NEW ROUTES LOG

[Dom]

These are the new routes since the publication of the 2013 edition of the guidebook.


COCHRANE LANE

Upper Dawn

Dynamic Piggy 5.12a 15m/N/R(2)
FA:P. Adamson, J. Adamson August 2013
Start as for dynamic duo. At 4m height traverse right across a right trending upward angling crack and connect with ziggy piggy. Finish up ziggy piggy.

Ziggy Duo 5.13a 15m/N/T
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet Oct. 2013
Start as for Ziggy Piggy. At 4m height, break out left and up into a thin vertical seam with a pin in it. Climb to the pin, then make hard moves left to join up with dynamic duo. Finish as for dynamic duo.


Joe's Garage

Chiggers 5.10 G 27m/N/T
FA: M. Theriault, L.F. Miller Sept 2013
This route can be accessed by climbing Bullwhip Days or for an easier alternative, climb the bolted part of Astroboy Direct. At the horizontal crack, traverse 2m right (5.4G) to the bolted anchor. Start from the Bullwhip Days anchor, make your way past a small overlap, then left of a big pine tree. Follow a long splitter finger crack, move left under the roof to plug in some small but good gear. Pull the roof and make your way to the obvious pine tree with a cordelette anchor. Gear up to #1 BD and double up on finger sized and smaller is recommended.

Dinah Moe Humm 5.12b 30m/M(3)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson Aug 2016
Climb Check Your Prostate until the point where it traverses right to the Rock Opera anchors. Instead of traversing right, continue straight up the slab past two bolts. Clip a third bolt out on the roof, then pull the lip. Continue straight up to the Gumby's Roof anchors.

Mon Premier French Kiss 5.13 35m/N/R(2)
FFA:P. Adamson, J. Adamson 2016
Climb the entirety of the large arch located in the center of Joe's Garage. Can be done as one pitch, but it is more convenient to break it into two. The grade is unchanged either way, as the belay comes at a no hands stance.
Pitch 1: Start at the base of the arch and climb until you reach an obvious no hand stance. Belay here (two bolt anchor) 15m 5.13
Pitch 2: Continue up the arch, climbing through a short wide section, then traversing straight left under the roof to meet up with Telefunken U-47. Belay at Telefunken anchors. 20m 5.11

EXFOLIATED WALL

A Feat of Flailing Feet 5.9 G 25m/N/T
FA: F. Côté, N. Ingalls
Climb the blocky corner 15 ft left of Trouble with Lichen up to a good rest half way up. From the rest, fight your way up the wide slightly overhanging corner crack, then enjoy the final headwall to the top.

THE ATTIC

Little Spoon 5.11a 13m/S(4)/b(2)
FA: F. Côté, K. Demolitor 2015
Found at the right end of the main Attic face, 3m right of Poche. Climb the crimpy face, trending left after the second bolt, then straight up past a small ledge to the anchors. Stick clipping the first bolt is recommended.

Big Spoon 5.10d 13m/S(4)/R(2)
FA: K.deMolitor, S. Pacey-Smith 2016
Located directly right of Little Spoon. Follow the crimpy face trending right of the bolts to a couple of big moves. Pull the ledge and continue up the arete. This route shares an anchor with Little Spoon.

SUNNYSIDE

Honey Bear 5.6 8m/S(3)/Q
FA: M. Celejewski, L.F. Miller Nov. 2013
Climb the bolted line between Celestial Motion and Two-Armed Bandit. A nice mellow climb, perfect for new leaders, with an interesting yet well bolted crux.

Sith Wall

Tattoine 5.10a 20m/M(2)/T
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet Oct. 2013
This route lies about 7m to the right of Sith, just to the right of the fir tree at the top, on the highpoint of Sith wall. Climb through a chossy break in the roof, then continue straight up, joining up with a vertical crack. Follow the crack to the top.

The Force 5.12a 20m/S(4)/b(2)
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet Oct. 2013
Found 3m to the right of Tattoine, climb through the roof, then make a hard traverse to the right, into the prominent black streak. Continue up and left, then to the anchors.
Note: It is strongly recommended that the first bolt be stick-clipped on this climb. It may also be a good idea to use locking biners on the first bolt.

The Jedi Order 5.12b 20m/S(5)/b(2)
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet Oct. 2013
Found 3m to the right of The Force, Climb up to the roof, pull around, then make a hard traverse to the left, and continue straight up to the anchors.

Exode 5.11a 18m/S(6)/Q
FA: M. Theriault et al. May 2015
The climb is located on the far right of the Darkside wall. Look for a clean slab with a single bolt on it. Climb the easy slab to a big roof/overhang and power your way to the top on juggy holds. This is a very unique route for the area.

