2014/2015 Ice climbing conditions

[theriault]

Welcome to the 2014/2015 Ice season! The season started this weekend, took a recce trip in Parlee Brook proper sat and things where shaping nicely. With temps dropping to -11 all night, I was confident that in the early morning cold, pitches could be climbed! I was right! I manage to climb KF gully (in WI 3 R/X condition) and All the King’s Horses ( in WI 4 X+ condition). Keep in mind that these are very early season Ice conditions, these pitches did not take screws, lots of spots had less than 1cm of ice hence the reason they were free soloed. So season is officially ON, have a good and safe season everyone!!!

[Dom]

What is the difference between an R/X rating and an X+ rating?
This is a rhetorical question

[theriault]

What is the difference between an R/X rating and an X+ rating?
This is a rhetorical question

you mean between x and x+
they are both as dangerous.... the plus is for scariness hahahah

[theriault]

Nov 21: driving to qc i stoped to check out Grand falls, things are shaping up nicely im there, i was impressed to see the conditions as these usually take a long time to form!

[Greg]

I have a real good feeling that Truancy will form this year

[theriault]

Dec 5: Stopped in Grand Falls for a look, its almost ready to go, probably by next weekend!

[theriault]

Dec 22 : Went into Parlee, Drove all the way to the cancer tree, Ice was very onion pealed, not great but climbable. With the up coming weather im not very optimist with the conditions in the near future... my suggestion, Quebec, Grand Falls and New England all have great Ice, do like me and go get it!
Merry Christmas to all Climbers!

[theriault]

Jan 03: Grand Falls is starting good, somes pillars are still forming and some are ready! with the forcast cold snap, they should be in and fat shortly!

[theriault]

Jan 07: Climbed in Welsford today, things are not as good as I would have expected, I would call it thin... but climbable!

[theriault]

Jan 08: The Hatchery is FAT FAT FAT! also the stream is frozen solid so easy travel down there!

[theriault]

Jan 08: Went to Waterfall Wall today and was quite impressed! 2 of the three main lines are in and fat! the climbers left most line is very thin at the bottom ( 3-5cm ) and detached. Please do not top rope this line in the near future, it will delaminate and have to start building all over. Its worth waiting for this beautiful line to come in! A very big surprise was the condition of Cave Fever! She's in and looking stunning with some good conditions on the slabs up top!

[Greg]

I took a quick run in to Mount Misery tonight. The ice is just so-so. Not as good as I expected. There are certainly some leadable lines there but it is still pretty thin and this is one place that would be better off left alone until it is fatter. The curtain on Golden Pillar hasn't quite touched down yet and the same with a few others. In another week or two this place is going to be looking real good.

[Joe]

Hampton Ice was leadable with 17cm screws last weekend, so it should still be good for this weekend.

[theriault]

jan 09: Climbed in Grand Falls today! Amazing conditions, -6c and basking in the sun! lot of hero ice to be found! Some of the big pillars are good to go! all the other routes are FAT FAT FAT!!!
CAUTION: The escape ramp has AVALANCHE danger, YES avalanche in NB ! snow is layering over slabs and flowing water, I noticed a few very unstable pockets that can be avoided by getting on the vertical wall and traversing to pass these sections... please take this warning seriously even tho its an easy ramp, a slide here would land a person over small ice cliffs and onto boulders.

[STeveA]

Jan 08: A very big surprise was the condition of Cave Fever! She's in and looking stunning with some good conditions on the slabs up top!

We definitely have different definitions of In. I would say thin and exciting.

[theriault]

Jan 08: A very big surprise was the condition of Cave Fever! She's in and looking stunning with some good conditions on the slabs up top!

We definitely have different definitions of In. I would say thin and exciting.

HAHA the yearly debate about IN/THIN/FAT/Climbable/Leadable/Scratchy/10-13-16-19-22cm/R,X is finally upon us! This means the season is REALLY on!

Whatever she qualifies , she is in beautiful condition right now ! and Safe to do! A must do in NB ! so Classic !

