Woodlot Bouldering

[austinconrad]

Thimot and I went to the woodlot today to do some cleaning and climbing. We cleaned off a very dirty boulder and made two pretty fun routes on it and cleaned a third but didn't have enough time/energy left to climb it. I know there is a guidebook somewhere online with some routes and desrciptions in it but most of the stuff in there is pretty dirty and obviously hasn't been touched in awhile. We ended up grading and naming both routes and placing little slate signs with the name and grade scratched into them at the bottom of the routes. I just want to make sure noone gets mad that I might be naming soemthing that's allready been done before. What's the ethic for a boulder problem that's super dirty and overgrown/does anybody have a clear guide somewhere that indicates what's allready been done? We plan on working in this area for awhile and cleaning/sending many more routes. There is some decent stuff in there if you're bored of the gym but don't have enough time to get to Welsford.

[*Chris*]

For what it's worth I've been working in the woodlot for a year now unearthing, de-vegetating, and maintaining old mountain bike trails that have been abandoned 10 years ago. I re-named them all. So far I've got nothing but positive feedback. I'll probably see you out there. If I can send your problem with my bike cleats on I get to downgrade it.

If you were interested you could probably get Fred to upload the old guide that was on beta-source.com. I'm sure he wouldn't mind.

[austinconrad]

Hahaha well it's hard to downgrade V0 One is a V0 the other is V2. I'll put up some pics in the next few days.

[sam]

For what it's worth I've been working in the woodlot for a year now unearthing, de-vegetating, and maintaining old mountain bike trails that have been abandoned 10 years ago. I re-named them all. So far I've got nothing but positive feedback. I'll probably see you out there. If I can send your problem with my bike cleats on I get to downgrade it.

If you were interested you could probably get Fred to upload the old guide that was on beta-source.com. I'm sure he wouldn't mind.

I tried to get this guide awhile ago and had no luck, I believe it's lost to the ages for good (feel free to correct me Fred - I scoured both the web server in question and web.archive.org and found no trace). If that's the case I think cleaners should get to rename them (especially if they're the only ones climbing them in years, and putting named nameplates on them)

[Dom]

For what it's worth I've been working in the woodlot for a year now unearthing, de-vegetating, and maintaining old mountain bike trails that have been abandoned 10 years ago. I re-named them all. So far I've got nothing but positive feedback. I'll probably see you out there. If I can send your problem with my bike cleats on I get to downgrade it.

If you were interested you could probably get Fred to upload the old guide that was on beta-source.com. I'm sure he wouldn't mind.

I tried to get this guide awhile ago and had no luck, I believe it's lost to the ages for good (feel free to correct me Fred - I scoured the web server in question and found no trace). If that's the case I think cleaners should get to rename them (especially if they're the only ones climbing them in years, and putting named nameplates on them)

Although I have never bouldered there, I may have the guide in my old laptop computer. I'll check tonight...


As for renaming routes, problems, it's been done before for overgrown routes. Here are a few examples:
-Snakepeel was called Momentary Lapse of Grace. For more info check the route description in the new guidebook.
-Tut's Tomb (or Pharaoh Fawcet, not sure which one I'm at work and I don't have the guidebook in front of me) was led and named but never cleaned. Fred later came along, spent lots of time scrubbing it and thought he had an FA...Only the name he gave stuck around
-Bitch, Recognize was lead by Thom Anderson. Fred later cleaned it and bolted it and named it that beautiful name. Again, it's the one that stuck...

I'm indifferent to the whole thing. Do what you want and have fun. Don't wait for an approval from the "climbing gods" before actually doing something that contributes to the NB climbing scene.

[sam]

I'm indifferent to the whole thing. Do what you want and have fun. Don't wait for an approval from the "climbing gods" before actually doing something that contributes to the NB climbing scene.

That's kinda what I was thinking. If our small handful of Fredericton outdoor boulderers are the only one climbing and cleaning the routes in years, I figure we are probably OK to rename them.

PS: What the hell you've never bouldered there? It's not spectacular or anything but its super close and worth an evening of your time... come with us next week after work

[Dom]

I'm not saying that renaming routes is OK. I'm simply saying that you're better off just doing it, especially since you have no idea what the names are as it hasn't been documented well.

As for going bouldering there, sure I'm down to check it out next week.

[theriault]

PS: What the hell you've never bouldered there? It's not spectacular or anything but its super close and worth an evening of your time... come with us next week after work

PS Im not talking for Dom here, but we both live in Oromocto... aka 22min to sunnyside, 24min Mt Doug, 26min Cochrane Lane... and 15min to the woodlot.... I know what I pick for after work sessions

[sam]

PS: What the hell you've never bouldered there? It's not spectacular or anything but its super close and worth an evening of your time... come with us next week after work

PS Im not talking for Dom here, but we both live in Oromocto... aka 22min to sunnyside, 24min Mt Doug, 26min Cochrane Lane... and 15min to the woodlot.... I know what I pick for after work sessions

Fair enough haha

[austinconrad]

Thanks for the input guys I really appreciate it. I didn't feel like I needed permission from the climbing gods but I thought it might be a good idea to post it here to see what the general feeling was on the subject. I will use common sense to make the decision to rename routes. There are certainly routes that are absolutely not up for grabs such as the ones right at the beggining of the trail that quite clearly have a ton of chalk on the holds. The two we cleaned yesterday have been cleaned, graded and named.

Godzilla Banana (Adam came up with this name) V0

Kissing the Dirt V2 (grade may be a bit sandbagged but maybe not I suck at grading boulders)

I'll post some pics/descriptions later once I get the pics on my computer.

BTW Chris I have biked a few of those MTB trails with Sam and we had a blast Very fun! I rode a few of them yesterday after cleaning those boulder problems. They where a little wet of course but hey that's half the fun right?

[Stef]

I have a copy of Ghislain's 1999 guide if anyone wants it, I'll scan it to PDF. Drop me PM with your e-mail address.