Grandpa's Demise

[Dom]

Did something break on the initial moves? That was the crux for sure, yet it says 5.9 for the first pitch in the guidebook and 5.10a for the 2nd pitch?
Climbed it in one pitch and didn't have any issues with drag. It makes for a nice long pitch!
The 2nd part is awesome, the 1st not so much hehe!

[STeveA]

The first pitch was more scarry than hard, especially as the first bolt was placed well after the first few ascents. A large block at the bottom has fallen since the first ascent, however I don't think it affects the grade. However, it is possible than something else could have come off.

[Dom]

Yup that would be really scary without the first bolt. Glad it's there.
I wonder how many people have climbed this route in the last 5 years?
Not only is the climbing superb on the upper face, but the view is magical up there. I'm pretty sure it brings you to the tallest 'climbing' point in Cochrane Lane.

Siren Song a very long, rarely repeated 5.8 G also ends on the GD anchor. I think such a nice moderate route deserves more traffic!

[motanb]

Grandpa's is definitely a classic! Seems like it doesn't receive as much traffic as it warrants. Perhaps b/c it is a wee bit run-out on the upper section;) And yes, the initial moves off the deck are spicy and technical for 5.9. Like Steve says, there was rock exfoliation which changed the character significantly at the beginning. So in its current state, those moves are likely 10b-ish?

I've definitely climbed Grandpa's within the last five years; when I was cleaning and bolting "Let Freedom Ring" (another must do), I couldn't resist revisiting Grandpa's. Although the gear is good and bolts where ya need 'em, I find the climb to be psychologically demanding, and consequently all the more satisfying to send!