Ain't no Gebronie

[Dom]

Touching this bologna.

The 5.9 on Upper Dawn wall. Anyways, it says PG in the guidebook but it's definitely R. The first piece (a bolt) is at 10', the second piece is at 25'-30' and is not great. The R part is pretty much the crux of it. The rest is PG.

So 5.9 climbers, I'd avoid it.
It climbs really nice though with cool incut granite plates and dishes.

Good lead Luc!

[coryhal]

yup probably more r than most of the r routes in cl, soo good tho ive probably done it a dozen times

[Stacey]

sounds like another PRO to a new/current guidebook

[Shawn B]

Is this the arete that starts above the dike route? Who put the route up? And why do FA's put up routes like this? If the route is as nice as everyone thinks do a proper job bolting the route or place NO bolts if you want it as a death route...er...testpiece. Since I haven't climbed it I can't comment from experience but taking others' descriptions, placing one bolt at 10 feet and then 20 feet to the next marginal gear makes no sense. With a bolt at 10 feet you are looking at groundfall when your feet are 30cms above the bolt. If the route is as nice as everyone says sounds like a candidate for a retro. Shame to have a good route go unclimbed. I'm not talking bolts every 3 feet either...just keep the climber off the deck...esp thru the crux. Take a look at Mantlepiece...a wonderful route that has prob seen more ascents in the past month than in its 15 previous years of existence.

[Dom]

do a proper job bolting the route or place NO bolts if you want it as a death route

I agree, especially for rap-bolted routes which I presume was the case for this one.

Take a look at Mantlepiece...a wonderful route that has prob seen more ascents in the past month than in its 15 previous years of existence.

At least 10-15 ascents just last Sunday

[PeterA]

Definitely no need to rebolt this one. Bolt protects the hard moves, the rock is solid, its' certainly not x-rated. The protection constitutes 63% of the fun on this route. Super fun route, as is

-PJ

[Adam]

Grid bolt that flowers.