[Shawn B]

Jan 08: A very big surprise was the condition of Cave Fever! She's in and looking stunning with some good conditions on the slabs up top!

We definitely have different definitions of In. I would say thin and exciting.

Steve...you forgot "bring rock gear".

Hatchery not as well formed as expected. The "main wall" since I can't remember the names (the big wide wall on the right you get to first when walking upstream) has very thin ice on the slab sections. Pillars look well formed and stout right now. The more moderate climbs to the left of the pillars were thin compared to normal even on the top sections. Take stubbies and be prepared to tie them off. The two walls at the back left of the canyon are nice and fat accepting full length screws wherever you wish.

[theriault]

Well.... today's weather kinda blows... hopefully the costal stuff will survive! I'll hoperfully be out on recon tomorrow!

[Joe]

17 Jan - St. Martins - very thin, few lines formed.
18 Jan - Parlee - surprisingly thin. Patricks Choice, KF Gully, All the Kings Horses, Back Wall are good. Blue Pillar is marginal. Yellow Pillar, EMC and Sunbake are non-existent.

[max]

Climbed in Dorchester Cape today, Jan 25th, ice is Fat Fat! Photo on Ascent NB.

[max]

Climbed in Dorchester Cape today, Jan 25th, ice is Fat Fat! Photo on Ascent NB facebook page.

[max]

Climbed at Cape Maringouin today, Jan 28th ice is excellent and all routes are IN.

[theriault]

Jan 29 Welsford Valley

Waterfall Wall : the 3 main lines are in! everything is fat except the line to climbers left, she's thin at the bottom ( like usual ) The tracks are now made all the way to the climb, it was a battle to get there with all this fresh POW! I had snowshoes but quickly realized I should have taken my AT Skis!

Southern Road Cuts : thin

Eagle Rock : In but covered by snow

[theriault]

Jan 30: Climbed Cave Fever today With Eric ! Conditions are great! I would call it "thick" taking long screws the whole way up to the slabs witch are also in good condition since they are isolated with this nice snow blanket.

[max]

Climbed at Waterfall Wall yesterday. It is in pretty good shape a bit sun baked in spots. Cave Fever saw 2 ascents from 2 parties and everything but the far right line was climbed. The upper slabs of Cave Fever is secure with limited protection.

[Greg]

Six of us were in to Glebe Road ice yesterday. All but two lines have formed and the ice is very thick.

[Greg]

Seven of us were out at Mount Misery yesterday. The snowshoe in was easy as some others had been there before us - whoever it was thanks for breaking the trail! Pretty much everything was in and fat. I think 6 lines were led. The far left side still isn't touching down but that seems to be the norm for the past couple of years. The upper cliff was super fat! Wanted to climb there but ran out of time.

[max]

Climbed in Dorchester Cape Saturday, Feb 7th, conditions are pretty good. Some sun baked ice on the middle of the wall but otherwise ice is still forming. Some steep overhanging ice on the far right is looking ripe for the taking. Pillar has potential to come in if the water keeps flowing. Pic's on New Brunswick Climbing FB page.

[max]

Got out to Dorchester Cape today with Sam Jones, Greg Hughes and Ashlie Ferguson. 7 lines led from WI3+ to WI5.
I have to say Dorchester is off the hook right now! Solid day out!

[Greg]

Got out to Dorchester Cape today with Sam Jones, Greg Hughes and Ashlie Ferguson. 7 lines led from WI3+ to WI5.
I have to say Dorchester is off the hook right now! Solid day out!

Got to agree with Max here folks..........this place is in stellar shape right now and the access is just so good! A ten minute walk will get you to the top of the climbs. A straight forward rap in on a 70 meter rope will put you at the base of a day's worth of quality climbing. Southern exposure means staying warm on a sunny day is easy. No need for puffy jackets yesterday. Get out and enjoy this place. There is only about a month left of winter.....might as we climb ice while we still can