starting a gym

[granite_grrl]

The real rocks holds used at the gym I climb at (which suck, they used rounded polised river stones, honestly, what were they thinking?) are screwed on instead of bolted. I think they typically use 3 screws for each rock. As far as I know there has been no problems with them spinning, etc, and they should be no more damanging to the walls than screw on jibs.

[Guest]

As far as I know there has been no problems with them spinning,

there wouldn't be a spinning problem with screw ons unless you only used a single screw.... i was just talking about bolt ons..

[granite_grrl]

As far as I know there has been no problems with them spinning,

there wouldn't be a spinning problem with screw ons unless you only used a single screw.... i was just talking about bolt ons..

My brain's running a little slow today, I'm not having a very good time with the Union at work..... I guess I should have said something like - "they don't seem to have a problem torqueing or twisting". They are larger holds and the screws are placed closer to the center.

[Guest]

My brain's running a little slow today, I'm not having a very good time with the Union at work..... I guess I should have said something like - "they don't seem to have a problem torqueing or twisting". They are larger holds and the screws are placed closer to the center.

don't let the union get you down

i see... yah, if a big hold was screwed on with the screws all being close to center then yah, you'd prob be able to torque it off... point taken. whose design was that ??

[granite_grrl]

My brain's running a little slow today, I'm not having a very good time with the Union at work..... I guess I should have said something like - "they don't seem to have a problem torqueing or twisting". They are larger holds and the screws are placed closer to the center.

don't let the union get you down

i see... yah, if a big hold was screwed on with the screws all being close to center then yah, you'd prob be able to torque it off... point taken. whose design was that ??

The same guy who thought it would be a good idea to use polished river stones, obviously.

[mitchleblanc]

Grades: I won't grade any routes/problems I set. If someone really wants a grade then we'll grab a few people and try to get a consensus. In any area route grades are subjective (gyms or outside). If you found that the 5.9 was too easy get on the 10a, or vise versa.

Why is that? How does that benefit anyone? I don't understand why you would not grade a problem, then say that if someone "wants a grade" (which nearly everyone does) then you'll "grab a few people"... Are you worried your grading won't be precise? I think you can do your best, and not be too worried, because everyone knows that grading is subjective. Grading is hard, I agree, but it's a skill and it's helpful in a gym, because people are usually in a gym to improve; They need milestones and objectives.

Your argument is completely illogical: If you think the 5.9 is too easy, get on the 5.10a??? But ... How do you know what the grades are, unless they are graded??? Or, ok, let's assume you meant "Get on route A), it's too easy, get on route B)"... well, sometimes people have finite lifespans, and like to not just *guess* route grades. Your idea is fine for me, because I'm happy to lead anything, regardless of grade, but not so great for my sister, who has never led, and could potentially get hurt if she can't pull a 5.10 crux with no pro and no downclimbing. Further, you can't know if you're improving (maybe this isn't an issue for you, maybe you don't care if you improve or not?) if you don't have milestones or goals, which grades provide.

If you think you're pulling a Chris Sharma type boycott on grades, then I have less good things to say... <-- wink, indicating that the tone of my post is not angry.

[shannon]

Anyone have proposal samples I could draw from to take to UPEI?

-Mod.

[martha]

I've got a few on file Shannon.

proposal for a wall you mean?

email me.

[Matt Peck]

Hey Shannon,
was there any progress on the upei front?

[shannon]

Hey there matt. I've been doing more talking than proposing. I need to put together a clear proposal that includes video I think. Best way to show what a climbing wall is really all about.

I've been putting some brain cells into my own wall as well. This is the month to move it and rebuild.

shannon

[saF]

I have heard from a non-climber that there is a climbing wall with ropes out near the Hilsborough Hospital. I have not had a change to check it out yet. Too busy getting my exercise through renovations!

I will keep you posted if I learn anything.

Damn I hate plaster walls.

saF

[shannon]

June should be the month that I will be building my outdoor wall. Just waiting for the steel supports to mount the panels on the house. Got the rope, and hardware. When are us PEI'ers getting together to plan day trips to the main land? The time is approaching!

shannon Burt

[Matt Peck]

Hey SHannon, made a trip last weekend, the bugs are aweful in Welsford. Other than that it's good. You might want to wait a week ar two more for them to calm down.

