracts from the climbing. Just another distraction. Also, calling it the "sharp-end" is just wrong.

And don't listen to Cara, sounds to me like you had a rad weekend, don't worry about the flowers you *didn't* get on.. the routes you did do were rad.

by **Andrew** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 9:29 am

Thanks mitch. Finally somone not telling me what i should have done and just being happy for me to have had fun doing what I felt was good.

ANdrew

mitchleblanc wrote:
martha wrote:Just get on the sharp end!!

When fred and I go, one of us leads the route and hangs the draws, clips the anchors, lowers and then we pull the rope and the other leads the route with draws in place and cleans on rappell. That way we don't fight over leads and we both get to be on the sharp end all the time.

Cara

"You should have lead them." -- Why?? What's with rope climbers and "the sharp end"? I'd rather climb hard and do hard moves top-roping than worry about leading and all that other crap, it just detracts from the climbing. Just another distraction. Also, calling it the "sharp-end" is just wrong.

And don't listen to Cara, sounds to me like you had a rad weekend, don't worry about the flowers you *didn't* get on.. the routes you did do were rad.

by **martha** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 9:32 am

oh give me a break. you know I was happy for you. I wasn't 'telling' anything.

just giving suggestions for next time.

sheesh. :roll:

by **Andrew** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 2:51 pm

Cara,

I know. I can dish it out too.

ANdrew

martha wrote:oh give me a break. you know I was happy for you. I wasn't 'telling' anything.

just giving suggestions for next time.

sheesh.

by **PaulB** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 4:40 pm

... the grades are so soft in Kamouraska...

probably 1 grade less in difficulty compared to Welsford grades.

Plus with the bolts so close....

Doesn't sound all that "sharp" when you put it that way.

As any alpine climber will tell you, "sport climbing is neither", and according to AskMen.com, bouldering is "... like hiking with some obstacles thrown in.".

by **martha** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 7:33 pm

PaulB wrote:Doesn't sound all that "sharp" when you put it that way.

As any alpine climber will tell you, "sport climbing is neither", and according to AskMen.com, bouldering is "... like hiking with some obstacles thrown in.".

I agree Paul. I'm a traddie at heart. But climbing in Kamouraska is a nice break once in a while from crapping your pants.

by **Andrew** » Thu Jul 28, 2005 11:11 pm

*** SPRAY ***

Hey everyone. I led SPIDERMAN 5.8 (trad+1 bolt) on Pyramid Wall on Thursday night with Adam B. & Matt. It's a very fun route top roped but on mostly trad lead... it's even more fun! I found the gear to be adequit but PG from my experience in trad climbing.

Im gonna go back and lead it again and see how it is the 2nd time around

Have a nice day.

by **Fred** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:46 am

Andrew wrote:*** SPRAY ***

I led SPIDERMAN 5.8 (trad+1 bolt) on Pyramid Wall...

Nice work Andrew! I absolutely love that route. It's one of my favorites on Pyramid I think. I find the protection pretty decent. I think for the next guide I'll change it to "G" instead of "R". Any comments? :roll:

Have you tried Mummified since I fixed the bolt near the bottom? You should give it a go.

by **Fred** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 7:48 am

martha wrote:But climbing in Kamouraska is a nice break once in a while from crapping your pants.

I guarantee if I sent you up Mobby Dick you'd crap your pants. Sport isn't always easy. You often get in much more exposed situations I find and upside down. That's why I love it so much. It takes you places trad won't.

by **martha** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 8:05 am

Fred wrote: It takes you places trad won't.

It takes you places trad in New brunswick won't. I bet you can get super exposed and upside down in the gunks.

we'll try and find you a nice route to do in September when we go. :lol:

by **Andrew** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 8:22 am

Thanks Fred. It was fun. My comments on Spiderman is to change it from 'R' to 'PG'. It's definatly not 'G', at least compared to other 7's and 8's like Pass the Moonshine, Snakepeel. I think Furn Gully 5.8 trad had slightly better gear than Spiderman and it's a PG. I suppose it's all subjective.