BEAR MOUNTAIN

Second Tier

It's not an easy ten 5.10- 10m/S(3)/B
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson
20' right of stumped. Find the large boulder perched on a slap and supported by a large pillar. Climb the left side of the pillar, step briefly onto the slab, then step back onto the boulder and climb the arete to the top.

All along the watchtower 5.8 10m/S(2)/B
FA: S. Adamson, P. Adamson, J. Adamson
Start as for It's not an easy ten but instead of going up the pillar, traverse a ramp right across the pillar, then climb up the right side of the large boulder. A less fun but more direct start can also be done by going straight up the right side of the pillar

Lower Tier

Kaliya 5.10c 10m/N/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, July 2015
This route is located by the right hand arete of The Dragon's Reign wall (just left of My Other Woman is a Handcrack). Begin in a short chimney that is capped with an overhanging block which forms twin cracks at the top of the chimney. Pull over this block onto the large ledge. Traverse the horizontal left of the ledge to reach good flakes. Climb the flakes to get to a series of horizontals. Use the horizontals to continue traversing left until it is possible to top out onto the large ledge.

Chouette 5.7 10m/S(8)/R(2)
FA: S. Wilson, J. Adamson August 2015
This route is located on the lower tier 10 metres left of the access gully. Climb to the right of the bolted line to reach a large bulge and continue up the left arête of the bulge to the anchor.

Bear Knuckle Boxing 5.11b 20m/S(10)/R(2)
FA:P. Adamson, S. Adamson, J. Adamson July 2016
Starts underneath the large roof on the lower tier. Climb up to the first bolt, then traverse right into a corner. Climb partway up the corner, then traverse right out of the corner to join up with Magical Mystery Tour. Clip two bolts on Magical Mystery Tour, but instead of taking the final traverse of Magical Mystery Tour continue straight up a seam past two more bolts to the top.
Note: This route suffers from poorer rock quality then the rest of the cliff, but makes up for it with some fantastic movement.

On Brosses-tu? 5.12c/d 15M/S(6)/Q
D.Caron, A. Manley July 2015
Located on the right end of the lower tier between Toad in the Hole and Rocky Road. Difficult start up a crimpy ramp leads to a slopey horizontal crack and easier climbing to a ledge. From the ledge, engage the crux by using a crimp shared with the neighbouring route Toad - the only shared handhold on the route - and make very tenuous moves up bulges to the anchor. Stick-clipping is very strongly recommended.

Afternoon Delight 5.8 15m/S(8)/R(2)
FA: S. Adamson, J. Adamson August 2015
This route is located on the right most wall of the lower tier. Begin 6m left of the prominent off-width/chimney in a short, left-facing corner below the large horizontal ledge/cave. Climb a short crack to reach a large ledge. Move right on the ledge and head straight up above the stumps. (The 5.8 rating accounts for using the stumps, when these are gone the route may be a bit more difficult.) Move right again on the next ledge and head straight up to the anchors located on a large protuding block at the top of the cliff. For the full-value finish one-arm hang, and chalk up off the protuding block.

The Grate Escrape 5.8+PG 15m/N/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, S. Adamson August 2015
Climb the short offwidth found at the very right end of the lower tier. Continue up the tight chimney until you can exit right onto a ledge. Move up to the next ledge and step back across the chimney and up to the final large ledge with a bolted anchor.

GREENLAW

Danger Zone 5.12b 20m/S(7)/b(2)
FA: F. Côté, E. Côté 2015
Don't let the name scare you off. Climb the bolted line 3m left of Top Gun, beginning slightly left of a large tree. Climb past the tricky overhang to gain the face above.

UTOPIA

Dystopia Wall

Steep As Flake 5.11b 6m/S(4)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P.Adamson. September 2014
Located on the short, steep wall up and left of dystopia wall. Be careful as the slope leading up to this wall is very loose.
The route begins above a dirty slab about 20m left of the access gully. Climb a large, juggy flake to the fourth bolt. Traverse right slightly and finish on a short hand crack. A rare route for NB, very steep and very juggy! The first move may be a bit reachy.

Green 5.12b/c 15m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson October 2014
This route is located between the left facing corner of 'Pink' and the wide black streak of 'Black', below a left-angling crack/seam. Start on heinous crimps just left of where the ground begins to slope uphill. This route requires a variety of techniques on interesting features. Finish at rap anchor located on the large ledge halfway up the cliff.

Black 5.13b 25m/S(15)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson, August 2014
Located on the left side of Dystopia wall. The route begins up a vertical, 10ft wide black streak where the ground begins to slope uphill. Technical face climbing and powerful moves lead to a large ledge. Climb directly over the next bulge to gain another ledge. Right off the ledge are a few juggy blocks that don't look the best, but they don't seem to move. Head through the blocks and up the overhanging headwall to the anchors.