[Fred]

why wait? it's all going down this weekend bugs or no bugs rain or shine

[shannon]

Matt, next time I'm hiking Bonshaw, I'll send you a note.

shannon

[hfx_onegreatcity]

Hi!

I'm from Nova Scotia and went climbing three times indoors in Halifax... in Bayers Lake but I forget the name of the place.

Anyway, I'm a student here in C'town now and would love to have a climbing facility! I am total beginner but does that matter? We all have to start somewhere! For someone without a car, I don't have access to many sports that I actually like. I have been searching since I came here in September for somewhere to go, but found nothing (now I know why- there IS nothing).

Let me know how it goes or if I can offer any help. I can volunteer to do any office work associated with getting something going as I graduated from the Holland College administrative assistant program.

Kristin

[dcentral]

I hear your pain hfx. When I lived in PEI the only thing I could ever get too was Judo with out a car. C'town is a hard city to get around by foot.

[Nate]

I'm lazy so I don't know if someone already mentioned it but, to start off your collection of climbing holds you can ask all the major climbing companys for samples of thier holds. That way you can also get a feel for what company you'd like to buy from also.
Good luck,
Nate

[shannon]

Nate,

That's a great idea. GOt to get back to that proposal to refine it.

shannon B.

[wobblypete]

This may be of interest to those wishing to approach UPEI about a climbing wall.

While I attended the University of Waterloo, the Outers Club struck a deal with the Campus Athletics to take over a rarely used squash court and convert it to a bouldering wall, with cave/overhang. In order to use this wall, one needs to be a member of the outers club, and pay a per-term fee of like $15. This money goes to the purchase of new holds, mats, and paying off the initial loan.

Here is the link to their website:
http://watserv1.uwaterloo.ca/~outers/bo ... ering.html

What I think made this work, is that most of the work was done by the students (design, assembly, etc.). The only involvement from the university was to provide space (which wasn't serving a real demand, anyways) and then a loan for start-up supplies (some of which was covered by a student services grant).

The plus side to this arrangement is that for students it is very inexpensive to go bouldering. The downside is that for non-students, you need to pay for a full gym membership, as well as the additional fees, in order to use the facility. Also another downside is that the space is really small, and can be pretty busy at times.

Anyways, good luck in bringing a climbing gym of some type to the island.

[martha]

The unb gym started as one squash court and expanded into two. It is very common at universities and other facilities to see this.

[Outdoorsmack]

Hey Everyone, so i see that this post is years old but if anyone is still interested in trying to start something on the island I am all game. The sport has grown much since the last discussions. I have inquired about a few locations but have come up dry. I think what one will need is a strong business plan and investors for the money. The rest is history.

Anyways give a shout if you'd be game for getting a climbing gym here in Charlottetown wether its at UPEI or in an old building. We could start a committee and brain storm ideas. It may be too big of a task for one person to overtake, so if we work together we may be able to accomplish something.

Malcolm.

[shannon]

Malcom,

We're one step closer to starting a top rope gym at ch'town Rural. He just found an engineer who is also a climber in NB who can help in designing an "approved" all design so that the dept. of education and the associated insurance coverage will work. Wish us luck. In the mean time, have a look at the ice climbing video we just put together at a spot called Orby Head.

shannon

[Outdoorsmack]

Shannon, that would be awesome to get a wall in town. Will is be used for the school or just located in the school. Speaking of school you were my teacher for viscom and adv. viscom. i graduated in 04. And i think you are teaching my brother derrick right now. anyways let me know if you would need any help getting this wall up and running.


thanks,
malcolm

[shannon]

Hey Malcolm, yes! I remember. Derrek has crazy hair right now. Anyway, it will likely be for students mainly, unless some private arrangement were to be made if it were a public thing. It will be interesting to see where we get to in a year's time.

Myself, I have an outdoor climbing wall, and my friend scott has an indoor one he sometimes uses in the off season. (when his wife clears out the stuff underneath)