Leading Routes in P.E.I

[ganu]

I read on a post in rockclimbing.com about leading the rock routes in p.e.i, well actually they were described as being trad. i lead a few of the ice routes and some mixed stuff on the north shore, but i never lead any of the rock, for instance on the south shore by Fort Amerst. It has been years since I have climbed in P.E.I,I now live in B.C, so my outlook may differ if I was actaually was looking at the rock, but I do remember it looking as if it would require some bold creativity.
If anyone has been leading any of the rock routes I would love to get get a reply on this post about your experience. What kind of pro did u use?If u bolted what kind of system?Where did u do the lead?Was it an onsight or a headpoint?( Review the route on top-rope before one leads) Any other details would be great.

[martha]

Everything I have heard about rock on PEI is that it is really soft sandstone, short, and a little on the dangerous side.

just drive a few hours and come to Welsford instead.

[Matt Peck]

From what I saw when I was there, little to no climbing on a natural medium exists outside of trees. There might be ice on the north shore, but the stratigraphy of the south shore prevents it except where streams exit the cliffs, and these aren't very high. I saw a few places where there were deposits of a harder granular rock, but was unable to identify climbable boulders in these areas. Of the natural rock, formations do exist that are climbable, and some do reach a fair height, but due to the friable nature of the stone, gear climbing is downright dangerous. Even bouldering is often dangerous, as many boulders on the seaside are perched upon beds of soft stone or clay, which is prone to shifting. There may indeed be decent climbing on PEI, but as of yet I have not seen any evidence of it.

[dcentral]

There's the churches downtown C'town.

I think that's the most solid rock you'll find.