New Routes 2013

[Dom]

The 2013 climbing season has begun and so has the new-routing.

This route replaces the old TR called Filter Queen at Joe's Garage.

Jacuzzi 5.11c/d PG
27m/M(3)/Q FFA: D.Caron, M.Thériault 2013
Climb the 5.5 PG start of Think Pure Thoughts. Instead of going on the TPT traverse, head up on nice plates past a bolt to gain a horizontal crack. From here, a small flake will lead you to an immaculate technical granite face past two more bolts to the top. Edging shoes required! Bring from 0.4 to 0.75 C4 for the horizontal.

As always, grade is unconfirmed and needs more repeats. So if you climb the route, let me know what you think in terms of grade, stars, etc.

Also the 'Q' in the description means Quick-clips.

[motanb]

Great job Dom and Marty!

I'd top-roped Filter Queen years ago, and recall it being more-or-less in line with the suggested grade of 11+. Of course leading it changes the game.

I wonder what other unplucked lines await to be developed on Joe's? Not much comes to mind. "Quit the Chit Chit", located just to the right of Bonemachine, is a project i scrubbed and worked on tr around 1998. It's likely solid 12+. Maybe even 13?? Anyway, it's an independent line and obvious project for someone with the motivation to finish and open up for other contenders!

Looking forward to a great 2013 season!

[F Côté]

Roadkill 5.10d/11a
22m/S(8)/R(2) FFA: F. Côté, I. Lingley 2013
Start using the first bolt of Porcupine BBQ and then follow the line to the right. Move past an interesting sequence of underclings and sidepulls which leads to easier climbing on a ramp. Optional small - medium cam on the ramp. Finish up the headwall leading to a cruxy move just before the anchors.

For whoever climbs this route, let me know what you think of the route and the grade.

[PeterA]

Free ascent of previous toprope project at bear mountain

NAYSAYER 5.12 R 30’/N/B(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, D. Caron
Found on the arête between “Locksmith” and “Full Body Rock Rash”. Head straight up the arête to the offwidth to the finger crack at the top.

-PJ

[cory]

There is a line of 4 new bolts at Cedar Pt. between Gomez, et. al. and Yodelling Yak that to merge with the former to finish. It's an interesting and worthwhile addition but the Who? What? When? of the FA hasn't been reported yet as far as I can see. Does anybody know the details?

[theriault]

Free ascent of previous toprope project at bear mountain

NAYSAYER 5.12 R 30’/N/B(2)
FFA: P. Adamson, D. Caron
Found on the arête between “Locksmith” and “Full Body Rock Rash”. Head straight up the arête to the offwidth to the finger crack at the top.

-PJ

Good work Guy's!!! stout line!!!

[Dom]

There is a line of 4 new bolts at Cedar Pt. between Gomez, et. al. and Yodelling Yak that to merge with the former to finish. It's an interesting and worthwhile addition but the Who? What? When? of the FA hasn't been reported yet as far as I can see. Does anybody know the details?

It's an Ian Lingley route (link-up?). Dominion something...Anyways, it will be in the guidebook...that should be out within 2 weeks at this point.

Adam and I also put up routes this weekend at Utopia. They will also be in the new guidebook.

[cory]

It's an Ian Lingley route (link-up?). Dominion something

thanks

guidebook...that should be out within 2 weeks at this point.

and a huge thanks for this!

[PeterA]

Two new routes at Bear, on the watchtower formation at the second tier

It's not an easy ten 5.10- 30'/S(3)/B(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
FFA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
20' right of stumped. Find the large boulder perched on a slap and supported by a large pillar. Climb the left side of the pillar, step briefly onto the slab, then step back onto the boulder and climb the arete to the top.

All along the watchtower 5.8 30'/S(2)/B(2)
FA: S. Adamson, P. Adamson, J. Adamson
FFA: S. Adamson, P. Adamson, J. Adamson
Start as for It's not an easy ten but instead of going up the pillar, traverse a ramp right across the pillar, then climb up the right side of the large boulder. A less fun but more direct start can also be done by going straight up the right side of the pillar

-PJ

[Fred]

I climbed a route a couple weeks ago at Sunnyside. It was left of Embers. I was told it was 5.4 but just wanted to offer my two cents that it was closer to 5.6. Nice addition.

