Stoners climbing report 14th May

[Stevo]

The day started cold and grey but turned out nice at Main Face. The team of new Steve, Alex and myself logged ascents of the excellent No Purchase and Enchantment, plus an unsuccessful first attempt at a new project, but it will go to provide a gobsmacking and testing line. Peter and Thom, what news?

Cheers
Steve

[tracstarr]

well, the mitt, conan and i just got back. spent the day developing. Two routes cleaned and one bolted... full sport it'll go at 5.8ish. 6 bolts and rap anchors - but leave it for the mitt. it's his project and didn't get to lead it as the last bolt went in at like 7 pm. The other one, not bolted yet, will be another full sport that'll go 5.11 ish. 9 bolts. 3 cruxes. fun time. now, time to pass out.

[Scooter]

niceeeeeee full sport!
cant wait to get out and try these

[peter]

Led a new route (new for me and Thom), right of the Sleeper rappel; can't remember the name; 5.8ish.

Cleaned on lead and climbed a more direct variation on Oscar, but (again) got spanked on the crux, leaving a now-permanent wire, due to multiple falls on it.

How the hell does one pull over the crux? The route is 5.9+, and I have climbed and led harder, but couldn't find anything for (1) my left foot; or (2) a non-flaring crack above the crux.

Frustrating to look at the final move and exit for an hour, not to finish it! The holds above the crux require cleaning, as the cracks are filling in with dirt and fine particle organic material, making them rather shallow and slick. I actually had to use chalk (say it isn't so!), given the moisture in the holds.

Climbed out "Itchy and Scratchy" instead, now a nice leisurely climb due to repetition. Did you know it can be climbed with only three gear placements? Proves it is a Punshon route.

I am away next weekend, but Thom is around.

P.

[Stevo]

Hey Peter,

What is the booty, I'd go back there for a Rock or Wallnut in decent nick.

A couple of corrections, Itchy was Cassidys brainchild. I think I only used 2 of the gear placements last time, perhaps we should see who can whittle their way to a solo!

Also, I think the author went too far in upgrading Oskar from the traditional 5.9 and I will have to berate him on this point. 5.9+ is a peculiar grade which in my opinion can only be applied to a route which has a poorly protected 5.10 move. I might humbly suggest that my route "Grim up North" just right of Oskar quite well defines its 5.9+ grade. We can argue about the exact technical grade of Oskar, but I recall a cunning leader can arrange above-the-head protection for every move, thus making it a top rope route

Cheers
Steve

[peter]

It is a five year old BD nut. In other words, quite a step up for your rack.

It is not the grade or gear that concerned me, but the genetic modification needed to pull through the crux.

[Stevo]

Five years old is far too new. I would have to take a file to the sharp edges and pound the swaged wire strands with a hammer in order to align the molecules with the earths magnetic field, so I'll pass on that one.

Newbie Steve cruised Oskar, his first route on real rock, so I'm afraid that (a) you were having a rather bad day, or (b) your bodily proportions (ahem) deviate somewhat from the norm.

Cheers
Stevo

[peter]

Well, perhaps it is because one year ago he was exactly half my age?