Daily Beating 5.11? 27m/S/R
FA: B. Cruikshank
Locate the obvious black streak that houses the route Black. This climb is the next climb to the right of Black. A tough start leads to a small overhang and fun climbing to the top. It is possible that a hold has broken off at the start, making this climb much harder than the given grade.

Nothing but Knot 5.12b 27m/S(13)/Q
FA: P. Adamson, A. Morgan November 2014
Bolted line right of Daily Beating. Starts with sustained face climbing to a ledge and a rest. Continue past a small overlap to another rest. Move up and right through a final overlap to the top.

Absentee Landlord 5.11a 20m/S(9)/Q
FA: P. Adamson, A. Morgan November 2014
Start 6m right of Nothing but Knot, standing on a small boulder. Fire a few bouldery moves before trending left up a ramp. Clip a long draw on the 4th bolt to reduce rope drag. Move back right onto the face and race the pump to the top!

Kitty Choir 5.11b 20m/S(7)(R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, K. Maillet, J. Adamson April 2014
Located 7m to the left of Feline Flakes, and 3m to the right of the large tree at the base of Dystopia Wall. Climb tricky sequences up past 3 bolts, then go right where the two bolted lines split. Continue up right past two more bolts, then traverse left to rejoin the left bolt line and continue up to anchors.

Vocal Kitty 5.11b 20m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, K. Maillet, P. Adamson April 2014
Shares the same start as Kitty Choir, but at the 3rd bolt go left where the two bolted lines split. Continue up on the left line to the anchors.

Feline Flakes 5.12b 20m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson April 2014
This route is located right where the trail meets Dystopia Wall. Climb up through a wall of stacked undercling flakes leading to the middle of a small roof. Pull over the roof and continue to the anchors.

Chow Meow 5.11d 10m/S(5)/R(2)
FFA: J. Adamson, P.Adamson, S. Wilson. September 2014.
Located 5ft right of the where the trail meets the cliff, where the stacked, left-facing flakes turn back to more solid face. Climb big holds to the large horizontal ledge/roof. Climb through the face above, and finish on good holds. Expect a difficult clip at the crux.

Utopia Wall

Inversion 5.12c 25m/S(13)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson Sep. 2013
From the 2nd bolt of Cat in the Hat break up and right, climbing into a pink corner on the slab. Move out of the corner and onto a short arete. Climb the short arete up into the bottom of a bombay chimney. Follow this chimney to the top, then exit out left over a bulge to the anchors.
Rope drag can be an issue on this route. Long runners and appropriate back cleaning is recommended on this route. A long draw should especially be used on the 11th bolt.

Send Badge 5.13a 30m/S(16)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson July 2016
This route climbs the large, overhanging bombay-chimney/corner just right of the giant fin on Utopia Wall. Begin in the center of the small slab under the large overhanging corner's. Climb past 3 bolts on the slab to reach a short, steeper section. Clip a long draw on the 4th bolt and move left to a corner and roof. Clip the fixed chain draw and pull up and around the large hanging block to gain the start of the corner/chimney section. Move up and right along the chimney until it is possible to exit right onto the face. Continue straight up the face past 5 more bolts to the anchor.

Roast Pastry Dick Erect 5.12a 25m/S(11)/R(2)
FA: P. Adamson, J. Adamson June 2016
This route climbs the face immediately right of the large overhanging section of sunnyvale wall. Start up the slab on the lower right side below the overhang to a sloping ledge. Climb off the sloping ledge then continue straight up into a small corner. Continue to the top. Shares the last few bolts with Roast Pastry Dick.

Roast Pastry Dick 5.12a 25m/S(13)/R(2)
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson June 2016
This routes climbs the face immediately right of the large overhanging section of sunnyvale wall. Start in a shallow corner and make tricky moves up to a sloping ledge. Continue on up the face until it leads you into the base of a large corner. Traverse left back onto the face and finish up sidepulls to the top.
NOTE: The Roast Pastry Dick Original Flavour (12a) can still be done as it was first put up. Climb Roast Pastry Dick Erect to the 5th bolt, then traverse along a jug rail to the right to meet up with Roast Pastry dick at the base of the large corner. Finish as per Roast Pastry Dick. FA was J. Adamson, P. Adamson, E. Samis Sep 2013

You're Breaking Up 5.10b 18m/S(7)/R(2)
FA: E. Sloan, E. Matchett September 2016
Start 3m right of 'Worst Case Ontario' on a hard to read blocky face. Make it to the top of the face and continue past a reachy move to gain a massive and potentially fragile telephone. Head slightly left on good holds to the anchor.