[Dom]

I climbed a route a couple weeks ago at Sunnyside. It was left of Embers. I was told it was 5.4 but just wanted to offer my two cents that it was closer to 5.6. Nice addition.

Snakes & Arrows. Andrew Martin put it up on trad a few years back and Marty and I retrobolted it with his consent this spring. Goes at 5.5 in the new guide. One of the easiest sport route in the province!

[PeterA]

Dynamic Piggy 5.12a 15m/N/R(2)
FA:P. Adamson, J. Adamson August 2013
Start as for dynamic duo. At 15' traverse right across a right trending upward angling crack and connect with ziggy piggy. Finish up ziggy piggy.

-PJ

[Greg]

Here's an update on new routes at McQuirk:

X Wall

Fifty Mission Cap 5.10c G 120' / M (1) / R (2)
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker May 2013
Scramble up a steep mossy gulley to a corner leading to a big roof. Belay near the base of a double stump. Climb to the roof, exiting left and get on top of the cap. Continue up the long corner crack system and when possible traverse right to clip a bolt. Keep moving right until you gain another vertical crack system leading to the top. Watch out for rope drag.

The Dance Platform 5.8 G 70’ / N / R (2)
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker April 2013
Same start as Magic X but step right moving toward a big dihedral/corner system. Climb cracks to a large flat ledge.

Main Wall

Octopus Ink 5.7 G 180’ / N / T
FA: M. Parker, G. Hughes July 2013
Pitch 1: This route begins on the X Wall and crosses over the arête to the Main Wall. Begin down and right from Dance Platform starting near a stump and climb the arête (several starts/lines are possible). Cross over the arête, step up and right to the bolt anchor for Crack Machine and belay. The gear on this pitch is good but you have to look for it! 80 feet
Pitch 2: Move up through a niche into the beautiful right leaning finger and hand crack that leads all the way to the top of the cliff. 100 feet

[PeterA]

New route in St. George at Utopia, on the sunnyvale wall

Inversion 5.12c 25m/S(13)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson Sep. 2013
From the 2nd bolt of Cat in the Hat break up and right, climbing into a pink corner on the slab. Move out of the corner and onto a short arete. Climb the short arete up into the bottom of a bombay chimney. Follow this chimney to the top, then exit out left over a bulge to the anchors.
Rope drag can be an issue on this route. Long runners and appropriate back cleaning is recommended on this route. A long draw should especially be used on the 11th bolt.

-PJ

[theriault]

New route on Joe's in Cochrane Lane

Chiggers 5.10G 27m/N/T
FA: M. Theriault, L.F. Miller Sept 2013
Start from the “Bullwhip Days” anchor, make your way past a small overlap, then left of a big pine tree. Follow a long splitter finger crack, move left under the roof to plug in some small but good gear. Pull the roof and make your way to the obvious pine tree with a cordelette anchor. Gear up to #1 BD and double up on finger sized and smaller is recommended.

This route can be accessed by climbing “Bullwhip Days” or for an easier alternative, climb the bolted part of “Astroboy Direct”. At the horizontal crack, traverse 2m right (5.4G) to the bolted anchor

Grade needs confirmation.

[Adam]

New route in St. George at Utopia, on the sunnyvale wall

Inversion 5.12c 25m/S(13)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson Sep. 2013
From the 2nd bolt of Cat in the Hat break up and right, climbing into a pink corner on the slab. Move out of the corner and onto a short arete. Climb the short arete up into the bottom of a bombay chimney. Follow this chimney to the top, then exit out left over a bulge to the anchors.
Rope drag can be an issue on this route. Long runners and appropriate back cleaning is recommended on this route. A long draw should especially be used on the 11th bolt.

-PJ

nice! how's the rock quality up there?

[PeterA]

New route in St. George at Utopia, on the sunnyvale wall

Inversion 5.12c 25m/S(13)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson Sep. 2013
From the 2nd bolt of Cat in the Hat break up and right, climbing into a pink corner on the slab. Move out of the corner and onto a short arete. Climb the short arete up into the bottom of a bombay chimney. Follow this chimney to the top, then exit out left over a bulge to the anchors.
Rope drag can be an issue on this route. Long runners and appropriate back cleaning is recommended on this route. A long draw should especially be used on the 11th bolt.

