Climb Eastern Canada

by **excited newbie** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 5:01 pm

Hey all, I think im gonna start buying some ice climbing gear. Anybody have anything for sale? I have absolutely no equipment right now so anything is good. Thanks.

by **climberwannabe** » Wed Jul 06, 2005 9:59 pm

Hey man, wait till a little later in the season when the ice starts forming... ppl will realize how much they'd like to trade in their old and dull tools for some new shiny stuff... also check out the Canadian Mountaineering forum for gear... http://www.live-the-vision.com and then the forum is a seperate link. There usually lots of boots/tools for sale. Oh, also check out the outdoor gear swap on the MEC site.

Good luck!!

Steve

by **Fred** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 8:23 am

in a month or two you'll start seeing lots of posts on MEC gear swap

by **Mountain_Marc** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 2:34 pm

I have BD Vipers w/fangs that I could sell you. Only used 6 days. Bought new in March '05.

by **Fred** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 2:54 pm

Mountain_Marc wrote:I have BD Vipers w/fangs that I could sell you. Only used 6 days. Bought new in March '05.

how much?

by **martha** » Thu Jul 07, 2005 10:40 pm

Fred!! we've already got BD vipers!! hehe..

but if we get those, maybe we can trade 'em for some Quarks!

by **excited newbie** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 8:24 am

Hey you two, back off!! Since i started this thread than shouldnt i get first dibs on the stuff? I mean it only seems fair...

So yeah...how much?

by **Fred** » Fri Jul 08, 2005 9:21 am

$500 Bob!

one dola !!!!

by **Ropeguy** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 4:50 pm

I have a pair of Zamberlan boots(Yellow size 10) that were used for 1 season and a pair of DMM fly axe's with leashes that I'm replacing this year.

by **Fred** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 7:00 pm

the DMM flys are a wicked good beginner tool. I had em for two years and loved them. They are light too so you can focus on good swing.

by **martha** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 7:18 pm

I'm a huge fan of the DMM Alien's too. amazing tool. Thats what I climbed with all season this year, save for some playing around on others tools to test them out. (boy that doesn't sound very good does it?)

by **Ropeguy** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 7:42 pm

Ok,I was wrong about the DMM Axes they are Aliens......not Fly's.

by **Fred** » Sat Jul 09, 2005 9:20 pm

oh

I was considering buying your tools off of you if they were the flys. I don't like the Aliens myself. They aren't bad but I find that pinky rest (not supposed to be) just bites into my fingers. Maybe I had the leashes set too long though.

by **Mountain_Marc** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 3:50 am

How much you guys offering?? Keep in the mind they are new and have fangs on them!

by **Fred** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 8:53 am

how much are you asking?

with android leashes?

by **Ropeguy** » Sun Jul 10, 2005 1:30 pm

Haven't had that problem myself Fred but I keep my leashes a little snug.If anyone is interested $200.00 get the 2 axes(1 hammer 1 adze)and the leashes.Anyone ever us the Grievel Taa-k-oon??? I have a pair of Vipers that are ok but I want that Taa-k-oon's

by **excited newbie** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 2:19 pm

Can you use the Aliens for mixed climbing?

by **martha** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 4:54 pm

You can, but you can't climb with them leashless as they don't have enough curve. I suppose you *could* climb with them leashless, but I sure wouldn't.

personally, this is what I think... there is little mixed climbing in the maritimes so don't worry about it. You are pretty new to ice climbing so you don't need all the bells and whisltes. they won't make a difference anyway. the aliens are amazing tools. A great beginner tool, and a great second tool to have on hand as a back up when you eventually upgrade.

I can't say enough good about these tools. but they might work differently for you. I'm a gal who can't stand the Vipers, the swing of the viper the feel of the Viper etc. they just don't do it for me at all. And I have tried them on many occasions.

I love the Quarks...they are my next purchase. but the aliens are really nice and if I didn't have the money for the quarks, I'd be sticking with them. DMM makes wicked quality stuff.

by **excited newbie** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 4:59 pm

Ok, sounds good, thanks!

by **mitchleblanc** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 9:10 pm

Why don't you save your money by NOT buying ice gear, then use your savings to move to a place with actual climbing? That way you get good climbing and avoid the misery of ice "climbing".

by **excited newbie** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 9:18 pm

Wow Mitch,
Its so simple, why didnt I see it before? Im gonna get right on that. Ill be down in ten minutes.

by **mitchleblanc** » Mon Jul 11, 2005 10:02 pm

Good man. I'll pick you up at the airport. Brendon is headed out bouldering, I'm sure you could hitch a ride with him. See? Now wasn't that easy?

by **Matt Peck** » Wed Jul 13, 2005 9:48 pm

Well, I was looking for a pair of Taa- k-oon's, but I came into a pair of vipers with fangs for.......$200. SO the price was right. As for the new guy: Start with a pair of leashed tools. And go bent shaft right from the get go. I bought an old pair of CH Pulsars with the dog leg and loved them. Demo demo demo a pair pefore you buy, as each swing can make or break the tool for you. (enter the Viper/Quark debate. ) Also, while I should be promoting the avant guard technique. Don't go leashless righ off. It involves a lot of muscle and awesome technique (read mental ability) to do well sans dragonnes. Get a tool that you can disguard the leeashes on after you have become comfortable. (vipers or quarks. ). Also, consider pouring a pile of money into a good pair of boots first and formost. Cause ice climbing sucks without real ice boots. You will enjoy the sprot immesurably more with a good pair (lasportiva lotse or Koflach Arctis Expre). Then after that go with a sweet pair of crampons (Grivel, Grivel Grivel). Only then look for the nice ferrari tools.
Seriously, buy in that order. By the time you have the first two items, you will have the technique and the knowledge of what works for you to shell out the clams for tools. I felt I wanted a set of blades right off when I started, but Accedentally came into boots first, and that made my second year way more enjoyable. (Not having to carry 20 pounds worth of plastic boots and then change into them in -25 degree weather.) You can always borrow tools from a hardened veteran, but ask them for their boots and see how far you get.
Welcome to the pinkey bash.