MCQUIRKS MOUNTAIN

The Matrix
This wall is located on the far left hand side of the cliff. Take the approach trail to Main Wall and then keeping walking left along the base of the cliff until you reach The Matrix sign. This slabby wall gets the most sun on the cliff and has some high quality routes with a mixture of crack and face climbing. A very nice shaded belay area makes for a good place to hang out on a sunny day. For all the climbs at The Matrix, when topping out it is recommended to gain the big grassy ledge, build a gear anchor and belay up the second. Descend by rapping off one of the spruce trees left or right. Please don't rap off the Cedar tree.

Oracle 5.7 G 115’ / N / N
FA: G. Hughes, L. Toron, K. McClellan 2015
Located on the far left hand side of the Matrix Wall. The start is down and left of the big ledge where the Matrix wall sign is. Begin on a short low angle slab that leads to an overlap. Pull the overlap and continue up on a gorgeous hand crack that will make you wish it was longer. After gaining a couple of small ledges the route steepens near the top and the crux. Finish up on the big ledge, build a gear anchor on the short headwall above and belay the second. Save a few finger sized pieces for the gear anchor. Rappel off the spruce tree with the rap station.

Follow The White Rabbit 5.5 G 40’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, D. Hamel, S. Bethune 2015
The start is just left of Trinity on a wide ledge. Look for a gorgeous left trending diagonal hand crack. Climb the crack until it runs out finishing at a small tree. You can easily combine this with the top half of The Oracle which makes for a really nice link up.

Morpheus 5.6 G 110’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker, M. Delaney 2014
Look for the clean line on the left hand side of the wall directly below the big spruce tree (third tree on the left) at the top on the climb. The start is on a small ledge down and left of the main ledge that has the massive spruce tree. Climb up through a blocky section to gain a fist crack. Follow this straight up through a series of cracks until you reach a right trending ramp. Continue up the ramp to reach the ledge on top.

Trinity 5.5 G 100’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2014
On the main ledge locate a small cedar tree directly in front of the massive Spruce tree. The climb begins in a crack just left of the Cedar. Climb the up through a series of cracks until you reach a right trending ramp. Continue up the ramp to reach the ledge on top. (this climb shares the same finish as Morpheus)
Note: There is now a direct finish that goes straight up and finishes on the spruce tree to the left. It goes at about 5.8 with small gear.

Mr. Anderson 5.7+ PG 90’ / M (1)/ N
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2014
Look for a twenty foot high slab in the shape of a triangle. Several starts are possible including a low angle ramp on the left. Climb up on top of the triangle to a ledge that will eventually lead to a prominent finger crack. There are two possible cracks close together that could be climbed. Both are awesome. Continue up the crack and top out on the big grassy ledge.

Agent Smith 5.6 PG 90’ / N / T
FA: Josh Shewbridge, Kate Trecartin, Eric Samis 2016
Last line on the right. Slightly run out near the bottom on easy climbing. Top half is quite enjoyable.


The Red Pill 5.5 PG 30’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2014
To access this climb gain the ledge above Mr. Anderson and you will find a short wall with two prominent cracks in the middle. Ascend the vertical crack on the left to the top.

The Blue Pill 5.4 PG 30’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2014
To access this climb gain the ledge above Mr. Anderson and you will find a short wall with two prominent cracks in the middle. Ascend the vertical crack on the right to the top.

The Green Zone
This wall begins about 30 feet right of the Matrix. There is a 4th class scramble with a red coloured fixed rope between the two walls. The Green Zone is currently under development with two routes already established. This wall should have another 3 or 4 good quality lines put up soon.

5.7 in Slippers 5.6 PG 110’ / N / T
FA: J. Sewbridge, M. Heffler 2015
Located on the far left hand side of the wall just right of a mature Spruce tree. An easy start leads up to a tricky little crux with pro at your feet. Continue up through cracks to the top of the block. Follow the fixed line to a tree anchor. Rap to the ground with a 70 meter rope. Not an easy onsight!

Lobster Claw 5.7+ R 100’ N / R (2)
FA: Joe, Dan and Madeline Kennedy 2015
Climbs the direct line just left of Jaws, towards a small spruce tree. The run out section should receive a bolt this season to change the protection to either PG or G.

Jaws 5.7 G 120’ G / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, L. Gallant 2015
Located almost directly in front of the Green Zone sign below a chimney about 40 feet off the deck. Climb up and into the chimney and continue up until you reach a fixed line to a tree anchor.

Incisor 5.8 G 150’ G / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, L. Gallant 2015
Start about ten feet right of the Green Zone sign. Climb straight up aiming for a large tooth shaped block. Move left around the block and continue up to a big ledge and short headwall. Surmount the headwall, gain another big ledge and move right to a tree anchor. Descent options are either scramble down to the rappel tree for Jaws or rap right to the Emerald City anchor and then a second rap will get you back to the ground.

