Utopia New Routes

[PeterA]

Feline Flakes 5.12b 20m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson April 2014
This route is located right where the trail meets Dystopia Wall. Climb up through a wall of stacked undercling flakes leading to the middle of a small roof. Pull over the roof and continue to the anchors.

Kitty Choir 5.11b 20m/S(7)(R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet, J. Adamson April 2014
Located 7m to the left of Feline Flakes, and 3m to the right of the large tree at the base of Dystopia Wall. Climb tricky sequences up past 3 bolts, then go right where the two bolted lines split. Continue up right past two more bolts, then traverse left to rejoin the left bolt line and continue up to anchors.

Vocal Kitty 5.11b 20m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, K. Maillet, P. Adamson April 2014
Shares the same start as Kitty Choir, but at the 3rd bolt go left where the two bolted lines split. Continue up on the left line to the anchors.

Here are some videos, Warning that they will ruin your onsight Also, Kitty choir has some slight profanity at the beginning.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCFNrSbgC7U

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPpXyDwfvUw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R5lXavzXHfE

-PJ

[JonA]

cool videos!

[Adam]

nice work guys! great to see some more routes going up. how dry was the rest of the cliff?

[PeterA]

A few wet streaks, but all the bolted lines on the left side of Dystopia Wall were dry

-PJ

[Dom]

Feline Flakes 5.12b 20m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson April 2014
This route is located right where the trail meets Dystopia Wall. Climb up through a wall of stacked undercling flakes leading to the middle of a small roof. Pull over the roof and continue to the anchors.

Nice! Good work! I'm surprised it goes at such a hard grade. I think I TR'ed it a while back. Was there green webbing on a tree on top?
Anyways, I can't wait to try it now that it's bolted and clean!

[Dom]

Did you guys try Bleu Haha?

[JonA]

Yep green webbing on the tree above. Crux move pulling the roof goes hard. Lots of holds around but couldn't find a way to make it go easier.

Haven't tried Bleu Haha, we have just been developing whenever we do get out there. It looks super good though.

[PeterA]

Yeah, definitely a one-move wonder. Easy 5.10ish climbing all the way except for the roof

-PJ

[Dom]

Haven't tried Bleu Haha, we have just been developing whenever we do get out there. It looks super good though.

I don't blame you - So much rock. It's awesome you guys are putting up these new routes!

Bleu haha is not super good - it's arguably the awkwardest route in NB! But it's worth climbing for that reason alone.
I asked because I wanted to know your opinion .

[JonA]

Another new route today.

Black 5.13(b?) 25m/S(15)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson, August 2014

Located on the left side of Dystopia wall. The route begins up a vertical, 10ft wide black streak where the ground begins to slope uphill. Technical face climbing and powerful moves lead to a large ledge. Climb directly over the next bulge to gain another ledge. Right off the ledge are a few juggy blocks that don't look the best, but they don't seem to move. Head through the blocks and up the overhanging headwall to the anchors.

[Adam]

Another new route today.

Black 5.13(b?) 25m/S(15)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson, August 2014

Located on the left side of Dystopia wall. The route begins up a vertical, 10ft wide black streak where the ground begins to slope uphill. Technical face climbing and powerful moves lead to a large ledge. Climb directly over the next bulge to gain another ledge. Right off the ledge are a few juggy blocks that don't look the best, but they don't seem to move. Head through the blocks and up the overhanging headwall to the anchors.

NICE! Good job boys!

[Brad Wilson]

Nice work on the development and info on this site. How many of the developed routes here stay dry in the rain? Thanks!

[PeterA]

So far at Utopia there are only a handful of routes that will stay dry in the rain. They are Inversion 12c, The crypt keeper which is an open project (the first bolted line to the right of inversion), and potentially I Am the Liquor which is a closed project as far as I know with fixed draws.

-PJ

[PeterA]

Also, Black will probably stay dry in a light rain, but will get wet if there is anything more

[Brad Wilson]

Awesome Peter thanks for the information! I'm excited to check out this area at some point soon!

