Climbing in NB with kids

[Martin]

Hey All,

I'll be traveling thru NB on a family trip to PEI next week - wondering if you guys might be able to steer me right as far as the best place to crag in NB with kids in tow. Mine are 7 and 10 and are new to climbing but athletic and have climbing in the gym before.

Ideally looking for easier routes in a nice setting - nothing too tall or steep - somewhere where we can TR and have them feel comfortable. Having climbed at Cochrane Lane years ago - I remember it being a great place with awesome climbing but don't remember if there was much easier terrain there for beginners?

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Also looking for recommendations on any local micro beers to try.

Thanks in advance!

[Joe]

Hi Martin,

I'd recommend the cliff near Kingston for family-friendly climbing. Park near 45.4933 -65.9820, then follow the trail (~300m) to the cliff. Several easy options.

For beers, check out Big Tide and Hammond River Brewery in Saint John, Picaroons and Grimross in Fredericton, and Pump House in Moncton. Check out the Shiretown Pub in Hampton for a good selection of craft beers on your way back from Kingston.

BTW, if you need a kids body harness, I have one to give away.

Enjoy NB. Joe.

[Dom]

Bonjour Martin,
Where are you coming from?

Sunnyside in Welsford fits what you are looking for. Easy approach, a nice selection of routes and a nice place to have a picnic on top of the cliff.

For beers, I agree with Joe.

[Martin]

Thanks for the beta boys! I will def check out your local beer suggestions.

As for the climbing - I am hoping to be able to stop on our way to and from PEI so am looking for a couple of cragging options. I have done a bit of research and narrowed it to: Sunnyside, Bald Peak, les Dalles au Mt. Douglas and possibly the right side of Joe's Garage. I remember hearing about Bald Peak when I first visited over 10 years ago and at the time we had dismissed it because the climbing was 'easier' and we were 'pushing grades' at the time. Fast forward a decade and 2 kids in tow and it sounds like it might be optimal? Classic old school area with easier routes and potentially nice views of the surrounding area? Any feedback on that logic?

Sunnyside sounds cool cause I might be able to get on a few harder climbs - but I'm really just gonna be happy to get out and climbing on anything really - mainly focused on the kids and my better half enjoying themselves in a nice setting.

Are the slabs at Mt. Douglas pure friction or more edgy? I'm happy to climb either - but as for beginner kids - edges would likely be much more welcoming.

The area out on the Kingston peninsula sounds intriguing. I had a friend who lived out there whom I visited last time out. I was pretty desperate to get out and climb and he told me about a cliff that he knew about. Desperate for some rock - I went out there sand cord and climb a few things on a cliff not far off and above a dirt road. I had soloed a fair bit earlier in my climbing career - but on Squamish and Yosemite granite. I remember that cliff being dirty and myself being pretty gripped out there. I think I got 3/4 up the second route I did and ended up down-climbing because of the dirt and looseness. Not my finest hour for sure. Anyway - is that the cliff? Perhaps it's cleaned up a bit? Or will feel a whole lot more pleasant with a rope? Or maybe another cliff altogether? What's the name of the cliff? I'm game to check it out either way if you think it's a good option - especially as it sounds like you've got kiddos too Joe? Is the cliff pretty evident from the parking that you forwarded? How are the bugs out there in NB these days? We'll likely be coming thru on the wknd or early next week I think.

Salut Dom - je viens de Guelph, ON. Ons va arreter au QC chez la mère de ma blonde. Ons va grimper au Kamou pour une jour aussi mais je suis interêt de checké des places au NB qui sonts plus 'off the beaten track' and that I haven't been to before and that are more obscure - hidden gems if you will. (Sorry for the bastardized French)

One of the most memorable things from my visit to Cochrane Lane years ago (aside from the great climbing on surprisingly good granite) was the friendliness of the local climbers. It really made for a great experience!

Your local beta and insight is very much appreciated! Keep it coming if it's not too much trouble.
I love the local insight!

Cheers!

[julienr78]

Martin,

I also recommend Kingston Crag http://www.mountainproject.com/v/kingst ... /107202796, the cliff is really clean. We took our 5 1/2 yrs old daughter out last Friday and she absolutely loved it, there are good options for easier routes. The access is less than a 5 minute walk which was a definite plus for her, even though she managed to trip and fall in a mud hole right before getting to the cliff The trail is very evident, just walk up the old road and you can't miss the trail at the end. We barely saw any bugs and it wasn't really windy.

I'm going back up tomorrow and I can report back on the bug situation if you want, I'd be happy to show you around if I lived closer, but I'm over an hour away in Moncton and usually climb on Fridays.

I added a few photos, that first area has a route split by a large ledge, great for a first climb with kids. The photo was taken at a weird angle, so it's steeper than it looks. You can see it in the background of the second photo.

http://imgur.com/a/HwYiC

[julienr78]

We just got back from Kingston, there were barely any black flies or mosquitoes. The deer flies were out but more annoying than hungry.

[Martin]

Hey Julien,

Thanks so much for your Kingsron suggestion and the follow up bug report!
We're climbing at Kamo this wknd and then heading down to NB after tmrw's cragging. We're def going to spend a bit of time in the Welsford area - but will also check out Kingston en route to Bay of Fundy if time and weather cooperate.

Thanks again and hopefully bump into some of you great locals at the crags!

Cheers,

Martin

[julienr78]

Martin,

Just a heads up, in case you haven't seen, that all climbing on the CFB Gagetown land is closed until the 17th because of military training exercises.