Climb Eastern Canada

by **Fred** » Sat Nov 20, 2004 6:58 pm

Holy macaroni and cheese it was great out today. Where was everyone? I couldn't believe there were only three cars in Welsford today. I was climbing in a T-shirt and the rock was super warm. Wow! You guys missed out. Big Time!!!

by **Fred** » Sun Nov 21, 2004 4:45 pm

OMG

Still no one out today!!!!! It was another wicked day out in Welsford. Not quite as warm as Saturday but still way above freezing. Two climbers total at the crag today.

Was there a big football game on today or something?

by **Matt Peck** » Thu Nov 25, 2004 9:24 pm

Ditto to the amazing climbing in Welsford on that weekend. Saturday was awesome and great for the last day. Steph, Andy and I went up Cheekbone corner late in the day for some stellar climbing, with some moonlight rappelling for a bonus. INCREDIBLE!!! That second pitch was fantastic!.
:!:

by **Fred** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 12:48 am

cheers to Mat... so I was told he led the second pitch onsight after only two years of leading. More balls than I ever had. I think he's learning from the same Jedi who likes to hang out and feels comfortable taking falls on trad gear. Nice work bud.

by **Ulysse** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 12:13 pm

Was it dirty has hell? The face to the left is much cleaner albeit a little
harder

by **Fred** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 1:02 pm

do you mean the face to the right? i.e. Strata Factor

by **martha** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 1:14 pm

no, I think he means between 'wisecrack' and the corner.

? no?

i dunno.

by **Ulysse** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 1:50 pm

Yeah, stratafactor is what I had in mind. The last time I climbed the corner it was pretty dirty

by **Fred** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 2:47 pm

I've always wanted to try the original second pitch to Cheeckbone where you climb way out and left to gain Pigeon flowers Ledge. Has anyone taken this route before?

by **granite_grrl** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 4:33 pm

Fred wrote:I've always wanted to try the original second pitch to Cheeckbone where you climb way out and left to gain Pigeon flowers Ledge. Has anyone taken this route before?

Me and my partner last fall tried to do Cheekbone corner, I think that we only actually managed to do the last part of it on route though

. I did wind up belaying on a ledge that had a nest and a little tree on it to the left, we then traversed accross a big block that you could either balance and walk across, or shuffle accross it (kinda humping the rock) instead. Were we on Pigeon flowers ledge or were we kinda back on route at this point?

by **mathieu** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 7:45 pm

When me and my buddy (Andre) first tried to do cheekbone we tried to go by the original route (we had no clue where we were going) but I ended up retreating half way up cause a nest of mean looking crows was in the way. I think they have since then moved on so I think its clear.

I always said, if your gonna do cheekbone go with someone whos never done it. It adds character to the route. But props for Peck for doing that second pitch, its a gooder.

by **mitchleblanc** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 9:00 pm

Fred wrote:I've always wanted to try the original second pitch to Cheeckbone where you climb way out and left to gain Pigeon flowers Ledge. Has anyone taken this route before?

I'm confused. The second pitch to cheekbone corner?? Am I thinking of the same thing?

Does Cheekbone not start at the base of a big corner.. climb up onto that blocky, class 4 ish stuff.. then climb right up into the corner of the huge overhanging section.. You climb straight up the corner, through the "pigeon flowers ledge" (if you see it, you know you're on it) then move slightly left to the big outcrop of rock, hang on one arm 200 feet above the deck, then finish up top?

Either there is another route called "cheekbone", or you guys are on crack? Or I am on crack?

by **mitchleblanc** » Fri Nov 26, 2004 9:08 pm

mitchleblanc wrote:I'm confused. The second pitch to cheekbone corner?? Am I thinking of the same thing?

Sorry, let me clarify.. it's not the existence of the second pitch that confuses me.. it's how no one seems to know where it goes, when to me it's super obvious. Up the corner!

(but I am waiting to be corrected)

by **Fred** » Sat Nov 27, 2004 8:27 am

Mitch,

that corner directly below Pigeon flowers ledge is a 5.7 variation to Cheeckbone Corner. Go to the vintage photos on my beta-source site and you'll see the guy traversing back accross the ledge. (coming soon for the rest of you. sorry) The original route bipasses this corner by going way left and then coming back onto Pigeon flowers ledge before doing the one arm off the needle. Most people go up the corner as it is the most direct line. Easy to make the mistake unless you "really" read the route description and "really" look for the original route.

by **mitchleblanc** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 12:05 am

Thanks Fred, je comprends... But now.. which version did Matt P. do? The "original" exposed (I assume) one, or the scary overhanging death corner? Not that it matters I suppose..............

by **martha** » Sun Nov 28, 2004 10:27 am

one point for Matt on the scary overhanging death corner.

by **Matt Peck** » Fri Dec 03, 2004 8:47 pm

OK, as far as I remember, I left the first belay, climbed up over some class four slabby stuff, up through a skinny notch, straight into the courner up over a horizontal bar jammed in the corner up under an overhang, pulled the overhang via a little layback while standing on a horizontal crack aiming at strata factor, and then up to the big ledge/hole in the wall covered in pidgeon flowers. (PS ledge).
Interesting route. Dunno if this is the "death corner" you all are talking about. But it was a fun lead regardless. Laybacking that first pitch was way more comfortable than the squashing yourself in the corner looked.
PS, thanks for the props.

Matt.

Climb Eastern Canada

where was everyone?

where was everyone?

cheekbone

Clarification

So there you have it...

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