[PeterA]

Feel free to send me a message if you are heading there, I'd be stoked to show you around

[JonA]

2 new routes this weekend.

Steep As Flake 5.11b 6m/S(4)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P.Adamson. September 2014.

Located on the short, steep wall up and left of dystopia wall. Be careful as the slope leading up to this wall is very loose.

The route begins above a dirty slab about 20m left of the access gully. Climb a large, juggy flake to the fourth bolt. Traverse right slightly and finish on a short hand crack. A rare route for NB, very steep and very juggy! The first move may be a bit reachy.




Chow Meow 5.11d 10m/S(5)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P.Adamson, S. Wilson. September 2014.

Located 5ft right of the where the trail meets the cliff, where the stacked, left-facing flakes turn back to more solid face. Climb big holds to the large horizontal ledge/roof. Climb through the face above, and finish on good holds. Expect a difficult clip at the crux.

[PeterA]

Here are some pics of steep as flake, really good route.



-PJ

[Adam]

I installed a new access anchor above Dystopia Wall. This anchor will give easy and rope friendly rappel access to many of the anchors on the wall.

Left two of my lockers on it but will replace with some quicklinks next time I'm down.

[JonA]

Green 5.12b/c 15m/S(7)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson October 2014

This route is located between the left facing corner of 'Pink' and the wide black streak of 'Black', below a left-angling crack/seam. Start on heinous crimps just left of where the ground begins to slope uphill. This route requires a variety of techniques on interesting features. Finish at rap anchor located on the large ledge halfway up the cliff.

[Terry_M]

I noticed a few weekends ago that the carabiner on the roof of Daily Beating was gone. I put that biner there to make it easier to clean (i.e. remove draws on) the bottom of the route. Maybe I should have zip tied it

[PeterA]

Nothing but Knot 5.12b 27m/S(12)/Q
FA P. Adamson, A. Morgan November 2014

Bolted line right of Daily Beating. Starts with sustained face climbing to a ledge and a rest. Continue past a small overlap to another rest. Move up and right through a final overlap to the top.

Absentee Landlord 5.11a 20m/S(9)/Q
FA P. Adamson, A. Morgan November 2014

Start 6m right of Nothing but Knot, standing on a small boulder. Fire a few bouldery moves before trending left up a ramp. Clip a long draw on the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag. Move back right onto the face and race the pump to the top!

-PJ

[Adam]

that reminds me - Pink has seen a few ascents now and is no longer a project as it is listed in the guidebook.

[Adam]

oh also - this year I also added a bolt to Worst Case Ontario to remove ground fall potential.

[F Côté]

What routes are still closed projects at utopia?

[PeterA]

as far as I know there aren't any closed projects at Utopia. I think the only projects left are on the overhang and I believe they are all open. Might be good to check with some of the other utopia developers just to make sure though

-PJ

[Dom]

Yeah that's what I told him. However, I think there is a route on Dystopia that Sam Stiles et al. have bolted that is not completed and, thus, remains closed.

[JonA]

They should get on it then. I disagree with keeping routes closed Ad Infinitum. Regardless of how much time and money you spent developing a route, at some point it has to become open.

I'm not too worried about setting a hard deadline, especially if you're out there every weekend busting your ass to get the send, but rapping a line and slamming in a few bolts shouldn't reserve you private access to public rock for the next decade.

Internet Disclaimer: I'm not complaining about this route, any route, Sam Stiles, or any person in particular! Just throwing my two cents in (that rounds down to no cents (sense?) in Canada now )

[SamS]

For the record I don't give two shits of someone climbs my route before me. I have never to my recollection called it "closed", in fact the first time I ever spoke with someone about it (Francois), I believe the first thing I told him was "you will need to come down with me and send it because it's out of my climbing reach right now"

[SamS]

Speaking of bolting routes, what's up with the club drill now that Adam is MIA for a few months? Does anyone have it that could lend it out next weekend?