Bar Harbour routes

[Fred]

for those of you familiar with routes at Precipice in BH I have a question

can you do "chitlins" (spell?) corner with one rope? I don't mean the 5.10 roof top out but... can you rap off the bolt anchor somehow off the first pitch. The book says 170ft but can you swing over to a nearby belay?

Also, what is the route that goes up the arete just left of "Old Town"? Looks pretty sweet. I think it starts up that huge offwidth layback then comes out onto the face and arete.

[Brent]

Yes you can do Chitlins with one rope. Swing to an anchor on climbers left to descend. The route by Old Town is called Swept Away 5.11d. It starts in the off width and breaks right onto the arete at a notch.

[Fred]

tell me more about "Return to Forever". What's that route like? Sandbag? good gear?

[Brent]

It is a solid 5.9. Good gear. The holds can be greasy in places. I usually climb up and right to start and then traverse left at the roof. I then back clean any pieces that are to the right, usually just one with in an arms reach.

[Brent]

It has been led on water knots.

[Shawn B]

I do the same. From the top of old town, either scramble straight up to the next ledge or do the bolted arete to the left to get to the next ledge. Go out right and up easy ground up to the roof and then traverse back left to the corner. You can go direct but there is no gear and it is a slippery mantle up through a smooth section that looks like a block fell out of. From the roof, great gear to the top. Don't forget to stem. I'd also recommend green mountain breakdown (breaks up the right wall of chitlins for p1 (yes it is only 5.7) and then up the arete for p2 5.9), gunklandia p1 to emmigrant crack, fear of flying, bartlebys and pacifica. All superb.