New Ice Routes

[Greg]

Here are some ice routes that have been put up recently in the Walton Glen area and a new area found along the Quiddy River.

Walton Glen Canyon
About 75 meters downstream from Walton Glen Falls, on the east side of the brook is a small flat area that would make a great campsite. Above this site you will find the "Geezer Area" containing an assortment of new ice and mixed routes.

It’s Never Enough: WI 4 50 m M. Martin, G. Hughes 2016
10 meters right of Geezer Falls is a narrow line of ice that leads to a rocky overhang with an ice dagger. Climb a steep ramp of ice to a small ledge below the dagger. If the dagger is in shape fire straight up clipping 3 bolts before topping out on the first pitch and anchoring at a spruce tree. If the dagger is not in shape move up and right through rock and ice to the anchor. Another pitch of ice can be found above.

Chimney Fire: WI 4 30 m G. Hughes, M. Martin 2016
About 20 meters left of White Fang is a mixed ice and rock chimney climb. Climb the ice in the chimney to the top of a gulley. Use chimney or stemming moves to manage the pump factor on this very steep section. An easier snow and ice filled gulley will take you to the top.

Thick or Thin: WI 3+ M4 (S3) 30 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, P. Arsenault 2015
Located about 20 meters uphill from White Fang. Climb thin ice and rock for 15 meters clipping 3 very well placed bolts as you go. Continue on to a 15 meter piece of pure ice that leads to the top. A very enjoyable climb. Anchor at same tree as White Fang.

The Kraken: WI 4 45 m S. Jones, J. Kennedy, G. Hughes 2016
Located high on the valley wall on the west side of Walton Glen Canyon just 200 meters from the lookout is a beautiful wall with both pure ice and mixed climbing. Climb the most obvious central line of gorgeous ice. 20 meters of near vertical ice leads to a lower angle section narrowing into a gulley at the top.
N 45°29’31.5” W065°17’56.4”

Quiddy River Area
This area is accessed using logging roads that branch off the Little Salmon River Road. There are several possible options to get there and approach the climbs. GPS coordinates are given below.

Quiddy River Two Step WI 3 120 m J. Kennedy, D. Hamel, G. Hughes, S. Bethune 2016
On the east side of the river climb a long meandering line of ice and rock to the top of the valley. The route faces southwest so it was only in fair condition on the fa. It should fatten up nicely in a normal winter. N45 32 35, W65 13 20

Scorpionflies WI 3+ 120 m G. Hughes, J. Kennedy, D. Hamel, S. Bethune 2016
Found on the west side of the river about 200 meters downstream from QRTS. Climb a steep snow slope to reach the base of a broad wall of ice. Several lines are possible. Climb the 20 meter wall until it backs off to WI1 and 2 for the remaining 100 meters. N45 32 28, W65 13 08

[Greg]

Some more new routes at Walton Glen Canyon put up last weekend.

Sea Monster Wall
Located high in the valley on the west side of Walton Glen Canyon just 200 meters from the lookout is a beautiful, broad, wall of pure ice and potential for mixed climbing. The following four routes are found on this wall. N 45°29’31.5” W065°17’56.4”

Ceirean WI 3 30 m M. Delaney, L. Woltman 2016
The furthest line right on Sea Monster Wall. 15 meters of steep ice leads to a lower angle ramp weaving its way up to a small pillar of ice.

Proteus WI 4+ 30 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Take the line just left of Kraken, a long steep column that leads to a lower angle flow. Quite sustained.

Hydra WI 4+ 35 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Start on the last bit of ice touching down on the left side of the curtain. Move left onto more ice when possible and continue trending left until you reach a continuous flow to the top.

Triton WI 4 25 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney, A. Boerlage 2016
Located just 40 meters downstream from One Green Line on the same side of the drainage is a broad 50 degree snowfield that leads to a gulley and a wall of ice. Triton is the first line encountered on the left as you go up the gulley. Begin on a thin verglassed slab and work your way up and right to a steep, fat pillar that leads to a Pine tree.

Surf and Turf WI 3 130 m G. Hughes, L. Woltman 2016
Just before the brook turns left going downstream look up to the right and you will see a snow slope leading to a left trending gulley. Follow the gulley up until you see a narrow flow of ice. 75 meters of mostly WI 2 ice leads to 55 meters of steep snow before topping out on the plateau.

Snapping Turtle WI 3 40 m M. Delaney, G. Hughes 2016
Just right of the Blue Wall is a large low angle waterfall with two distinct lines. Climb the right most line exiting in the trees right of the drainage. Note: This route is not a first ascent as it was likely climbed during the early forays into this area, however, it should be recorded as a climb and reference for The Blue Wall because it makes for an excellent entry and exit point.

Giza’s Way Out WI 2+ 35 m A. Boerlage, L. Woltman 2016
Just right of the Blue Wall is a large low angle waterfall with two distinct lines. Climb the left line leading straight up into the drainage. Note: This route is not a first ascent as it was likely climbed during the early forays into this area, however, it should be recorded as a climb and reference for The Blue Wall because it makes for an excellent entry and exit point.

Narwhal WI 5 35 m G. Hughes, A. Boerlage 2016
Approximately 30 meters downstream from the Blue Wall is a long snowfield on the opposite side (north bank) of the brook. Climb the 50 degree snowfield to a hidden gulley which will appear on the right. Climb the gulley starting with low angle ice which quickly steepens as it leads to a narrow curtain. Continue up narrowing gulley to a roof of ice. Pull the roof and then continue up a short slab to the top.

[Greg]

Three more:

Gin and Tonic WI 4 100 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2016
Located about 35 meters downstream from the Blue Wall on the same side of Walton Glen Brook (south bank). Find a narrow band of ice leading up and right into a hidden gulley. Climb 60 meters of easy ice and steep snow to reach a bench below a nice pitch of steep ice high on the wall. Ascend the broad curtain to the trees.

Margarita WI 4+ 30 m G. Hughes 2016 Located 20 meters right of Fireball Alley or 40 meters left of Gin and Tonic. Climb a short pillar of ice until you can move right to a vertical curtain of ice. Ascend the curtain and continue up through a series of pillars to the trees. Will be significantly easier if the curtain ever touches down.

Tequila Sunrise WI 3 75 m G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2016
Located 15 meters to the right of Fireball Alley. Climb a 5 meter wide curtain of ice to a steep snow ramp leading up and right. Pitch 2 ascends an easier slab of ice to the trees.