Space Invaders and Top Gun at Greenlaw

[Dom]

So I climbed Space Invaders for the first time at Greenlaw yesterday. I had heard that the 12b grade was contrived and I agree. Why would you not use the jugs if they are close to the bolts. Anyways, Those that have climbed, what do you think the grade should be? I'd say 5.11a? Just want to get a consensus as the next guidebook edition should reflect the non-contrived grade IMO.

Also, hopped on Top Gun. That move between the 3rd and 4 bolts is hard! I think it's only seen three ascents (John Bowles and PJ, Jon Adamson) Anyone else? Anyways, did you guys go left after the 3rd bolt or right up underneath where Adam trundled a block and it left rockfall residue with small crimps. Cool route and I'll be back for the send (hopefully hehe)

If you plan on going to Greenlaw in the upcoming weeks, rubber boots are recommended!

[PeterA]

I would agree with a grade of 11ish for space invaders

As for top gun, I couldn't say. The route that Jon and I thought was top gun was actually grand theft project.

-PJ

[Adam]

yeah i think i gave space invaders 11b since i used the jugs

[Fred]

I think I had my horse blinders on that day.

[john]

I don't think anyone has repeated or tried top gun much. For me it is a bit harder then grand theft but it was soaked when I did it and I recall going straight up on crimps, grand theft it much better

[Dom]

Cool, ya I sent Grand Theft in April. The start is very sequency and nice. I think Top Gun has a harder crux for sure.

[Adam]

there is room for one more route btw these two lines, and it looks awesome. just gonna take a lot of cleaning.

[PeterA]

Jumped on Top Gun this weekend. I ended up traversing right at the 3rd bolt, going straight up, then cutting back left to the 4th bolt. Super fun climbing, but the bolts are in weird spots unfortunately. I found that I had to hang a long draw on the 4th bolt so I could clip it from lower, rather than go through my sequence with only the 3rd clipped

-PJ

[Dom]

Jumped on Top Gun this weekend. I ended up traversing right at the 3rd bolt, going straight up, then cutting back left to the 4th bolt. Super fun climbing, but the bolts are in weird spots unfortunately. I found that I had to hang a long draw on the 4th bolt so I could clip it from lower, rather than go through my sequence with only the 3rd clipped

-PJ

We were in Greenlaw today.
I agree with PJ that the bolts (especially the 3rd bolt) is in a weird spot. I'd move it right.

Adam/John are you guys against this bolt modification? No bolts would be added, just the 3rd one moved.
let me know, and I can do the modification next time I'm there. I can even scrub the very dirty top part too.

[Adam]

Adam/John are you guys against this bolt modification? No bolts would be added, just the 3rd one moved.
let me know, and I can do the modification next time I'm there. I can even scrub the very dirty top part too.

totally fine with me.

[Dom]

I fixed the 3rd bolt on Top Gun on Saturday. Climbs nice and super safe now.

Space Invader's big hardwood tree has to go. It's definitely in the way as Sonia nailed it on Saturday. Chainsaw anyone?

[john]

maybe the climb should go not the 50 year old tree?

if you lead it you wont hit it
isnt it on private land
there are lots of trees you hit if you dont protect a tr or a seconds swing

[*Chris*]

maybe the climb should go not the 50 year old tree?

if you lead it you wont hit it
isnt it on private land
there are lots of trees you hit if you dont protect a tr or a seconds swing

Actually, the leader fell while committing to get into the crux. She bounced her back off the tree while falling. Strait down... no swing. It was nasty. I'd suggest not dismissing it if you weren't actually there to see it.

The crag is privately owned. However given the selective logging that's occurred adjacent to the cliff I expect that they are not oversensitive about it. I think the best approach would be to contact and ask for permission.

[Adam]

The crag is privately owned. However given the selective logging that's occurred adjacent to the cliff I expect that they are not oversensitive about it. I think the best approach would be to contact and ask for permission.

if that one goes... would love to see the one by Scurvy go.... tho it is even bigger and prob older... and would be a hell of a clean up. but dang there's a nice line waiting behind it!