Merlin 5.8 G 150’ G / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, L. Gallant 2015
Locate a massive cedar tree near the base of Up Yours. Several starts are possible directly above this tree, some are easier than others. Climb up to a large Spruce tree about twenty feet off the deck then aim for the right facing corner. Surmount the small overlap (crux), climb the corner and continue on easier terrain to a Spruce tree. Rap the route with a 70 meter rope (stretcher) or scramble to the Up Yours anchor if you only have a 60 m and do two raps.

Up Yours 5.7+ G 170’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, S. Hughes 2012
Pitch 1: 5.6 70’ Start is near the bottom left of a steep vegetated gulley directly above a massive cedar tree. The climb actually starts just left of the X Wall. Look for a prominent feature of rock that resembles an extended middle finger. Several starts are possible. All will lead up toward the finger, through a system of cracks to a small ledge. Build a gear anchor here and belay or you may opt to do the rest in one long pitch.
Pitch 2: 5.7 100’ Continue up on steeper terrain through the crux then reach another small ledge. Continue up trending slightly left from the ledge to a two bolt rap station. One double rope rappel will get you to the ground or you may opt for two raps using the bolted anchor for Emerald City.

X Wall
This wall is just left of center. When standing about 20 meters away from the base you can see a face with two cracks forming an X high on the wall. Below the left side of the X is a large roof. The following routes go from left to right.

Emerald City 5.7 PG 90' / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, D. Hamel, M. Parker 2014
Start is just right of Up Yours and follows the arête onto a crack filled ramp to a 2 bolt rap station. Gear and moves are a bit tricky for the first 25 feet then it becomes very straight forward.

Fifty Mission Cap 5.10c G 120' / M (1) / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2013
Scramble up a steep mossy gulley to a corner leading to a big roof. Belay near the base of a double stump. Climb to the roof, exiting left and get on top of the cap. Continue up the long corner crack system and when possible traverse right to clip a bolt. Keep moving right until you gain another vertical crack system leading to the top. Watch out for rope drag.

Salad Fingers 5.10c 170' / M (1) / R
FA: G. Hughes, D. Hamel, M. Parker 2014
To access this route you need to climb Emerald City. From the belay station continue up the ramp until it joins the corner crack that is 50 Mission Cap. Head up through the corner moving right to clip a bolt after the crack disappears. From the bolt follow a long, right diagonal finger crack that leads to a ledge. Gain the ledge, build a gear anchor and belay up the second then continue to the top.

Magic X 5.9 G 140' / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, S. Hughes 2011
Pitch 1: 5.9 Start on a crack riddled slab below a large spruce tree that has the sign "X Wall" on it. Climb up to the tree and then move slightly left through a slab feature to a corner crack system. Climb the crack to a perfect belay ledge and bolt anchor. 110 feet
Pitch 2: 5.8 This pitch eats gear and follows the left leaning hand/fist crack that straightens and narrows to fingers near the top. 70 feet

Fake Right – Go Left 5.10 G 110’ / N / R
FA: S. Bethune, D. Hamel, G. Hughes 2014
Start on a crack riddled slab below a large spruce tree that has the sign "X Wall" on it. Climb up to the tree. Continue straight up behind the tree on lower angle rock in the shallow right facing corner slightly to the right of Magic X. Climb steep cracks and flakes aiming for an obvious wide crack that slants to the right. Gain the narrow buttress above and follow a crack along the left edge. Exciting climbing up the crack and a few face moves leads to the Magic X anchor. Beautiful climbing, excellent gear and thrilling exposure. A #4 or #5 will allow for higher gear placements in the wide crack but is not necessary. A 70 meter rope is needed to get you back to your packs.

Biomechanics 5.7 G 100’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, P. Arsenault 2014
Located directly above Fake Right Go Left. From the pitch one Magic X belay station head straight up on cracks and ledges to the top of the cliff.

Anatomy Lesson 5.7 PG 80’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2013
You must climb the first pitch of The Magic X or Dance Platform to access this climb. From the belay ledge of Magic X step up and slightly right into another stellar crack system or from the top of The Dance Platform step up and left. Follow the crack up and then right through a groove. When it branches off, stay on the left crack that leads to a short slab. This will take you to the top of the cliff. There is a slight run out near the top. Other than that the protection is very good.

Dance Platform 5.9 G 70’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2013
Same start as Magic X but step right toward the big dihedral. Climb a crack system to a large flat ledge. Easy climbing other than one or two harder moves at the crux.
5.7 Variation: start left of the dihedral and then continue through the right diagonal crack to get on top of the block and in the v shaped groove. Once on top of the block continue to the Dance Platform ledge by going straight up rather than around to the left. Climbed this way it is a completely different line arriving at the same point.

