Climb Eastern Canada

by **nsagar** » Sun Jun 19, 2005 3:54 pm

Hey all, wondering if any one knows of any cool hard crack routes that have or have not been freed in around the hfx area?Many thanks.

Nick

by **The Mitt** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:40 am

There are still a few, probably 2-3 long finger cracks at paces mainface, 4-5 short climbs (20-30 ft). I think there are couple to be done at ship rock, I believe that some people did a few aid climbs there. Person to get in touch with is Steve Punshon, I'm sure he has every crack line in the GHA (greater Halifax Area) mapped out in his head.

Mitt

by **Fred** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 7:55 am

Nick,

if you are looking for something a little further but still close to Halifax, I believe there are some great projects waiting to be freed in Welsford (5 hour drive). Lines such as the free ascent of "Mon Premier French Kiss" a suberp layback which progresses into an overhanging arching roof that's about 80ft high. Would be a cool free climb for sure. There is also a hard mixed climb right next to it that hasn't been freed yet and it's an open project. There is also a 100ft blank 5.13+ face waiting to be climbed but needs bolts. It starts 100ft off the ground so it's nicely exposed. Back in the day it was graded 13c but was only done on TR... who knows. I think there is potential for more stuff as well.

p.s. Those videos of Finn on your website are pretty cool man. I hope my kids climb like that.

by **Nate** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 9:16 am

There are a couple cracks on a cliff in prospect that haven't been done. One is overhanging and pretty wide and would be a nice route for anyone willing to sacrfice some skin. Not to mention the insanely hard sport potential.
Have fun man,
Nate

by **chameleon** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:14 am

Hey Nick,

There are a couple of unclimbed overhanging cracks on the right side of Neverland. Kind of short (22' or so) but they look appealing - ask Zig about them. 5.12ish+ I would guess.

Ship Rock has a couple of lines in the middle/right left around 11+ . A very bold climber might be interested in turning the roof to the right of "Comfortably Numb"....also there would be a nice hardish line left of "Keelhauled" with a short roof at the top. Not sure if it's just for yourself or if you're giving a tour to visiting crack climber - but regardless, you have to go to Ship Rock cuz' the cracks are awesome!!! The island is private and under a Conservation Easement, so no bolts please.

If the above sounds too easy, the best hard crack I know about is at Crows Nest. Starts near a boulder around the middle/left side. Discontinuous cracks with what looks like decent gear (75-80' high) - needs some cleaning. Haven't tried it but I would guess 5.12++(??).
There's a couple of unclimbed 5.11++'s to the right of this (one was called Butkus and aided by Therien, the other exits the left side of the big roof - I've thrutched myself halfway up the latter and it will be a wicked line).

Another cool hard one at Crows Nest would be the far left side of the main wall. The crack is kind of sharp and ugly getting to the alcove, but there appears to be a line breaking out of the roof/alcove onto some spectacular overhanging face climbing with occasional crackage for protection.

Lastly, there is an unfinished crack (5.11ish) that I dubbed "Shadows and Dust" out at The Skapper - awesome, but rarely dry.

Let know if you need a tour guide or a rope handler - I'd love to see some of these routes climbed!!

Cheers.
Sean C.

by **martha** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:57 am

Nick,

If you come to Welsford, let Fred and I know. You are welcome to stay with us if you like. and I'm sure that Fred would love to get some pictures/footage of these lines going down.

And bring Fynn too! hehehe. I don't mind watching him while you climb!

Cheers!

by **martha** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 11:58 am

oh...and we can hold the rope for ya too.

by **nsagar** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 8:01 pm

Wow. It all sounds cool!

Sean C. how about a trip to crows nest? I'm in Squamish this week end but maybe next weekend? July 2nd is looking free. I have a cottage with a motorboat in T-bay so it's easy to get across. I rapped the cliff a few weeks back and would love to have a tour. Not sure which climb is which but I saw some stuff I sure would like to rock climb!

I would like to do a trip up to Fredricton to climb in Welsford. It has been a long time. Heather and I may be going down to New Hampshire mid August. Maybe there is time on the way there or on the way back. I'll let you know as soon as dates get firmed up. Yes, Fynn will be with us!

If anyone wants to see the video of the new problems check http://www.nhclimb.com and click on "latest".

Thanks for all the beta. Keep it coming if any one has more....

by **martha** » Mon Jun 20, 2005 8:24 pm

there are some aid routes in the Amphitheatre in Welsford that could likely be freed. I don't know how hard they would go free though.

be warned, the Aid grades are off, by how much I don't know. John B could tell you more.

Nuclear Holocaust 5.6 A2
Ascent up to Asgard 5.6 A3
Revenge of Lockeed A2
Cerebus 5.12d A3 (open project) w/ overhanging crack

I think that John Bowles has been working some of these, but I don't think he has freed any yet.

Lots there to be done for sure and they all have cracks.

See you in Welsford in August

by **chameleon** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 11:23 am

Hey Nick,

July 2nd doesn't work for me - in fact July is kind of shot with family camping trips and the like. I'll call you sometime later in the summer if you're still keen.

In the meantime, Ben Smith was just over to Crows Nest and was top-roping that gem of a crack line I think you'd like. Give him a call.

Sean

by **ben smith** » Mon Jun 27, 2005 12:51 pm

yeah, Nick the crack system is beautiful-really sustained with some sick laybacks and a slopey layback crux at the top. The gear looks good too if you can stop to place it. the bugs were not to bad. I'd be stoked to get on it again if you are going out.

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