Fred wrote:
Andrew wrote:*** SPRAY ***

I led SPIDERMAN 5.8 (trad+1 bolt) on Pyramid Wall...

Nice work Andrew! I absolutely love that route. It's one of my favorites on Pyramid I think. I find the protection pretty decent. I think for the next guide I'll change it to "G" instead of "R". Any comments?

Have you tried Mummified since I fixed the bolt near the bottom? You should give it a go.

by **Fred** » Fri Jul 29, 2005 10:29 am

Martha, that's why I used the word

Fred wrote:often

by **mathieu** » Mon Aug 01, 2005 10:32 am

Weekend, hmmm let me see, well last saturday (a week ago) we hiked 3 km with light day packs and then spent a week camped at the toe of a glacier (helicopter brought the rest of our luxury items such as booze and climbing gear) and bagged a whole bunch of mountains in the Commander Range. Hauled a guy out of a crevasse to keep things interesting (as if jumping over crevasses and walking over snow bridges spanning 15 feet isn't exciting enough).

Spent yesterday clipping bolts at Kid Goat. Highly recommend that area over any of the canyons in Canmore, the rock is so sharp and not polished,

Recommended routes at Kid Goat (I know its not NB but for all you future visitors take note)

Grey Waves (5.8 sporty sport 4 pitches)
Coarse and Juggy (Old 5.9, sport 1 pitch)
Talk Dirty to Me (5.10, sport 1 pitch)

And by the looks of things these aren't bad either, haven't done them but looked good.
Keelhaul (5.6 Trad 4 pitches)
New Hope for the Dead (5.10, sport 1 pitch)

Got to love that shift work, work 9 take 9 off.

by **martha** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 11:49 am

jeremy wrote:Slice of the gunks in clifton is one of the nices easy trad lines down there. I love it! We did highlander first pitch, then the second pitch of which wonder (squeeze chimney). Hint don't try the chimney pitch if you have a waist over 34 inch. Highlander first pitch is cool, kinda pumpy at top around that small overlap.
jeremy

Oh man, we did the second pitch of which wonder on Saturday. It was wild. So much fun.

my favorite pitch all day. Though Fred nearly spent the night there. Squeeze chimneys aren't his deal I don't think. :lol:

John and I loved it. I wanna do it again!! Except perhaps this time without the BD#5 hanging off my harness. Talk about making things tight. I ended up taking it and a nalgene off my harness and setting them in the flake above in order to clear the hole at the top of the chimney!

C

by **Fred** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:06 pm

I wouldn't describe that as a squeez chimney. It's more of a circus act. I had my arms above my head and I was almost out of it when I realized I had forgotten to unclip the last piece below me. Try backtracking those moves. I had a crazy time bending my arms like Gumby to be able to reach down and unclip that piece. I'd say I was in there a solid 15min. We all came out of that one laughing. Crazy route!

by **jeremy** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 12:32 pm

The locals call it the birth canal. When justin and i did it we got into a bit of a mess too. I had the rope going way over to the right side of the chimney to reduce rope drag. Then when justin seconded the pitch he couldn't flick it back into the chimney, so a fall wouldn't cut the rope. I had to down climb from the anchor and do it for him, while he was stuck in the birth canal. The cracks before and after the chimney are stellar!

Its about time john went to clifton.

jeremy

by **martha** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 4:51 pm

HAHAH that is hilarious!!!

But yes, the cracks before and after are amazing. just the same, I had fun in the 'birth canal'.

by **justin** » Wed Aug 03, 2005 7:21 pm

Hilarious now ...... yes, Then..... not so much.
Seriously the closest to crapping my pants in my life, there wasnt a thing I could do to get that rope back into the chimney, I actually wore the sheath enough I had to cut like 10' off. I just kept plugging gear into the thing until I felt cool enough to let Jeremy do his thing on top.

Everyone at the crag had a good laugh at my ass hanging out of that chimney for 15 min. :oops:

It hasnt seen the last of me I'll come back to beat it. :twisted:

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