Harvest 5.10a G 120’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Fisher 2013
Same start as Dance Platform but move right after 20 feet up into a series of overhanging flakes that follow the left side of the arête until it blends into the wall above. Continue up on cracks staying just left of The Crack Machine. Wild, exposed climbing on some very cool features.

Main Wall

Octopus Ink 5.8 PG 180’ / N / T
FA: M. Parker, G. Hughes 2013
Pitch 1: This route starts on the right hand side of X Wall and crosses over the arête to the Main Wall. Begin 10 feet right of the Dance Platform starting near a stump and climb the arête(several starts are possible). Cross over the arête, step up and right to the bolt anchor for Crack Machine and belay. There is good gear but you have to look for it! 5.8 80 feet
Pitch 2: The money pitch. Move up through a niche into the right trending finger and hand crack that leads to the top of the right half of the cliff. 5.6 100 feet

The Crack Machine 5.9+ G 170' / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, Terry Melanson, Adam Morgan 2012
Pitch 1: Start down and right from the X Wall near the very bottom of the long high angle slab. From the left edge of the wall gain a short right trending ramp that leads to a ledge. From here ascend a series of cracks that follow the left side of the face to a small ledge and bolt anchor.
Pitch 2: Step left and move up toward a pair of handcracks.
Continue up to a ledge and bolted rap station or continue to the top. Brilliant position and stellar jamming.

Blackfly 5.9+ PG 100’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, A. Morgan 2012
Start down and right of Crack Machine below a series of vertical cracks that lead to a face. Climb up the wide crack to a ledge and then continue up the face to a right trending ramp. Follow the ramp to a small ledge and bolt anchor.

Blackcrack 5.9+ PG 100’ / N / R
FA: M. Fisher, M. Parker 2013
Start down and right of Crack Machine below a series of vertical cracks that lead to a face. Climb up the wide crack to a ledge and then continue up the face. Instead of going up the right trending ramp step slightly left and join the upper half of the first pitch of Crack Machine. Technical, sustained climbing at the grade with great gear.

Neutral Tribe 5.9 G 190’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2013
Pitch 1: Start is near the center of the wall just left of the big pine tree in a finger crack that leads up to an overlap. From the overlap climb the beautiful hand crack to the same bolted anchor as Blackfly and belay. 100 feet
Pitch 2: Continue up and slightly right through a crack system then aim for the big pine tree at the top. 100 feet

Zen 5.9 G 90’ / N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker, M. Delaney 2013
From the top of the first pitch of Neutral Tribe head straight up on gorgeous face climbing joining the final 40 feet of Neutral Tribe. The pro is not readily apparent from the bottom of the route but it is all there.

Scars and Stripes 5.11d G 100’ / N / R
FA: W. Jones 2015
Start in a crack system in front of the mature Pine Tree near the middle of the wall. Climb the cracks to an overlap. Move up to a very thin finger crack that eventually disappears and joins the last 10 feet of Neutral Tribe.

The Nose 5.8+ PG 180’ / M (1) / T
FA: M. Parker, G. Hughes 2013
Pitch 1: Start in a crack system in front of the mature Pine Tree near the middle of the wall. Climb the cracks to a small overlap. Move up through the overlap and traverse right a few feet then up toward a bolt. Clip the bolt and continue up toward a roof. You can either pull the roof or move left around it. Continue up onto the ledge and belay. 5.8+ 90 feet
Pitch 2: At the left end of the tree ledge continue up on a system of cracks and ledges to the top. 5.5 90 feet

Combat Math 5.11a PG 100’ / N / R
FA: M. Parker, G. Hughes, S. Bethune 2014
Start down and right of the White Pine tree near a big v shaped groove on the slab. Climb the groove (or cracks just left) to the arch. Make difficult moves to get on top of the next slab and continue up sustained technical face climbing to finish on the tree ledge. A tough onsight and mental testpiece.

The Hall Way 5.10c G 100’ / M (2) / R
FA: S. Bethune, D. Hamel, G. Hughes 2014
Remembering our friend Cory. Climb the slab in between Combat Math and Trolley Tracks past a bolt to the overlap. Clip another bolt and pull the overlap to the next slab moving up and a bit left with discontinuous cracks for gear. A few steeper face moves gets you into a very shallow flaring chimney (the hallway). Stem through this and up to a short left facing corner. Exit the corner onto the ledge on the right and continue up easy cracks to the big tree ledge and the anchor. Double or triple up on cams from purple to yellow tcu size. Technical climbing and gear. A safe but challenging lead. Three alternate finishes are possible and all are great climbing.
Iron Cross finish – At 2/3rd’s height just after entering the hallway break right and climb the obvious overhanging finger to wide hand crack. Climb the crack only (5.11c) or the crack and left arête (5.10).
Boulder finish – At the top of the short left facing corner continue straight up the crack and overhanging face (V2).
Left finish – The left part of “the boulder” 2m left of the crack. Hard to protect well but a fun TR (V1).

