first female 9a

[Guest]

Josune Bereziartu is the first woman to climb 9a...

how many sports are there where women compete at the same level as men??!

[martha]

quite a few actually Adam. and climbing is no exception. Lynn Hill has been said to be one of the best climbers in the world for years, though she only has a 14a under her belt, her all around abilities are nearly unmatched.

And seriously, look at the UNB gym! The ladies there kick your guys asses all over town!

[Guest]

i think i was making the point that climbing is no exception and that there are others. but thanks for underlining it for me....

[mitchleblanc]

Josune Bereziartu is the first woman to climb 9a...

how many sports are there where women compete at the same level as men??!

Whaaat?

Good question! Because climbing sure isn't one of them!

Women don't even nearly climb at the same level as men. Sure, ONE woman does. There are a million guys who boulder V10 onsight, and only what? One girl who's bouldered V11? Even *I've* bouldered that hard! That's terrible! (Note, I could be wrong Re: The Specifics, don't get touchy.) What about that Lisa Rands you say? Oh yeah, she climbed a few V10s, V11s?.. and yeah, they're hard.. I guess. So? They're not V16, that's for sure.

Rope climbing sees a mild improvement, I think, because power becomes less of a factor, I assume, but men still lead the pack by a long shot. Your list of females on 9a is all of one girl, while 9a has seen a ton of ascents by the boys.

I love women, I love climbing with them, I love looking at them, I want to marry them, and I know women who are better than you at most things you do. They are good at stuff... just not AS good at sports as men, in nearly all cases. Don't argue specifics, don't argue "fairness", it's a matter of performance, and is easily quantified.

I know I sound like a condescending bastard, but do the numbers lie? I'm just callin' it like I see it.

ps: I have bigger biceps than Cara.

[martha]

You know, there are women who are better than men at sports, but you are right that there are few of them. and overall, there are more men good at sports.

it is unfortunate, but women just don't have the physical build to compete against the guys. That is just the way it is. I've got hips for a reason, that that is for babies!! woooohoooo!!

I hate it when you are right mitch. Yes, your biceps are bigger than mine. but my boobs are bigger than yours.

[mitchleblanc]

I hate it when you are right mitch.

I have my doubts you're the only one

ps: You have bigger boobs than me? No way. Send photos please, I don't believe you.

[martha]

ps: You have bigger boobs than me? No way. Send photos please, I don't believe you.

aren't you just so cute. I could take you home with me.

[Guest]

Whaaat?

Good question! Because climbing sure isn't one of them!

nitpicker...

you're right, quantity wise, women aren't climbing as hard as men.... but quality wise, women are climbing practically as hard as men (and don't get on my case for specifics... so 9a is the top for women and 9b+ maybe for men .... close enough)...

yah, bouldering is a much more powerful form of climbing (generally speaking)... probably will take longer for parity to show up there than in rope climbing... if it ever does... i think the power involved in bouldering complements male vs female climbers and that's why there aren't v15 female ascents

look at the numbers of men vs women climbers and you'll probably get your reason why there aren't as many at the top level (think i read ~60 men climbing at 9a or better vs 1 woman, wonder what the general figures are), that plus maybe guys are more driven to perform at the highest level in this sport... whatever reason, there aren't as many women pushing the limits as there are men.

i'd say if there were as many female climbers as male then it would be even more... uh... even

[Guest]

Thanks alot Martha,Mitch gets to have bigger biceps than you, and you say yours are bigger than mine and you get the boobs catagory,What does that leave for poor Ropeguy,huh.....well!!

Oh hey wait a minute.I have an idea.Its long,its fun to run through your hands,some would ever put it in their mouth,Its has many different uses,Its strong and smooth and baby its a 10.5................Ha...How do you like me now!!!

[mitchleblanc]

Thanks alot Martha,Mitch gets to have bigger biceps than you, and you say yours are bigger than mine and you get the boobs catagory,What does that leave for poor Ropeguy,huh.....well!!

Oh hey wait a minute.I have an idea.Its long,its fun to run through your hands,some would ever put it in their mouth,Its has many different uses,Its strong and smooth and baby its a 10.5................Ha...How do you like me now!!!

At 10.5 and 50 or 60 m, yours may not be the thickest, but it's definitely the longest. You win that contest brother!

[Fred]

I'm not familiar with the European grading system but when you say "9a vs 9b+ close enough" I wonder. I think if it's at all like the YDS there is probably a huge difference. Basically the difference between what a guy can climb and what a girl can climb. To put things in perspective... I once heard that you should be able to onsight two letter grades below your ability. So if the hardest route I've ever lead was a 5.12a I should be able to onsight 5.11c. Thus, I'm just trying to say that two letter grades is a bigger margin than you think. Similarly V12 is not "close enough" at all to V15. Not by a long shot.

