Climb Eastern Canada

by **Fred** » Wed May 11, 2005 11:58 am

does anyone have any info on Camden Maine? I just found out about it on http://www.nerock.com

Also, does anyone know where Shagg Pond and Square Dock are located?

cheers

by **Pierre** » Wed May 11, 2005 12:34 pm

Hey Fred!

I think Shagg Pond is in WoodStock Maine.... and I think Shadow Dock mountain is near Albany, Maine...

by **Fred** » Wed May 11, 2005 1:08 pm

sweet! have you ever heard about those places for climbing?

by **Pierre** » Wed May 11, 2005 2:04 pm

Hey Fred,

I think Shagg Crag ( Shagg Pond ) is sport climbing crag.. It's actual closer to Bethel, Maine but still close to Woodstock, Maine...

The book "Rock Climbing New England" written by Stewart M. Green has some beta of Shag Crag..

rockclimbing.com has some beta on the routes of
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/listArea.php?AreaID=3443

I do know one thing it's a place that's beyond my abilities..

by **zig** » Wed May 11, 2005 8:56 pm

I've been to Campden, ME to climb like 10 yrs ago. It's ok, all sport, and granite. There was a topo printed in an old rock&ice in the early 90s. That's what we used when we went. Mitch, J-M, Jones, Yves, and I.
mot a ta mere, t'entend!
zig

by **Fred** » Thu May 12, 2005 7:47 am

j'entend!

but how good is it? worth the drive? steep? crimpy? face climbing?

by **Shawn B** » Thu May 12, 2005 9:57 am

Shagg Crag is in western Maine. Mostly steep overhanging routes and hard grades. Camden in no way compares to Acadia. 4 or 5 years ago, all bolts were chopped there and not sure if they were replaced. I'd recommend Acadia or Clifton. If you want slightly overhanging cripmy routes in the 11 and 12 range, Fletchers outside of Clifton is the good. Probably 100 degrees on mostly square cut crimps...not the crystal pinching of Eagle nor the slabs of Big Chick. Big Chick has got some nice routes in the 9, 10 and easy 11 range. Can be run out as Clifton standards go tho. But again, Bar Harbour is the best. I think the rock is nicer even than North Conway...just not quite as much or as high.

by **Fred** » Thu May 12, 2005 12:04 pm

I think we are hitting Bar Harbour (Precipice) on Saturday. I've been there before and it rocks. Old Town is probably one of the nicest climbs I've been on. I think we are stopping in Clifton on the way back. I'll have to check out Fletcher.

Shawn,

what was that 5.9 sport route called again? "Eagles Gift" ? Was that at Eagles Bluff?

by **justin** » Thu May 12, 2005 3:48 pm

For sure Fred stop into Cliffton on your way back through man, Jeremy, Paul , and I are headed down tomorrow evening and stayin till Sun. sometime.

by **Fred** » Thu May 12, 2005 4:07 pm

wicked dude

we'll be camping out tomorrow night at Eagles bluff and again on Saturday. I figure we'll leave the tent there for the day then just go down to Bar Harbour on Saturday for a day trip and then back to Clifton

see you then

by **justin** » Thu May 12, 2005 7:39 pm

cool we should be there roughly about 6:00 my time, gotta get a few runs up practice wall tomorrow nite

by **Fred** » Thu May 12, 2005 10:10 pm

see ya then

lets hope the weather holds up

by **Fred** » Fri May 13, 2005 8:17 am

I was talking to they who wrote the guidebook for Camden and he said they did have a bolt chopping episode but everything has been replaced except for two sport routes which were left as topropes.

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