Trolley Tracks 5.11a PG 100’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2014
Located 10 feet right of the big v shaped groove on the slab. Look for twin finger cracks about a foot apart. From here the line goes straight up to the top of the tree ledge. Climb cracks/slab to the arch. Move over the arch and up to the next slab. Climb a tricky overlap which leads to a steep vertical hand crack. Follow the crack to the top of the ledge. There are a couple of run outs on marginal gear. Some might consider this climb R.

Boogers 5.9+ PG 110' M (1) /R
FA: P. Adamson, E. Samis 2014
Climb boogers into the nose. This line follows the obvious corner that diagonals across the long arching roof on the lower part of main wall. Same start as Nightbird. Finish straight up the nose after the end of the corner.

Nightbird 5.6 G 100’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2013
Start on the far right end of Main Wall below the right end of a big long arch. Climb up to the arch and ascend the corner crack. Continue straight up then move right around a long detached block finishing on the right side of the big tree ledge above.

Nightbird Direct 5.7 G 100’ / N / R
FA: E. Samis, S. Jones, K. Trecartin 2014
Same as Nightbird but follow a plumb line to the tree ledge instead of moving right around the detached block about 3/4 of the way up.

New Crack City
This wall is located on a tree ledge about 100 feet off the deck on the right side of the main wall above a long sweeping arch. As indicated in the name the wall is littered with cracks.

Take Me To Your Leader 5.6 G 100’ N / T
FA: M. Parker, G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2013
From the ledge climb up through an easy but fun crack system to the top of the cliff. 5.6 100 feet

Five Easy Pieces 5.5 G 100’ N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Parker 2013
Ten feet right of the bolted rap station follow another easy great crack to the top of the cliff.

Steve French 5.7 G 100’ N / T
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney, M. Parker 2013
Locate a steep finger crack near the right end of the tree ledge. Follow the crack until it merges with After Midnight.

After Midnight 5.6 G 100’ N / T
FA: M. Delaney, M. Parker, G. Hughes 2013
Traverse right off the tree ledge to a hand and fist crack that leads to the top of the cliff. Splendid jamming. Double up on #1 through #3 camalots or run it out.

One Night in Copenhagen 5.6 G 100' / N / R
FA: M. Delaney, G. Hughes 2014
Climb I’m Too Drunk to reach this climb. From the Too Drunk anchor head up to a short steep crack that angles back after about 20 feet. Follow the cracks to the top. Double up on #1 through #3 camalots or run it out.

Five Guys Named Moe Wall
Located on the far right hand side of the cliff this slabby wall is broad and heavily featured with cracks, ledges and jugs. This makes the climbing generally quite easy with many possible variations on the five established lines. The routes start just right of the big Yellow Birch tree found at the base of the Main Wall arch.

I'm Too Drunk for This 5.5 PG 100' / N / R
FA: M. Delaney, G. Hughes 2014
The start is down and slightly right of the big birch. Climb up some very pleasant cracks and jugs to a two bolt anchor and small ledge. From here either continue straight up (After Midnight) or rap. Generally good gear but one or two slight run outs make this climb PG.

What’s the Use in Getting Sober 5.6 PG 220’ N / R
FA: G. Hughes, M. Delaney 2016
Pitch 1: Start five feet right of Too Drunk. Look for a Spruce tree growing out of the wall at about 75’ and take the line below the tree. Climb up to the tree and pass it on the left side. Build a gear anchor somewhere above the tree.
Pitch 2: Continue up aiming for the right side of the upper slab. When the wall steepens look for a pin. Clip the pin and go either slightly right (harder) or directly above the pin to a finger crack. Follow the crack which leads to a series of pockets and then wider cracks to the top.

Big Moe 5.7 PG 230’ / N / R
FA: Mike and Melissa Parker 2016
Pitch 1: Climb the line that will take you just right of the spruce tree located about 75 off the deck. Climb past the tree on the right and then build an anchor somewhere on one of the many ledges. 5.7 PG 90’
Pitch 2: Continue up on easier terrain aiming for the left side of the tree ledge. 5.4 G 80’
Pitch 3: Locate a very nice crack on the wall to the left of the corner. This leads to a low angled slab and the top of the cliff. 5.7 G 60’

Four Eyed Moe 5.5 G 235’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes, D. Hamel, S. Bethune 2016
Pitch 1: Start just left of the middle of the wall aiming for a Spruce tree about 5 feet to the right of the corner. Climb through a series of cracks, pockets and juggy pinches to a nice ledge with a two bolt rap station. 5.5 G 90’
Pitch 2: Continue up on a series of ledges that look remarkable like stairs until you reach the ledge. Belay off one of the trees. 5.4 G 85’
Pitch 3: Continue up the back wall of the tree ledge through a series of pockets and cracks to the top of the cliff. 5.5 PG 60’