Another example. When I was in Kentucky, Stef Forte (sponsored) was there with a bunch of people out of Vegas. The guys, all unknown, were all climbing the same stuff she was.

Disclaimer:
yes I love women too

[Andrew]

Mmmm... lush supple boobs....

You know, there are women who are better than men at sports, but you are right that there are few of them. and overall, there are more men good at sports.

it is unfortunate, but women just don't have the physical build to compete against the guys. That is just the way it is. I've got hips for a reason, that that is for babies!! woooohoooo!!

I hate it when you are right mitch. Yes, your biceps are bigger than mine. but my boobs are bigger than yours.

[martha]

you better not be saying that about my boobs andrew, or I'll have to get my biceps out to hurt you.

[Guest]

as you can see... 9b+ is around 5.15c... so 3 letter grade difference.... ie., pretty much the same... or 'close enough'. the 9b+s that have been climbed haven't been repeated, so who knows if they really are that grade. afaik the only climb above 9a to have been repeated is sharma's realization at 9a+... so that's only one YDS letter grade off bezeriartu's top climb. and i'm sure she'll best that yet....

guess you have to be very specific about what you say around here... ok, let me rephrase...

"how many sports are there where women compete at very nearly the same level as men?"

that better?

i think one thing that is interesting about men and women climbing at these high end limits is the fact that body shapes tend to converge across sexes. look at lisa rands... she's the top women boulderer that i know of and she is looking more and more masculine, and more and more like top male boulderers, as time goes by. and bezeriartu... she's looking physically more and more like the top male basque climbers out there... long, lithe, and strong...

[Fred]

as you can see... 9b+ is around 5.15c... so 3 letter grade difference.... ie., pretty much the same... or 'close enough'.

So you are still saying that 9a is "close enough" to 9b? Let me try this again.

8a -> 8b is V11 -> V13

my best ever boulder problem is V6 (7a). Does that mean I'm "close enough" to V8 (7b). Hardly!

[Guest]

thanks for explaining it again fred... i am pretty slow to understand things...

no they are not the same thing, but to you v12 and v14 are one and the same cause you'll never climb them... ie., close enough.

[mitchleblanc]

thanks for explaining it again fred... i am pretty slow to understand things...

no they are not the same thing, but to you v12 and v14 are one and the same cause you'll never climb them... ie., close enough.

I think Fred could climb V12.

[Fred]

Hell yeah!

I'm just too busy training Mitchy boy cause he's out of shape. But I'm not worried cause V12 is only "3 close enoughs" away from V6. LOL

[Guest]

from http://www.8a.nu:

On Dec, 4th, at the Happy Boulders in Bishop, CA, Cicada Jenerik sent Lowrider, 7C/+ (V10) at 10 years old. As far as we know no-one else has ever bouldered their age and no other 10 year old has come close to a V10. Peter Mortimer (Front Range Freaks) filmed the send for his upcoming movie "Return to Sender"

[Guest]

I think Fred can climb v12 too. I've seen him on Lowrider and he warmed-up on that flowers.

[Guest]

Did someone just say Boobs??

Are we talking Bouldering or boobs here people!!!!
Lets see........Hmmmmm

Boobs are fun.... Bouldering is fun.....
Boobs can be rock hard Boulders can be rock hard
Boobs are fun to climb on Boulders are fun to climb on
Boobs get cold in the winter Boulders get cold in the winter
Boobs have litte or big protrusions Boulders have protrusions too
Boobs are fun to lick Boulders are fun to lick

Are you starting to see a pattern or what,I'm going to have to go with the CLOSE ENOUGH on this one!!!

RG
"Last one dead is a sissy"

[Guest]

someone is starved for attention

[mitchleblanc]

I'd say someone is starved for women, rather.

[Guest]

rather

[Guest]

from 8a.nu

Sierra Blair-Coyle, barely 11 years, has done her first 8a, Terminal Vector at The Pit. The route has also been suggested as an 8a+! We think this is a new 8a world record!

[dcentral]

someone is starved for attention

I hope the irony of this statement wasn't lost on you.

[Guest]

no, spell it out for me.

[jeremy]

well well, someone contact hot flashes... Alex How at 18 months (one year of age) is actually the first person to boulder his age, V1. This is if your conversion guide is correct, which I don't think is true. V3 is not 5.10a, which would make V1 like 5.7/5.8???

PS... so much bickering around here just ignor each other

later, jeremy

[Guest]

many congratulations to the how family. way to go alex!

[mike]

I'm not much of a boulderer- I prefer to be in the mountains.

Can anyone explain the UIAA grades on the chart for me?

From what I know UIAA grade VI is pretty hard and UIAA grade VII is really hard and somewhat debatable- 'Superunknown' on baffin island being one of the first climbs to be graded at UIAA VII- that route was something like A5, 5.12c and took 31 days.

How does bouldering fit into the same grading system- or is it the same grading system?

Mike