NS Ice 2013-14

[max]

Was out climbing in Joggins this afternoon. Things are coming in quite nicely! Barbele is thin, Rainy Days is IN and I climbed 4 new lines.

From the pull out on Shuile Rd you travel west along the beach, after about 15minutes you'll see 2 gulleys the first: Seer WI2 25m FA Max Fisher Dec 2013
the 2nd:
Revelator WI 3 30m FA Max Fisher Dec 2013

Continue west along the beach 5 minutes past Barbele and Matecito there is a wide steep flow with a huge ledge 2m of the ground the top is also capped with funky gargoyle like features. There are a number of variations.
Sacred Balance WI4 25m FA Max Fisher 2013

50m west along the beach you'll you the next climb again a few variations. I climbed the right side.
Liquid Gold WI3 25m FA Max Fisher 2013

I'll post a few photo's of Climb NS facebook page.

[max]

Luc and I scouted a large section of Coast just past Joggins. We walked about 4km traveling east along the beach. At which point we go to ice we had seen from Barbele which is very close to Scared Balance. We climbed 3 new routes:

200m west of Sacred Balance

Nini in the Nini WI3 25m FA Max Fisher and Luc Gallant
Ice doesn't go to the top so there is some chossy climbing high above your gear, it is easy.

Punta WI4 25m FA Luc Gallant and Max Fisher
10 metres right of Nini in the Nini and also has some chossy climbing to top out.

800m west of Punta

The Pickla WI3 7m FA Luc Gallant and Max Fisher

[Matt Peck]

In to Folly River today in the rain. Lines in the gorge below the low falls are in but thin, should be building big-time in the up coming cold.

[Rich]

Hey Matt,

Could you cross the river at any point?

rich

[max]

Climbed in Advocate Harbour Dec 27th. There is some amazing climbing to be had! We climbed 2 routes, I assume new, both
WI4 175m.

And climbed in Cape D'Or today. This is the home to the hardest ice I have seen in the Maritimes. 2-3 pitch WI5-6+ probably 8-10 lines. We climbed the easier routes by the Lighthouse which are WI3-3+ 60m. Going back this week for to get after some of the hard lines. I'll post some pictures on Climb Nova Scotia FB page of the climbs later in the week.

[Rich]

Hey Max,

Sounds wicked - but is "175m" a typo??!!

r

[Rich]

Got out to swing the tools at Gibralter today - things are in pretty good shape. For anybody who hasn't been there before and is interested - its up from Musqudoboit Harbour near Meaghars Grant. From the parking lot hike down the tracks about 5 min and then head up the hill - ice is at the far right end of the crag, above where the "Delivery Boy" boulder problem is. Popular top-roping spot back in the day but nothing much over 10 m. Good place to go if you only have a few hours (its relatively close to the Halifax) or looking to set up some easy top-ropes. Supports close to 10 routes or so , although half of these are just thin smears / would require a bit of rock gear depending on the conditions, and some others are only about 5 m in height.

Led a few climbs today, including a smear that took a couple of stubbies and some fun mixed routes somewhere in the M3-M5 range, I'm guessing. Some thicker ice formed on the shorter section of the wall that would take some longer screws.

cheers

rich

[max]

No typo Cape Chignecto has big routes 175m long!! Full value day out!

Max

[Rich]

Out on the Folley today - lots of fat ice! River is frozen over enough to hike it.

[max]

Greg Hughes and I climbed in Cape D'Or yesterday (Matt Peck joined us too) and today. We climbed 2 new routes:

Enter the Dragon WI5 130m
Pitch 1 WI2 70m
-climb up a fun gulley
Pitch 2 WI4+ 25m
-climb steep ice to a ice ledge below gargoyles.... excellent pitch!
Pitch 3 WI5 35m
-climb steep, techy, pumpy terrain through gargoyles and tunnels to top... Wild!

2 Raps with a little down climbing gets you to the beach

The Sweet Chimney of Love WI3+ M5R 110m
Pitch 1 50m WI3
-climb thin and fun ice to below chimney
Pitch 2 50 WI3+ M5 R
- climb chimney through thin ice overlaps on to easier ground. ice is thin and rock has no pro

2 Rap or walk N to descent gully WI1+

[max]

Was at Fossil Wall in Joggins today with Luc Gallant. As expected it was brittle, windy and cold. If you have Rogers new guide UIC WI4+ is in great form as well as A Storm of Swords WI4..... but Central Pillar isn't doing well and the gargoyles that formed last year are nowhere to be seen. We climbed 2 lines, froze our ass's off and where smiling when we got back to the truck. Good day all around.

[Matt Peck]

Into Moose River yeasterday on an epic overland Deathmarch with Kristen and Leanne Fisher and Derek Hatfield. Due to the river being open we tried a new way into the gorge which was quite successful if long. We were able to get to the first set of falls in the upper gorge which were negotiable until we ran into a 10m section of open water guarded by steep canyon on the sides. Attempts to climb up and around were thwarted by 30m rock walls and a lack of daylight. We retreated to the first set of falls, bypassing a killer freehanging pillar that we left unmolested due to a lack of pins. We ended up getting on two easy lines: Mooring Lines WI 3+ FFA Matthew Peck and Kristen Fisher Unforeseen Circumstances WI2+ FFA Derek Hatfield and Leanne Fisher (this climb has a tougher upper pitch that didnt get climbed due to time). Lots of amazing terrain in this neck of the woods, but be prepared for a hell of a walk if the river isnt frozen.

[Adam]

Into Moose River yeasterday

are you trying to get a rise out of us? or just ferment a little debate?

[Matt Peck]

Ice fest was a happenin place yesterday, and while there weren't as many brave souls as there could be trying it for the first time, some of the regulars were on a tear. Lots of good stuff climbed by all, and the changing shape of that particular piece of coastline is giving rise to some new lines. About 400m along the beach there is a stretch of wall with a sizable scree pile below and a long eroded slope above. The wall in between is currently home to some pretty cool pillars, including a monster that got toproped yesterday. Some of the Truro Gang and I got on a new line which lead to some particularly spectacular belaying when the topout exploded underfoot during the anchor construction.
Self-Destructor WI4 20m
FFA Matthew Peck, Kristen & Leanne Fisher, Feb 9, 2014
This flow starts up a ramp beside a huge boulder to the right of the big scree pile in the eroded section of the Beach. Climb the easy ramp to steeper ice, but be aware of exploding curtains and bulges. An Ice anchor is recommended for the lead, as the final 8 m involve steep unprotectable dirt climbing to a classic NS eroded moss finish at the treeline.

[chossmonkey]

Good info here. Maybe I should start an archive thread?