Camping and climbing in NB

[granite_grrl]

We're heading to Cape Breton for a wedding this weekend, was thinking we could stop in NB for some climbing on the way back to Ontario. Looking around Aug 6th or 7th if this happens.

Looking for some beta as thing have changed since I've last climbing in NB.

I was hoping Cochrane Lane, but it seems that it may or may not be open on a day to day basis depending on training at Gagetown. Do you think it's still worthwhile to try to climb there next week? I'm a little unclear of where we go to get our day permit for climbing there, and I'm wondering if there's still camping in the horse field near the base of the crag.

Other options include climbing at other cliffs in NB, going to Kamouraska (which I also know nothing about) or climbing in Acadia in Maine.

Other other options is do more touristy stuff in Halifax or maybe taking a day to visit the old city in Quebec. I guess I won't be heart broken if we don't go climbing on this trip.

[Dom]

All crags located on CFB Gagetown are - according to Range Control - closed until Aug. 9th.
This means, Cochrane Lane, Sunnyside, Mount Douglas, Bald Peak...

What are you into? If you're looking at climbing in NB, I'd go to McQuirks for Trad climbing and Bald Cloud Bear (Bear Mountain) for sport. Both spots offer free camping. Hope this helps.

As for other areas : Kamouraska is amazing with overhanging pocketed routes on bullet hard orthoquartzite and a wonderful view of the St-Lawrence. If you go, stay at le Racoin and not Sebka. They are located 2km apart and Sebka gouges you like you have no idea. Soon, they'll start charging for breathing air there..
Le Racoin also has an awesome coffee shop that sells local and organic products only.

[granite_grrl]

Thanks Dom. I've been trying to keep up with the info for the Welsford area, but things keep changing. I think it's best just to forget climbing there and focus on other areas. With my family in NS we'll be passing back through another time, hopefully spending some time climbing there next summer.

What's left on the table not is climbing in the states (ME or NH) or climbing in QC (or skipping climbing all together, but at the very least it's a nice way to break up the drive back to ON). The beta for the campground for Kamouraska is much appreciated.