Eat Moe 5.9 PG 175’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes and D. Hamel 2016
Pitch 1: Start just right of the middle of the wall near a couple of large tree roots. Climb up to the corner of a large sloping ledge and two bolt rap station. 5.5 G 90’
Pitch 2: Move back to the corner and climb a series of cracks to the crux not far off the ledge. There is gear to protect the crux but it is not very inspiring. Continue straight up encountering one more tricky run out section before arriving at the ledge. 5.9 PG 85’


Let The Good Times Roll 5.7 PG 90’ / N / R
FA: G. Hughes and J. Kennedy 2016
Start on the second stump right of Eat Moe. Follow a discontinuous finger sized crack angling slightly right. Finicky, uninspiring gear for the first 40 feet.

Ain’t Nobody Here But Us Chickens 5.8 PG 90’ / M (1)/ R
FA: G. Hughes and J. Kennedy 2016
Start just right of Let The Good Times Roll on a ten foot wide blank face directly below a bolt. Unlock a sequence to get to the bolt (one small piece of gear between the bolt and the ground) then continue up into a series of cracks and pockets to the top.

Life Is So Peculiar 5.8 PG 90’ / M (1)/ R
FA: G. Hughes and J. Kennedy 2016
Start on the right side of the blank face below the last bolt on the right. Climb up to the pocket below the bolt then continue up into a series of cracks and pockets to the top.

Little Moe 5.7 PG 165’ / N / R
FA: Mike, Melissa and Lily Parker 2016
Pitch 1: On the far right hand side of the wall, climb a line of high quality granite beside the large Yellow Birch tree to a stance halfway up the wall and belay at a bolted rap station. 5.5 PG 80’
Pitch 2: Continue up on the cleanest line on the right side of the wall to the top. 5.6 PG 85’

No Moe 5.6 G 80’ / N / R
FA: Mike, Melissa and Lily Parker 2016
Last line on the far right hand side of the wall. Climb up to a stance halfway up the wall and belay at a bolted rap station.


LONG LAKE

Long Lake is a small, short cliff well off the beaten path with a couple fun routes, and a few more yet to be climbed. Most of the routes are around 20-50ft in height. Rock quality varies but there are some high-quality sections. It is not a must-visit crag, but does offer somewhere to climb if you are looking for something different. Approach is via an old logging road and 4wd is mandatory. Enter a sand pit off route 785, approx. 5km north of the intersection between routes 785 and 780. Follow the main logging road for approx. 4.5km until a severe dip takes you past Long Lake. Continue driving on the logging road approx. 1.0km past the lake, until it is possible to park at the point where the road begins going back uphill. Bushwack into the cliff, located approx. 350m NW of the road.

Wish I Had Climbing Shoes 5.8 10m/TR/T
FA: J. Adamson, P. Adamson, S. Adamson June 2016
Near the left end of the cliff is a sloping section of ground covered in knee high plants and grass. Walk down this slope until the ground flattens out again. This is where the climb begins. Make a tricky moves off the ground to gain a shallow dihedral. Climb the dihedral to a ledge, and then finish up on a short slab to a tree. Climb Father's Day Special to set up a toprope on this route.

Father's Day Special 5.6 15m/N/T
FA: S. Adamson, J. Adamson, P. Adamson June 2016
Near the left end of the cliff is a sloping section of ground covered in knee high plants and grass. Halfway down this slope is an obvious vertical crack set back in a shallow recess. Climb up this crack to a ledge. Once on the ledge, traverse left until you can make an anchor at a tree (The same tree as Wish I Had Climbing Shoes).

Extrication 5.10 10m/N/T
FA: J. Adamson, S. Adamson, P. Adamson June 2016
Near the left end of the cliff is a sloping section of ground covered in knee high plants and grass. Just before this sloping section is an obvious overhanging 3" crack in front of a large tree. Layback and jam up the crack to a ledge. Continue up on to the top of a block and to a tree.

GONDOLA POINT

Slam Piece 5.13D 7m/S(2)/T
FA: S. Pacey-Smith, T. Smith 2016
Formely listed as a project. This route climbs the overhanging face just left of The R-word at the right end of the cliff. Pull the roof and enter the tricky crux sequence, including a very unique and fun cut-loose move off a heinous slopey gaston, to gain better holds separated by big moves to the anchor. Partly named for the potential ground fall/belayer collision when falling from the crux, it is recommended to hang an extra extended draw from the second bolt. Optional slung tree branch as 3rd piece of pro.