Bald Hill (Bear Mtn) new route

[JonA]

Kaliya 5.10c 10m/N/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, July 2015

This route is located by the right hand arete of The Dragon's Reign wall (just left of My Other Woman is a Handcrack). Begin in a short chimney that is capped with an overhanging block which forms twin cracks at the top of the chimney. Pull over this block onto the large ledge. Traverse the horizontal left of the ledge to reach good flakes. Climb the flakes to get to a series of horizontals. Use the horizontals to continue traversing left until it is possible to top out onto the large ledge.

Notes: This route takes good gear, but does require placing cams behind the flakes which is always a little so-so. I thought they were fine, you can place the cams deep, and the climbing is easier at that point, just be aware. Also, during the final traverse left there is a long detached rib of rock, it flexed a lot when I put the crowbar to it, but I could not get it to break, it felt fine climbing on it and the climbing is easy at that point, so again just be aware.

[JonA]

Cams from micro - BD#3, doubles in the .4-.75 range ideally.

[SMW]

Another new route:

Chouette 5.7 10m/S(8)/R(2)
FA: S. Wilson, J. Adamson August 2015
This route is located on the lower tier 10 metres left of the access gully. Climb to the right of the bolted line to reach a large bulge and continue up the left arrête of the bulge to the anchor.

[Dom]

Good work Sonia! Bald Cloud Bear can definitely use an easier sport climb such as this.

[theriault]

Good work Sonia! Bald Cloud Bear can definitely use an easier sport climb such as this.

+1

[JonA]

I guess I can post this one up for Dad as well, it was posted on facebook but not here.

Afternoon Delight 5.8 15m/S(8)/R(2)
FA: S. Adamson, J. Adamson August 2015
This route is located on the right most wall of the lower tier. Begin 6m left of the prominent off-width/chimney in a short, left-facing corner below the large horizontal ledge/cave. Climb a short crack to reach a large ledge. Move right on the ledge and head straight up above the stumps. (The 5.8 rating accounts for using the stumps, when these are gone the route may be a bit more difficult.) Move right again on the next ledge and head straight up to the anchors located on a large protuding block at the top of the cliff. For the full-value finish one-arm hang, and chalk up off the protuding block.

[JonA]

The Grate Escrape 5.8+PG 15m/N/R(2)

Climb the short offwidth found at the very right end of the lower tier. Continue up the tight chimney until you can exit right onto a ledge. Move up to the next ledge and step back across the chimney and up to the final large ledge with a bolted anchor. This is a grate, I mean great route to test your skills in the wide stuff. Keep in mind this is a 5.8 OFFWIDTH, if your offwidth game isn't up to par it may feel harder Climbers with a waist size bigger than a 32 may experience a squeezing sensation, if it doesn't go away after a couple of hours you might be stuck.

I protected the offwidth with a BD#3 and #4 buried deep, but a #4 and #5 would be better.

[JonA]

Oops forgot:

FA: J. Adamson, S. Adamson. August 2015.

[Greg]

Climbers with a waist size bigger than a 32 may experience a squeezing sensation, if it doesn't go away after a couple of hours you might be stuck.

Is this going to be NB's equivalent to Squamish's Boogie Till You Poop?

I love off widths. Psyched to get on this. Thanks for putting it up Jon!

[maxheffler]

Bald Hill, Short Wall.

Located just above the far left of the bottom tier, the short wall contains overhanging cracks of varying sizes that lead to low angle slab top outs. There is currently a faint climbers trail that leads to the base of the climbs. Hike to the overlook at the top of Bald Hill. Keep on the marked trail heading down the hill. About halfway down, look for a faint climbers trail on your left. The trail leads to the base of the climbs.

From left to right

Scarred by an Avocado 5.9+ G
12m//N/T FA: M. Heffler November 2015
Climb the overhanging hand/fist crack with a tree stump at the base
gear .75 to 4 (larger gear would protect easier terrain at the top)

Candy Apple 5.4 G
6m/N/T FA: K. McClellan, M. Heffler November 2015
Found in the middle of the tier, climb up the back of the chimney. A good climb to practice chimney technique. This route favors those of shorter stature
gear .4 to .75

Invisible Bear 5.8+ G
12m/N/T FA: K.McClellan, M.Heffler 2015
Just past Candy Apple, there are two parallel cracks (one finger and one hand). Climb the slightly overhanging cracks to access the mellow slab that leads to the tree anchor.
gear .5 to 4