by **Matt Peck** » Wed Jul 13, 2005 10:00 pm

That said, if you do get tools, start out easy, like Cara said with a pair of FLYS, and not Aliens. Aliens are a brutal way to remove you pinkeys, and are also wicked heavy. The Flys are a perfect tool for many ice climbers. The only thing I can think that would be better for starting out would be an older pair of CM Quasars (cutting edge way before their time) or a pair of CM Aztars.
You will notice bells and whistles, But more so in your crampons. Be sure to match a rigid crampon to a soft if you start out that way.
Ok, enough rambling. Im sure Matt B, Fred, Cara, Stef, Richard and especially my better half are rolling their eyes right now. As for MItch, I can feel the eye rolling half a world away.

PS, Hangboard is done, and pretty sweet for a first model. I may go into prduction yet.

by **mitchleblanc** » Thu Jul 14, 2005 12:07 am

My eyes rolled so far back into my head I sprained them.

I won't even bother commenting on the ice "climbing" gear, I'm just here to say: Matt. This is the future. We are NOW in the future. The age of technology is upon us. Buy a digital camera. Take pictures of your wicked ass hangboard. Post them online.

If it looks good we'll start a partnership and sell those puppies!

by **martha** » Thu Jul 14, 2005 7:42 am

Matt Peck wrote:That said, if you do get tools, start out easy, like Cara said with a pair of FLYS, and not Aliens. Aliens are a brutal way to remove you pinkeys, and are also wicked heavy. The Flys are a perfect tool for many ice climbers. The only thing I can think that would be better for starting out would be an older pair of CM Quasars (cutting edge way before their time) or a pair of CM Aztars.
You will notice bells and whistles, But more so in your crampons. Be sure to match a rigid crampon to a soft if you start out that way.
Ok, enough rambling. Im sure Matt B, Fred, Cara, Stef, Richard and especially my better half are rolling their eyes right now. As for MItch, I can feel the eye rolling half a world away.

PS, Hangboard is done, and pretty sweet for a first model. I may go into prduction yet.

Matt is right, the Aliens are very heavy. But I think that is why I liked them so much. I'll admit, I swing like a girl. Well...sorta. i've got a pretty good swing now (4 years in the making) but it still doesn't have a lot of power behind it....(5'4''/125lbs) so the extra weight for me really made a difference. I was able to sink the tools on the first or second swing as opposed to bouncing off the lighter ones.

I know a few old school climbers...(cough cough Karel, cough, Pat K, cough) who still climb in the OLD style tools with leashes etc, and fly up grade 5 like it is walking a flight of stairs, so it isn't the tools that make you climb hard grades. It is technique and practice.

Matt is right on about getting a good pair of boots/crampons first...but if I remember...you do have boots already..no?

by **mathieu** » Thu Jul 14, 2005 9:27 am

Peckosky is right, spend money on boots. and hey if you don't like ice climbing you can always pick up mountaineering or use them to go hiking and look hardcore to non climbers and look like a newbie to climbers. I had a good chuckle when I did a scramble this spring and I passed this guy wearing some pair of fancy yellow boots and I was there with my scrappy old approach shoes. The only reason you'd want to wear them hiking is to break them in. The damn thing with climbing boots (leather is the way to go BTW) is that they are heavy.

My preference with boots is, again, go leather and don't go for the fancy models that have 55 patches of kevlar sewn into them and have only been on the market for a year. It would really chap my ass if I'd buy a pair of 400$ boots and have a stitch starting to blow after a month.

So I guess I have the same point as matt and cara. buying your tools new without even climbing more than a hand full of times is a bit jumping the gun. Shop for boots which I now remember Cara saying you have a pair. ooops

Hey Matt, has Sherman the tank been out this year?

by **Matt Peck** » Thu Jul 14, 2005 9:39 am

Sherman the tank has spent most of the summer in storage, but did get out once this summer to Welsford, where he helped to weigh me down as I climbed in pitifully bad form. Hence making the hangboard. Can't wait to get back onto some climbing. I was going to head out west here soon, but am not sure that my fiinances will hold out long enough to land me a job, so I think I'll chicken out and head to Halifax for a couple of months first. Hope to be climbing in your neck of the woods by next year and will look you up. (prolly at the earliest.) Though I might get some last minute courage yet.
Sherman says hello, and righteous.

by **Fred** » Thu Jul 14, 2005 9:39 am

mathieu wrote:I had a good chuckle when I did a scramble this spring and I passed this guy wearing some pair of fancy yellow boots and I was there with my scrappy old approach shoes.

it's all relative... now you guys know how I feel when I'm going up to welsford in my flip flops. hehe

just teasing

by **excited newbie** » Mon Jul 18, 2005 12:27 pm

Yeah, i dont have any boots so ill look into that. I really wish there was a place in freddy where you could buy equipment, buying online sucks. what ever happened to the barder system? You give me some climbing boots, and ill give you three of my best hogs. Anyway, whats the price range for boots? this sport is a little too expensive for me i think.

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