-PJ

nice! how's the rock quality up there?

It's reasonably good. Definitely a few flakes and stuff still that may break off, but overall fairly solid. There is one large block at the top that looks scary, but I literally hung completely off it on the send and it didn't budge.

This route is easily one of the wildest routes in NB. Definitely jump on it next time you're there

[PeterA]

Another one on sunnyvale wall. I believe this climbs a similar line to the old toprope project "Cheeseburger picnic" but based on the amount of loose rock removed I would guess that it doesn't follow it exactly.

Roast Pastry Dick 5.11d 30m/S(10)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson, E. Samis
This route climbs the face immediately right of the large overhanging section of sunnyvale wall. Start up the slab on the lower right side below the overhang to a sloping ledge. Climb off the sloping ledge and continue up the face, following the path of least resistance to the top.

-PJ

[PeterA]

Completed the link up brother of dynamic piggy

Ziggy Duo 5.13a 15m/N/T
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet Oct. 2013
Start as for Ziggy Piggy. At 4m height, break out left and up into a thin vertical seam with a pin in it. Climb to the pin, then make hard moves left to join up with dynamic duo. Finish as for dynamic duo.

-PJ

[F Côté]

New route at Exfoliated wall at CL

A Feat of Flailing Feet 5.9 G
25m/N/T
FA: F. Côté, N. Ingalls
Climb the blocky corner 15 ft left of Trouble with Lichen up to a good rest half way up. From the rest, fight your way up the wide slightly overhanging corner crack, then enjoy the final headwall to the top.

The tree anchor is a little ways back from the cliff edge, so a bolted anchor would be beneficial if anyone has access to a drill and wouldn't mind lending a hand. However it is still possible to rappel off the tree without too much rope drag.

[F Côté]

Oh and I left an extended rope anchor around the tree which reaches close to the cliff edge as a temporary measure.

[Greg]

New route at Exfoliated wall at CL

A Feat of Flailing Feet 5.9 G
25m/N/T
FA: F. Côté, N. Ingalls
Climb the blocky corner 15 ft left of Trouble with Lichen up to a good rest half way up. From the rest, fight your way up the wide slightly overhanging corner crack, then enjoy the final headwall to the top.

The tree anchor is a little ways back from the cliff edge, so a bolted anchor would be beneficial if anyone has access to a drill and wouldn't mind lending a hand. However it is still possible to rappel off the tree without too much rope drag.

Nice work! Sounds like an interesting route. I look forward to climbing it the next time I am there.

[magda]

New route at Sunnyside.

Honey Bear 5.6 8m/S(3)/Q
FA: M. Celejewski, L.F. Miller Nov. 2013
Climb the bolted line between Celestial Motion and Two-Armed Bandit. A nice mellow climb, perfect for new leaders, with an interesting yet well bolted crux.



Currently has 2 bolts and one locking biner at the anchor, this will be replaced by quickclips and the climb will receive another scrub in the upcoming week.

[theriault]

New route at Sunnyside.

Honey Bear 5.6 8m/S(3)/Q
FA: M. Celejewski, L.F. Miller Nov. 2013
Climb the bolted line between Celestial Motion and Two-Armed Bandit. A nice mellow climb, perfect for new leaders, with an interesting yet well bolted crux.

Could this be the first ALL FEMALE First Ascent in NB???? Either way, good job Girls!!!

[Adam]

New route at Sunnyside.

Honey Bear 5.6 8m/S(3)/Q
FA: M. Celejewski, L.F. Miller Nov. 2013
Climb the bolted line between Celestial Motion and Two-Armed Bandit. A nice mellow climb, perfect for new leaders, with an interesting yet well bolted crux.



Currently has 2 bolts and one locking biner at the anchor, this will be replaced by quickclips and the climb will receive another scrub in the upcoming week.

gettin'er done! not many routes are put up at this time of year - good work!

[magda]

Honey Bear is now very clean. Quick clips installed.

Wicked huge thanks to Marty for providing the how-to, where-how and hardware. As well as the patience.

Love ♥,
Lauren and Magda